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Very cool! I agree with down-shift - awesome how you are using so any LR parts. Very interested in how this works out.
 

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You are going to get lost in the minutia of this project. I applaud your efforts though. Good luck. (Is it time to start taking side bets on if this gets finished?)
IDK - the kid seems to have done his research, has experience with these Bimmer engines and has gotten a lot of big things done already. I'd wager he'll have his done way before my OM617 fires up (although that is not saying much).

Andrew - definitely don't discount what some people have said. There is certainly a solid KB on this board. I have had concrete plans with my build change after rethinking what others have said. But on the flip side - I have done some things that people have said "why??" to and been perfectly happy with the results. Keep it rolling and posting - this is one of the more interesting builds on here in a while.
 

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I got a RR P38 steering box so I can use the M54's original power steering pump and keep that and the alternator in their original positions. Special thanks to Robert Davis for helping me with this decision.

Very cool. Can't wait to see this installed.

Robert Davis = Wizard
 

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When I was peeling off the undercoating I uncovered a hole in my old one. I decided the simplest solution was to just get another one. It came from a 95 Disco. Based on the parts catalogue it's exactly the same, well the same as the one on a 97 Defender since it has ABS sensors. Do you know if they sell blanking plugs for those? It has a 3 bolt diff flange on it so I'll just need to put a 4 bolt flange on it. I found this nice little tutorial on how to do it. :) Here's a pic of the hole. I'll sell it for $150. Local pickup only. I'll put it in the classifieds after I get it out from under the chassis.
Haha - I was just messing with you on the selfie shot. That dude in the back looks stoked!

You could just weld on a sewer cap on the old axle. Are you going thru it before installing?

Gaplin's ABS plugs are slick. I still need to install the set I got - I am using Disco axles as well on my build (but with Toyota 3rd members)
 

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I didn't want to try welding on it. The metal is so thin there that my friend's welder would just burn through. So that's why I just got another one. I don't really want to open up the replacement diff. Hopefully it's all good. I'll put some Amsoil Severe Gear in it. I'd love a set of those ABS plugs. :)
Yeah, that Disco axle should be fine - throw some good oil in there like you said. Looks like you have plenty of other stuff to work on!

And the sewer caps should be big enough to go to the thick metal. Unless that is corroded out? Those stock diff covers are thin so not surprised they get roached. Was just throwing the sewer cap as an option if you wanted to keep it as a back up.
 

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To be clear, the metal is plenty thick on the housing. You cut off the dome portion of the cap and replace the whole thing with a sewer cap end. But you have another axle now, so I guess no worries. I'll print up some plugs for you tonight or tomorrow. Will just need an address to ship them to. Don, stick yours in to make sure mine aren't unique in some way before I print up another set. I'd put a little grease on the o-rings before inserting.
Lol - Thoughts of you welding a front diff cover at Rausch some years ago in the dirt just before going into the trails just popped into my mind. Thinking it was Huf's yellow NAS?

Will try later tonight if I can on the plugs - I've been meaning to. At the ER with one of the kids then off to lax tourney with another later today. These damn kids get in the way with wrench time, haha.
 

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I was ordering some wiring parts from Mouser, so I decided to order the connectors for the NAS lights too. I wasn't sure if they are Econoseal III or Econoseal J, but since the replacement connectors the LR vendors sell have the yellow lock plate I decided they are Econoseal J. Although I'm sure either will probably work fine since they're both 070 series.

So here's the info I came up with:

Econoseal J [MarkII(+)] 070 series connectors for front and rear NAS lights.
Light sockets: 2 pin = XBP100180. 3 pin = XBP100180.
2-pin = Turn signals (F+R) and reverse lights. Connector housing TE part # 174352-2. Yellow lock plate: 174353-7.
3-pin = Tail/Stop lights. Connector housing TE part # 174357-2. Yellow lock plate: 174358-7.
Wire = 0.75–1.00 mm2 (18–17 AWG). Contact part # 171662 (cut strip) or 173707-1 (loose piece). Wire seal = 172888-2 (style C) or 176886-2 (style D).

I ordered the style C wire seal because it was cheaper. It doesn't look like there's much of a difference between them. Probably doesn’t matter. The catalog lists both for that contact.

Came out to about $3 per light.

I think the NAS lights are Econoseal III. I ordered both and the Econoseal J's will work but they are a little different. AMP Econoseal III's are used in a bunch of other areas too like the speed sender off the T-Case.

This is the place I found the Econoseal III pieces: Connector Kits
 

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They got here. They are nice little connectors. I looked in my receipts and I did buy an Econoseal III connector for the speed transducer. When I find it in my pile of parts I'll try plugging each in and see which works better. I think they'll fit the same though. The dimensions are the same according to the data sheet.
Let us know - I remember them being a little off but still worked. Could be slight variations from suppliers as well.
 

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My headers arrived today. :) $60 shipped from the UK. :) The US M52 headers can't be used because they have holes in them for secondary air injection which the M54 headers don't have. I just test fitted them and they fit great. :)
So these headers are UK/Euro spec M52?

How do the insides look? Any plans for porting &polishing?

And are you going custom DPs or have you found LR parts that will work?
 

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DP's = downpipes

Wondering how you are going to match the 2 header to the rest of the 90 exhaust.

They look great installed btw!
 

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This is one of the best projects on this whole site in terms of ambition, originality, and quality of execution.
Yeah the Econseal III vs J is a great example. J works but isn't factory fit like III.

He makes the tech stuff easy to read as well. Great posts and documentation!
 

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I’ve been trying to decide how to go about painting all the new body panels. I was planning on taking them all down to have them painted individually, but that’s kind of awkward and there’s the risk they could get scratched transporting and installing them. So I’m going to paint the insides of them myself and then put them on the truck. Then the paint guy can just paint the whole outside of the truck. I was going to leave the galv cappings bare, but this way those will just get painted over too. That’s how Land Rover did it. So tomorrow I'm going down to the paint store to have them mix me up some Glasurit 22 into spray cans. Since the whole truck is getting painted I could do a color change too, but I think it should stay something close, so I’ve decided on Monza Red. I think it pops a little more than Portofino. :)
Sounds like a very good plan.

I think the change to Monza Red is a good move - something different but not too different which is smart for an NAS truck.

And I would normally say not to paint the galvy cappings but that's how they did it on NAS trucks. They will last forever now that they are galvanized (great move btw).

I would say the paint guy would love having you do the tedious work painting the insides and hanging panels. I painted my inner panels black when I had them off so if I ever do paint my truck I won't have to take it all down. And seeing your work so far you will probably get them much better aligned too!
 
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