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Discussion Starter #1
I'm too tickled with this little project to keep it to myself...

Most of you guys are familiar with the woes of dissimilar metals across these trucks -- most notably in the doors, but even more troublesome is the heavy corrosion we're seeing across the tubs of most ROW trucks coming in. In most cases the correct fix is replacing the floor in its entirety, but it's not really a total solution as you're fastening steel ribs right back to the aluminum floor.

So we started kicking around the idea of fabricating the steel ribs out of aluminum. But then the thin gauge, easily dented/thrashed floor came into question as well, so why not go all out? The end result is a continuous, one-piece (compared to 5 on a standard 110 tub) floor section made out of 0.090" aluminum with aluminum re-enforcing below. The assembly was jigged up using aluminum/aluminum countersunk rivets, then TIG welded along the seams to ensure long term strength. It's stout!

This is tub number 2 so far, and I have a few ideas for sub-floor and above (think false floor) storage systems in the works. Hope you guys enjoy!

-Ash





 

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That's pretty slick. Looking forward to seeing your other ideas.
 

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Looks incredible Ash.

Are you using regular pop rivets to attach to the floor to the side panels?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys! This one is currently being painted and bedlined so I'll update with pictures soon.

Don - In the photo you can see that we used aluminum/aluminum blind 'pop' rivets for the initial assembly. I was able to get my hands on the funky rivets that Land Rover uses, but they had steel shanks so they didn't make the cut, so we opted for solid aluminum rivets in the remainder of the visible holes. That said, I'm confident you could safely use blind rivets throughout.

As for availability, I suppose I could offer these as a complete 'drop in' assembly for those crazy enough to take on the task. I would suggest those seriously interested to send me a PM to talk specifics.

-Ash
 

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I have always wanted to build a body floor like this, but with a built in water or fuel tank.
Very very very good work!
 

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I have always wanted to build a body floor like this, but with a built in water or fuel tank.
Very very very good work!
Part of the reason I'm so curious about sub and false floor ideas... neat-o
 

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Thanks guys! This one is currently being painted and bedlined so I'll update with pictures soon. Don - In the photo you can see that we used aluminum/aluminum blind 'pop' rivets for the initial assembly. I was able to get my hands on the funky rivets that Land Rover uses, but they had steel shanks so they didn't make the cut, so we opted for solid aluminum rivets in the remainder of the visible holes. That said, I'm confident you could safely use blind rivets throughout. As for availability, I suppose I could offer these as a complete 'drop in' assembly for those crazy enough to take on the task. I would suggest those seriously interested to send me a PM to talk specifics. -Ash
Thanks Ash - might just use the aluminum blind rivets just for the ease of getting them. Thanks for the info on them.
 

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As I said on instagram, this makes me just want to go back and redo mine again, especially with the bigger and better photos.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have always wanted to build a body floor like this, but with a built in water or fuel tank.
Very very very good work!
Thanks! There's huge fluid storage potential, whether fuel, water, or both, in a false floor system without taking a big hit on cargo space. I have a few wheels turning on this front. That, and since we can dictate the layout of the structural ribbing it allows us to afford a little space here and there for some underfloor boxes. I'm particularly excited about the idea of a discreet rifle compartment.

Thanks Ash - might just use the aluminum blind rivets just for the ease of getting them. Thanks for the info on them.
I'd go for it! Fastenal will have the sealed aluminum/aluminum 3/16 rivets you're looking for. If you can't find them give me a shout and I'll send you a box.

-Ash
 

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Thanks! There's huge fluid storage potential, whether fuel, water, or both, in a false floor system without taking a big hit on cargo space.
-Ash
Ash - Even if the floor were more of a flat rectangle than a square, the girth potential for additional fuel and/or water is excellent. All you would need would be some gradual downward slope with a low point for fuel pickup with a return higher up to keep trapped air out of the pickup.
If there are multiple chambers all you need is upper vent tubes so the liquid can fill up and empty from the top down. I know this over simplifies the design problems, but you're on to something big that will expand the use of "negative space" or unused area with something very very very useful to overlanders.
Just consider the potential for veg burners to store an extra 30 - 40 gallons for example and this is all guesswork from this end. On a trip, this is the difference between spending $120 on diesel or burning free veg fuel. Then there are the hot showers with some of that clean water you store in the "Ash design" water tank(s). We're watching and waiting for the next evolution. Genius is not to be rushed, but is generally improved upon with each product you turn out!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ash - Even if the floor were more of a flat rectangle than a square, the girth potential for additional fuel and/or water is excellent. All you would need would be some gradual downward slope with a low point for fuel pickup with a return higher up to keep trapped air out of the pickup.
If there are multiple chambers all you need is upper vent tubes so the liquid can fill up and empty from the top down. I know this over simplifies the design problems, but you're on to something big that will expand the use of "negative space" or unused area with something very very very useful to overlanders.
Just consider the potential for veg burners to store an extra 30 - 40 gallons for example and this is all guesswork from this end. On a trip, this is the difference between spending $120 on diesel or burning free veg fuel. Then there are the hot showers with some of that clean water you store in the "Ash design" water tank(s). We're watching and waiting for the next evolution. Genius is not to be rushed, but is generally improved upon with each product you turn out!
Oh yeah..just with a few rough calculations there's a quick 25 gallons that can be packaged here, all while retaining the middle row seating and only giving up 4" of height. Ditch the seats or make the tank taller and you're looking at an easy 50 gallons.

It'd be easy to pass the feed through the floor into the primary tank, although filling is a slightly different game since you're either faced with cutting out an external fill neck or having it in the truck -- neither of which I'm particularly keen on. I've done auxiliary tank setups with dash operated transfer pumps, so maybe that's the appropriate route on a setup like this for cleaner integration. Lots to consider, and I'll keep putting my ideas down and refining them.

I appreciate the encouraging words!

-Ash
 

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Adapting the long ranger Aussie tanks that fit into the rear quarter between the filler and tank idea and your raised floor idea this is fascinating stuff!
 

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that SW beam that you integrated for under the 2nd row seat is the uber cool part.
Welding the ribs instead of rivets, again very nicely done.
 
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