[solcat18]

So I just pulled my 2.5 na motor and gearbox as part of a complete restoration I’m doing. Everything runs fine and I’ve actually been really happy with it. I know its slow but its fine for what I need and want (I’m not interested in a swap on this truck). The only complaint I have is it burps a little bit of oil out of the breather cap. Its not a lot of oil so I don’t know if its a symptom of a larger blowback problem or just a loose cap or seal? I’ve heard people having success with installing a splash guard inside the valve cover to deal with this but I don’t know much about it so if anyone has experience with this I would like to hear about it.

I’m looking for ideas on preventative maintenance that I should do while it’s out keeping in mind that I don’t want to do a complete rebuild due to time and money constraints but if you feel that’s important go ahead and try to convince me!

Here’s a list of things I’m thinking of doing and wonder if you have any suggestions or additions that make sense to do now as opposed to when the motor is installed?

1. Change all external belts
2. Replace timing belt
3. Clutch
4. Address oil burping from breather cap
5. Paint the block
6. Crank seals
7. Complete fluid change (of course this could probably be done easily after install too)

Anything else you would do that I’m missing? Thanks for the feedback!

 

[rdavisinva]

I would upgrade the engine, BUT....
If you think you need to stay original, we have a 2.5 NA here with very low mileage, about 20K, that came out of a Tithonus for $999 that ran perfect.
Then you can keep yours as a spare as many of these engines get scrapped because they are so underpowered that no one wants them.

 

[supertreeman]

When I had a 12j it slobbered oil out the breather too. I was initially pretty paranoid about it, but it ran well enough that I eventually stopped worrying about it..

Your list looks pretty inclusive. Almost everything will be easier while the engine is out.

Although the 12j is really slow they do seem to be pretty bulletproof as long as they aren't terribly neglected.

 

[Naplm00]

Maybe do the lt230 input seal and the shaft o-ring . Both inaccessible when installed.

If you are doing rear main also do the t seals and the block to clutch housing gasket.

 

[solcat18]

I would upgrade the engine, BUT....
If you think you need to stay original, we have a 2.5 NA here with very low mileage, about 20K, that came out of a Tithonus for $999 that ran perfect.
Then you can keep yours as a spare as many of these engines get scrapped because they are so underpowered that no one wants them.

Thanks Robert, I actually have a spare 2.5na already! So I’m softening on the upgrade concept. I suppose now is the time if I was going to do this. What would you do 200tdi or 300tdi, or??? I hear the 200 is a pretty seamless swap and less electronics? But a lot of comments promote the 300. Do you happen to know the measurements on the long vs. short LT77 as I understand that affects the install of the 300? I’m not sure what I currently have.

 

[rdavisinva]

If you want to stay diesel:
Go with the 300TDI.(2.5 Liter) if you can weld and don't mind cutting the old mounts off the frame and welding the 300TDI mounts on.
If you can't or don't want to weld and change mounts, go with the 200TDI (2.5 Liter) to stay diesel.
OR
If you want much better performance, domestic parts support, and very low maintenance, go with the Chevy 250 gasoline engine that will also bolt right into your Defender.

Both the 200TDI and Chevy 250 (4.1 Liter) will make absolutely no changes to your host Defender and are simple and easy to install by engine swap standards (something you can accomplish in a weekend or 2 with your prep work completed).