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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to replace the water pump and leaking P-gasket on this 300TDI that has kept the truck stationary for a year and there is one stubborn bolt that feels like it's going to snap. The other bolts were very hard to get out - the steel corroded with/into the aluminum. If this thing snaps the water pump should come off but the housing it bolts to might be 'welded' to that bolt.

Removing it could end up damaging/destroying the housing that the water pump bolts into. Any thoughts on that appreciated, but worst case if I can't weld a new head onto the bolt and twist it out I'll end up having to beat the housing off of it (in absence of any other ideas).

In case I have to replace that housing what is that thing called? I Googled around and didn't easily find a name for it.
 

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Plenty of PB Blaster, if you can drill the head of the bolt off and remove Pp, soak what's left of the bolt. But first try soaking it as it is and try to tighten it a bit and work it back and forth, good luck of our quest.

Make sure to coat the NEW bolts with anti-seize
 

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I had to replace a core seal behind this bracket (ERR3736 Housing Water Pump Mount, $650 from Defenders Northwest). The below link is a great video showing how to remove the bracket and some of the warnings of what may happen. I was successful in removing every bolt except the last damn one and it snapped inside the bracket. I tried heat, hammers, lube you name it to get it out of the bracket but the bolt was so corroded into the bracket I ended up having to drill out the bolt which ruined the bracket which is cast aluminum If you go down this route get new bolts for everything.

 

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If you're that afraid of fucking it up I would chisel the head of the bolt off remove the water pump. Then remove the bracket and take it to a machine shop to have them drill and tap it. Would definitely be less than the cost of buying a new one
 

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If you're that afraid of fucking it up I would chisel the head of the bolt off remove the water pump. Then remove the bracket and take it to a machine shop to have them drill and tap it. Would definitely be less than the cost of buying a new one
The problem is the stud gets seized to the bracket and the stud goes into the block. My bolt broke and there was still no way to get it out. Funny thing is that I backed the stud out of the block with my fingers.
 

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When you say you've used heat, what was your exact process? What type of heat, how long, how concentrated, etc?
I put my torch to the bracket where the stud was. I did not go hard core on it. It didn't want overheat the bracket and jack something else up on the block. I actually never got the stub out of the bracket. I was only able to get enough room between the bracket and the block to get a saw in there to cut the stud by beating the **** out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I put my torch to the bracket where the stud was. I did not go hard core on it. It didn't want overheat the bracket and jack something else up on the block. I actually never got the stub out of the bracket. I was only able to get enough room between the bracket and the block to get a saw in there to cut the stud by beating the **** out of it.
That is what I'm afraid of - that ^&@!^& bolt is corroded in there badly. Geez that part is silly expensive.
I can't see how PB Blaster can even get into there right now until the bolt head breaks off.

Hum, maybe an impact wrench might help w/ the hammering action? I'd have to remove the radiator.
 

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That is what I'm afraid of - that ^&@!^& bolt is corroded in there badly. Geez that part is silly expensive.
I can't see how PB Blaster can even get into there right now until the bolt head breaks off.

Hum, maybe an impact wrench might help w/ the hammering action? I'd have to remove the radiator.
Good luck...
 

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I put my torch to the bracket where the stud was. I did not go hard core on it. It didn't want overheat the bracket and jack something else up on the block. I actually never got the stub out of the bracket. I was only able to get enough room between the bracket and the block to get a saw in there to cut the stud by beating the **** out of it.
Try heating the head of the bolt to see if thermal expansion and contraction will give you an opportunity to break the rust free inside the block. I don't see that heating the bracket is going to get you the outcome you need/want
 

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Try heating the head of the bolt to see if thermal expansion and contraction will give you an opportunity to break the rust free inside the block. I don't see that heating the bracket is going to get you the outcome you need/want
The corrosion happens where the stud goes through the bracket which are dissimilar metals. the stud is also about 4 inches long so it has lots of surface area the corrode. The block had no corrosion where the stud went into the block.
 

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Shearing the head off the bolt is not really a problem and is the most likely outcome anyway as the shank of the bolt along with associated rust seizes in the housing. Try tightening and loosening a small amount in quick succession to break the bound up corrosion. If all other bolts are out, try to rotate the casing as it is not keyed to the block. This will determine for sure if the bolt is also seized into the block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The water pump replacement is not that bad. You do not need to remove the water pump housing bracket to replace it.
The only bolts that come out hard are the water pump bolts.
That was a good video posted above re: the P-gasket. If you're replacing the water pump and you've got the hardest bolts out it makes sense to do the P-gasket too and be sure you have the upgraded metal gasket, not the paper one.
 
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