engine needs 3 things to run: timed spark, air and fuel
go thorough each system methodically and you will def find it
go thorough each system methodically and you will def find it
2.5 Liter 4 Cyl Carbureted DIED while driving
Need some help. 86 D110 2.5 Liter 4 cyl Petrol
WAS running better than ever, then the engine died while I was in 1st gear and accelerating through an intersection.
-Pulled the spark plugs and they were filthy. Replaced 4 spark plugs and it started right up and ran fine around the block twice.
-Started next day, but died after idling only about 60 seconds. Won't start at all now. It has power and has fuel, it cranks strong but won't start.
Mechanic looked at carb, spark plugs, distributer, choke, throttle, and checked power, fuel, and compression - ALL FINE. I cleaned and re-fitted the electrical connections at the ignition coil (new). The mechanic is even baffled.
Is there some potentially loose ground wire I am just missing or something? After 3 days, we cannot determine what the heck could possibly be causing the issue. Any insights?
WAS running better than ever, then the engine died while I was in 1st gear and accelerating through an intersection.
-Pulled the spark plugs and they were filthy. Replaced 4 spark plugs and it started right up and ran fine around the block twice.
-Started next day, but died after idling only about 60 seconds. Won't start at all now. It has power and has fuel, it cranks strong but won't start.
Mechanic looked at carb, spark plugs, distributer, choke, throttle, and checked power, fuel, and compression - ALL FINE. I cleaned and re-fitted the electrical connections at the ignition coil (new). The mechanic is even baffled.
Is there some potentially loose ground wire I am just missing or something? After 3 days, we cannot determine what the heck could possibly be causing the issue. Any insights?
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If you’re speaking about the distributor cap, yes those are clean and making good contact.
I have followed everything down to the block itself. No luck. That’s why I’m wondering if it’s something dumb that I’m just overlooking - like a loose ground lol
No asking if the distributor is the points & condenser type or electronic? If points type the contacts may be burnt or gap insufficient
Seen similar. 100% intermittent spark failure in that instance. Electrical. Go through the ignition connections one by one. Tight? Good?
Electronic distributorNo asking if the distributor is the points & condenser type or electronic? If points type the contacts may be burnt or gap insufficient
Ok! Thanks! Trying this in the AM!Seen similar. 100% intermittent spark failure in that instance. Electrical. Go through the ignition connections one by one. Tight? Good?
Decided to go do it now instead of waiting, and no luck. All connections good at the ignition switch.Seen similar. 100% intermittent spark failure in that instance. Electrical. Go through the ignition connections one by one. Tight? Good?
Look at coil, etc etc. Take a meter to see whether you have power where it’s meant to be and when. You may well have to break down again to find it.Decided to go do it now instead of waiting, and no luck. All connections good at the ignition switch.
Remove a plug, plug the wire back on. Ground the plug to a spot of clean bare metal on the engine by touching the treaded part of the plug. Have someone spin the engine over. Is spark jumping the electrode gap on the plug ? Oh, wear 🧤
Power throughout and NICE spark at plugs.Look at coil, etc etc. Take a meter to see whether you have power where it’s meant to be and when. You may well have to break down again to find it.
Spark plugs are new and sparking WELL. I'm now thinking it could be the ignition power module (metal block at the bulkhead next to the ignition coil) , because everything else is new and visually seems to be working properly. Too bad I can't get a new one locally or even overnighted to me to test.Remove a plug, plug the wire back on. Ground the plug to a spot of clean bare metal on the engine by touching the treaded part of the plug. Have someone spin the engine over. Is spark jumping the electrode gap on the plug ? Oh, wear 🧤
It was oil on the plugs - VERY OLD PLUGS . Changed the plugs and it started up strong - TWICE. Next morning, went back out and it spun and spun, but no turnover.You said the plugs were filthy, can you be more specific? See below link to common spark plug foulings.
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Review this, come back, and let us know which one it is. It'll help a ton with diagnosis.
YOU need to troubleshoot in person. When it does not work, check for spark at that time... Then use a meter to trace the location of the fault. Random parts replacement is not a path to happiness. Step one, understand the ignition system. It is very simple. Once you understand how it works, you can fault trace in a few minutes. It is just like every other distributor driven electronic ignition car on the planet.
I did do all of these things myself and in person over the course of 3 days. Everything seems normal. Even stumped a mechanic AFTER I ran through everything myself first. I do have some experience, and I only come to forums as a last resort. From my findings thus far, it HAS to be electrical, so I’m looking at the electric ignition upgrade (completed by PO) specially the module itself. Thanks!YOU need to troubleshoot in person. When it does not work, check for spark at that time... Then use a meter to trace the location of the fault. Random parts replacement is not a path to happiness. Step one, understand the ignition system. It is very simple. Once you understand how it works, you can fault trace in a few minutes. It is just like every other distributor driven electronic ignition car on the planet.
I
engine needs 3 things to run: timed spark, air and fuel
go thorough each system methodically and you will def find it
[/QUOTEi
I think I’m onto something at the electric ignition module. Thank you!!
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
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