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Discussion Starter #1
In the spring of 2019 i purchased this 1984 110. My plan is to completely disassemble
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the vehicle and start from the ground up.

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The 110 was originally sold by Beherman Dameon in Belgium. There it at one point had a Peugeot 2.5 litre diesel switched in to it.

My plan was to start with a new galvanized chassis(seen here). I then had it powder coated by a duplex industrial system
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Discussion Starter #3
So here we are at the beginning after the complete disassembly. The 110 was originally Trident green. I plan to do mostly a restoration including re-painting it to the original color. I would prefer something with a bit more power than the original 2.5 L NA diesel, so I acquired a 300 tdi from a ROW 2000 Defender that one of the other forum members is converting to a LS3. I now also have a rebuilt R380 and transfer case from Turner Engineering. I have sent the rear axle off to GBR Utah to have the Salisbury rear differential rebuilt.

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I had a local place hone the cylinders, place new pistons and connecting rods. New cylinder heads from Turner Engineering. The alternator was Russian. New 100 Amp from Rovers North. New water pump. New vacuum pump. Local diesel shop rebuilt the fuel injector pump.

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The 1984 110 has the pull up type handles with manual roll-up windows. The frames on all four doors were pretty rusted out. The front doors I was able to find new replacements with pull up handles. However, apparently there are no new or remanufactured 2nd row pull up doors on the planet. So I ordered the replacement pieces that I needed from SP 4x4 panels. We now have these welded in, and it looks pretty good. I think the frames are sturdier than ever. I have a hot dip galvanizing place about 90 miles away that I am going to have these frames HDG as well as the galvanized trim pieces for the side body and rear, as well as the front bumper. The skins for the 2nd row are not in horrible shape, so I plan to re-skin the doors with the existing skins. Will need a fair amount of body work on those as well as the bonnet.
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Discussion Starter #9
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New Bolts for the front differential. I decided to go with a Ashcroft NTB front differential.
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Installed
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Discussion Starter #10
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I decided to go with a remanufactured Cylinder head. New bolts. That tightening sequence is involved!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
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Old Man Emu Nitro Sport Shocks with springs. (a bout a 1" lift)_ I went with a 3 degree castor correction on the front radius arms, because I purchased some Gwyn Lewis 1" spring spacers that I think I will put in as well. (not in yet)
 

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Great job.
Have you had door frames galvanized before?
I had a set of 5 series IIA SW door frames galvanized years ago and they came back with serious warpage.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
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One of the most surprisingly detailed portion or the rebuild is getting the swivel joints, CVs, and the hub all put together. Thank goodness for the green bible and youtube! The trailfitters tool box videos helped alot on this.
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The swivel joints for this are the 1983-1986 type, so the brake calipers have to be the narrow - original ones. Could not do the vented type discs as there was not enough room. A bit of a bummer, but i dont think I need the best brakes possible as this vehicle will probably never be on a highway. New stainless steel brake tubes and braided connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Great job.
Have you had door frames galvanized before?
I had a set of 5 series IIA SW door frames galvanized years ago and they came back with serious warpage.
I have not, and I am a bit worried about it. I have seen that others have done it with success. I assume it is the technique in how they cool the metal after the dip? Still trying to decide right now if I should just epoxy prime and paint. If anyone has any definitive advice, I would love it. I know SP panels 4x4 has galvanized frames that they sell so I assume there is a safe way to prevent the warping.
 

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The swivel joints for this are the 1983-1986 type, so the brake calipers have to be the narrow - original ones. Could not do the vented type discs as there was not enough room. A bit of a bummer, but i dont think I need the best brakes possible as this vehicle will probably never be on a highway. New stainless steel brake tubes and braided connectors.
I’m confused by this - isnt all the added width of the vented disc towards the “outboard” side? i.e. the inside face of the disc and the mounting position of the caliper stay the same - the disc portion just gets a little wider and a caliper spacer accommodates that extra width? I’ve never worked on an axle from that time period but I’m having trouble visualizing the problem - kindly explain please!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
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Finally figured out how to time up the engine. the timing was completely lost with the rebuild, so had to ensure that everything was set correctly. Found TDC by the notch on the fly wheel and the keyway on the crank shaft in front. The camshaft has a mark on the pulley as well as the front case. Set the Fuel pump timing with a dial gauge at 1.54 mm. Then got it all held still
while I put the timing belt on.

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I went with a LOF clutches Extreme Spec Clutch with a new Stainless Flywheel
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I’m confused by this - isnt all the added width of the vented disc towards the “outboard” side? i.e. the inside face of the disc and the mounting position of the caliper stay the same - the disc portion just gets a little wider and a caliper spacer accommodates that extra width? I’ve never worked on an axle from that time period but I’m having trouble visualizing the problem - kindly explain please!
Ya it was weird. The mounting bolts holes on the swivel case are apparently in a slightly different place. So with that placement I couldn't get the calipers to fit. I should have taken photos. Next time I take the wheel off I will take a photo of the difference between an old caliper and the 1987+ caliper.
 

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I’m confused by this - isnt all the added width of the vented disc towards the “outboard” side? i.e. the inside face of the disc and the mounting position of the caliper stay the same - the disc portion just gets a little wider and a caliper spacer accommodates that extra width? I’ve never worked on an axle from that time period but I’m having trouble visualizing the problem - kindly explain please!
Mine is a ‘85 vintage, I added vented discs & used a spacer kit on the caliper (was 20yrs ago). Worked fine since then ??

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