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1989 110 2-door soft top
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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I know how ridiculous this may sound to some people, but the AC in my 110 is pretty underwhelming. I have an '89 110 built in South Africa, 3.5 V8, and factory AC. The air is ice cold, but the volume of air, even with the fan at full speed, is very weak. I can feel some air on the left 2 vents (closest to the fan), but the right 2 vents barely flow any air at all. There's nothing obstructing the duct or the fan intake as far as I can tell. The fan sounds normal, and I can hear it change speeds as I switch through the different fan speed settings.

Is this normal? If you have a ROW 110 with factory AC, does it blow a good amount of air? Is the fan removable without disconnecting the AC lines, and if so, is there an aftermarket fan available that can move some air volume?
 

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Picyures?
 

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That unit should produce more than enough air when working properly.
Turn on the key, but do not start the engine.
Turn the temp dial all the way cold and turn the fan on each speed.
Does the speed increase from 1 to 3?
Do you get sufficient air flow when on 3?
Turn the temp dial to the least amount of cold.
Repeat the fan position test and report.

You unfortunately have one of the later units with the circuit board and over complicated wiring..
 

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I've read somewhere that the hole in the bulkhead where the air comes through the firewall into the A/C unit is seriously undersized - not sure which model of A/C is the one they are talking about.
 

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1989 110 2-door soft top
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Discussion Starter #6
OK, followed your procedure. Yes, the fan changes speed from 1 to 3. (Doesn't have a temp dial, just a 3-position switch that engages the compressor.) Some air on the left vents, almost zero air flow from the right 2 vents.

Here's a video. This is with the fan on 3.


Any ideas?
 

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OK, followed your procedure. Yes, the fan changes speed from 1 to 3. (Doesn't have a temp dial, just a 3-position switch that engages the compressor.) Some air on the left vents, almost zero air flow from the right 2 vents.

Here's a video. This is with the fan on 3.


Any ideas?
Maybe the blower fan drum has slipped from the shaft. It happened to mine but I can hear slipping noises. I ended up cleaning the shaft and the fan drum then glueing with super glue. Mine is a coolair logan system, looks very similar to the factory setup.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Mendicant
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I've read somewhere that the hole in the bulkhead where the air comes through the firewall into the A/C unit is seriously undersized - not sure which model of A/C is the one they are talking about.
that’s the hole from the heater box through the bulkhead to the cabin. The AC is stand-alone and the blower is in the footwell so it’s unaffected by the size of the hole.
 

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Verify that you have an adequate ground.
If you do, you'll need to drop the unit down enough to get to the wiring and investigate.
Because the air flow increased with 1 to 2 to 3, or at least that's what the video showed, there is a problem with the blower motors.
It is likely inadequate current, but you could also have a bad or disconnected blower motor.
There are 2 of them, so only having one operational could provide your symptoms as well.
 

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1989 110 2-door soft top
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Verify that you have an adequate ground.
If you do, you'll need to drop the unit down enough to get to the wiring and investigate.
Because the air flow increased with 1 to 2 to 3, or at least that's what the video showed, there is a problem with the blower motors.
It is likely inadequate current, but you could also have a bad or disconnected blower motor.
There are 2 of them, so only having one operational could provide your symptoms as well.
Could you elaborate on what you mean by "adequate ground?" - as in, where to check? Battery to chassis, fuse panel to bulkhead, or is there a separate ground for the blower motors?
 

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1989 110 2-door soft top
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Maybe the blower fan drum has slipped from the shaft. It happened to mine but I can hear slipping noises. I ended up cleaning the shaft and the fan drum then glueing with super glue. Mine is a coolair logan system, looks very similar to the factory setup.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Makes sense! I'll look into that. Were you able to remove the blower assembly without disconnecting the coolant lines?
 

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Makes sense! I'll look into that. Were you able to remove the blower assembly without disconnecting the coolant lines?
I was able to remove the blower motor assembly using a combination ratchet wrench with a bit adapter to remove a torx screw holding the blower motor in place. It’s a strap that holds the center section of the blower motor in place. I was only able to locate one of the screws. After I removed the one screw I was able to bend the strap and pull the blower motor out with the wire still connected to it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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The main AC wiring connection will have a ground wire.
You should be able to trace it and make sure the connection is good.
Then verify the ground is good at the blower motors.
You'll also need to unbolt the entire unit from the dash and drop it down enough to have access to troubleshoot the blower motors.
With everything connected you will be able to run through the switch settings and see what the blower motors are doing and verify that the motors have power.
Take the advice good advice from 671rover regarding the fan drum in post 7 and how to remove it in post 12 if needed.
 

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1989 110 2-door soft top
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Discussion Starter #14
Much thanks to both of you for the advice. I'll tackle this project Saturday and report back.

Thanks again!
 

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As a developer of DIY conversion kits, it is rewarding to be part of the accomplishments of others, even when it is only based on a few tips and letting them know they are not entirely alone as they educate themselves into the realm of self reliance.
You can do it with your own perseverance!
 

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I have the same “Dans” ac unit in my sa 110.
It makes 44 degree air on a 90 degree day but i have to tape over 3 of the 5 vents to feel any effective airflow on the drivers side
The fan speeds are just too slow.
The burning question is: how to get higher fan speeds?
 

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SC110, I have a '91 from South Africa with the factory air and have a similar problem, although my unit is a "Dunair" and does have a thermostat dial. I don't feel as though there is anything wrong with my unit, it just doesn't move enough air to cool more than the forward part of the front seats. I'm working on a solution replacing the small stock blower (a centrifugal fan in my case, built into the bottom of the stock unit in the passenger seat foot area) with a marine bilge fan that blows much harder and quieter and works off 12v (Seaflow 3" 130CFM). I'm also routing ducts under my console from the main unit's duct to the rear seats using a second identical fan under the console (with a rheostat speed on/off switch set into the rear of the console). If I'm successful I'll let you know.
 

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1989 110 2-door soft top
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Discussion Starter #19
Just a little update. I dropped the under-dash unit, but had a real hard time figuring out the wiring. Couldn't find a wiring diagram anywhere on the internet that matched anything. Found one ground wire that looked like it had been spliced into the harness at the resistor pack. It was attached to the screw that holds the metal box behind the fuse panel to the bulkhead. I scratched off a little paint in hopes of giving it a better connection, but maybe not enough because no change. I'm going to dig into that again because it looks like it was added after the fact and that makes me suspicious.

Both fans are turning. I could feel air moving at both inlets. Interestingly, when I unplugged one fan the other kept working, but when I plugged the first fan back in and unplugged the second fan both stopped. Might be wired in series? Again, without a wiring diagram I am completely lost.

I was told by someone this is not a factory unit, but an aftermarket similar to what Rovers North sells.
Stay tuned...
 
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