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Discussion Starter #21
Just curious how much was the heater?

I only ask because it seems like the Webasto and Planar heaters are dropping in price (probably because of these chinese knockoffs). Not that I think this isn't a deal, but some serviceability would be nice down the road (for example, paying twice as much for a unit you can replace a failed component on might be worth it at the expense of replacing the whole heater)
I got mine for $170 shipped. The seller has upped it to something like $174 now.

From what I have gathered from the different forums, most of the replacement parts are available. Some even replace the glow plug with the Webasto unit.
 

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I had been looking at the Webasto units, but for the price point this is great; just ordered one.

Okay I am in CA and in the valley cold is not a huge issue, but camping in Tahoe just became a whole load nicer.
 

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I'm getting ready to buy one of these as a tent heater solution and work it hard. If it does well over this winter, will plan to install in my next D. Very interested in safety/reliability of chinese vs. russian vs german models.
 

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FYI-there's a newer model of the fuel pump (TH11 model) that is much quieter then previous, so for anyone shopping for the a new kit, it's worth confirming which one is included.
 

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heater arrived today.... I went with the all-in-one option and am trying to decide where to locate combustion intake air line.
going to install the heater in the rear bench area of the 110 and exhaust straight into the wheel well. any thoughts or recommendations where to draw the combustion air from?
 

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heater arrived today.... I went with the all-in-one option and am trying to decide where to locate combustion intake air line.
going to install the heater in the rear bench area of the 110 and exhaust straight into the wheel well. any thoughts or recommendations where to draw the combustion air from?
Wouldn't you want to draw from the vehicles interior like a home heating system?
 

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I think that would be fine with the supply air for the heat, but I'm pretty sure the combustible air needs to be from outside. I could be wrong though... Certainly wouldn't be the first time.
 

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I'm excited to hear how you like the all-in-one unit, I just ordered one last night from China (so should arrive in about a month at the earliest).

I understand that the fresh air (for mixing with the diesel before burning) should still be from outside and that it should be protected from the elements (rain, snow, road splash) and preferably far enough away from the exhaust to not recycle the burnt fumes.

Would it maybe make sense to extend the exhaust line down and out the back (by the bumper) and then take your oxygen intake from under the wheel well? Maybe use a splash guard too depending on orientation?
 

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My all in one unit just arrived. I am going to draw in air from the outside for combustion (I assume everyone will) that lowers the water content in the air, so less problem with condensation. condensation will still be an issue because of combustion, so I will vent (exhaust it ) to the outside as well,
Not sure how long those hoses can or should be, me having a tithonis, the hard shell already has some holes in it for various reasons, I'm hoping to repurpose them!
 

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gotta say, I like Dan's install.
I didn't mean to hijack the thread, sorry if this is messing up the original.

I still haven't decided locations on my intake/exhaust... much staring at the truck...not much cutting yet.
I like the idea of the exhaust farther back to get the intake right there where I plan to put the unit, but worry about road spray on the intake in wheel well.

weather should be up to low 30's tomorrow. i'll do some exploring and provide some thoughts.

maybe Admin and/or Dan can let me know if they want me to start a new thread....
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I like the idea of the exhaust farther back to get the intake right there where I plan to put the unit, but worry about road spray on the intake in wheel well.

maybe Admin and/or Dan can let me know if they want me to start a new thread....
I would vote against having the intake in the wheel well for the same reason that you cite. From what I have gathered, the combustion intake is supposed to be outside the cab to prevent any back flow of exhaust gasses during startup and shutdown.

Due to the drafty nature of my 110, I also bought a CO detector that I leave in the cab. I cannot smell any of the exhaust gasses inside the cab, but thats why it is a silent killer. It's just cheap peace of mind.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GP7CZS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I routed mine up to the top of the seatbox. If you have the length of hose available, I would try to do the same. If not there, I would try to mount it as high and center-line as possible.

I have zero issues with you posting you project here. Hopefully the different ways that we have gone about the installs will help others figure out how they can do it.
 

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that's funny....the CO detector was the first suggestion out of my wife's mouth when I was explaining why I wanted a fuel fired heater in the cab of my 110. it's a great recommendation and thanks for the link.

so, your combustible intake is inside the cab? no issues though? I was concerned about that back flow and smelling like fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
so, your combustible intake is inside the cab? no issues though? I was concerned about that back flow and smelling like fuel.
Sorry, it is mounted underneath the seatbox, below the cubby box, so as high up under the seatbox as I could get it. I would not mount it inside the cab.

I'll post a picture tomorrow if I am able to clear that up.
 

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ah,gotcha.. I misunderstood. I understand now, I recall seeing your two holes drilled in the base of the seatbox.
 

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Any comments on how these knockoff heaters are compare to the Webasto?

Any issues with build quality to use thus far?
 

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I put the self-contained unit in my truck a couple of weeks ago. the initial burn-off was a bit smelly, but it heats up my 110 interior fast. Driving around in the mountains, I get up and its 5 degrees outside, turn the heater on and within 5 minutes the cab is comfortable. if my truck had a seat box under the driver I would have installed a unit under there as Dan did.... definitely a nicer set-up. however.... I do like the simplicity of the all in one unit. my only issue as of now is that I can't get the remote control to work. the manual that comes with it is almost useless, but for $200 shipped, it was absolutely worth it.... cant help with the comparison though as I have no experience with the webasto.
 

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my only issue as of now is that I can't get the remote control to work. the manual that comes with it is almost useless, but for $200 shipped, it was absolutely worth it....
Mine should be arriving in the next week or so and I'm hoping that it comes with better remote instructions than yours! If it does I'll share it with you

I did find a few good tutorials online last year for how to connect these remotes because of how bad the instructions usually are. Maybe you'll have some luck there?
 

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Curious as to the plus / minus of this diesel heater compared to a propane heater like the "Mr. Buddy".
 

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Curious as to the plus / minus of this diesel heater compared to a propane heater like the "Mr. Buddy".
F the Mr. Buddy. I have one and you only get a few hours out of it and the condensation is out of control in a tent. Just not viable for more then a weekend. These 5kw heaters last hell of a long time on a few liters of diesel. way more efficient in my book.

I joined the FB group and I have yet to see anything negative about these heaters. the way to go from what I can tell. looking forward to getting mine. you can even do a some plumbing so that it not only heats the cab, but you can run ducting out to a tent or up to an RTT.
 

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Mr. Buddy goes through a lot of propane 3 hrs to a bottle on high and 6 hrs on low.
I didn't research, but is Mr. Buddy recommended for use in small not so well ventilated areas, like a zipped up tent?
These mini-furnaces barely use any diesel, at a rate of 0.1 liters per hour means they can run steady for days on any setting using a low amount of current as well.
 
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