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Discussion Starter · #661 ·
It looks like he has the distributor driven oil pump (as opposed to crank) so he would have a V-Belt set up.
Yes V belts
 

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Discussion Starter · #662 ·
Stephen at SafariHP comes through again! Gave him a call and he had a 3.5L V8 going to the scrapyard and he pulls the crankshaft pulley assembly for me.

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A little rough but maybe I can just replace the pulleys.

We also discovered something very interesting. Not all valve covers are the same. He gave me a set from a newer V8 a few years ago for the ones I lost but they do not fit on the 3.5. The newer ones have the oil baffles on the covers while the 3.5 have them on the rockers and they foul each other. Here is the newer cover

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Here is the baffling on the 3.5 rockers.
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Stephen just pulled the correct ones off the scrap 3.5 and exchanged them for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #663 · (Edited)
Also got some more goodies that have been a problem I was trying to avoid for years. Since I was going from an LT95 to an R380/LT230 I will have to get new tunnel cover, floorboards, and front/rear fascia to fit the new transmission. Of course Stephen had all the parts I needed, and at a very good price. Such a relief to have him close by and have all that experience. I always thought I would have to get a completely new seatbox but he showed me exactly what I needed on some trucks he is building.

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Discussion Starter · #664 · (Edited)
New crankshaft oil seal in.

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And it's finally time to put the rebuilt oil pump/front cover back on. Also got a brand new water pump.

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I pulled this engine out 7 years ago, surprised to see my makeshift Dixie plate bolt holder is still intact 😆

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Discussion Starter · #665 · (Edited)
I know it doesn't seem like much but after 7 years it feels like I am finally making some progress 😭

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Nice work. Stay after it and you’ll be driving in no time.


Stephen is a great guy and a good source for parts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #667 ·
I stripped the old oil pan with paint stripper and cleaned off all the gunk as best I could.

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Quick spray with Rustoleum high temperature flat black and she’s ready to be put back on. But first I have to trim the rear seal flat.

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Discussion Starter · #668 ·
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RTV to the front and rear joints

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Then the cork gasket. Newer blocks only uses sealant, no oil pan gasket. Who knew 🤷‍♂️ Oil strainer in with its new gasket.

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Hopefully I’ll never have to take it off again.
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Discussion Starter · #669 ·
So the valve covers are in pretty rough shape. The aluminum are all oxidized from years of neglect.

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Some elbow grease and a wire brush got most of it cleaned off.

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I hit it with some sandpaper and Rustoleum high heat in Ford red.

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Another hour of sanding and she’s done.

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Discussion Starter · #670 ·
Ran in to a little problem when putting the valve covers on. The edge of the right rear cover is hitting on the Edelbrock manifold and the screw holes will not line up.

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Normally I would shave the valve cover for clearance since the Edelbrock costs more but I didn’t feel like repainting so:

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A few strokes with a file and the covers are fitted.

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Discussion Starter · #671 · (Edited)
Time to populate the Edelbrock intake manifold. Lots of research done but I am using this for reference:

Edelbrock

Looks like I will need a new thermostat housing since the Edelbrock does not have a coolant inlet like the original one marked in yellow

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This is the correct housing since it uses the inlet that is available on the Edelbrock (circled in red)

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Unfortunately that housing is very expensive. Tried using this aftermarket housing but the angle of the big hose outlet interferes with the distributor so that was a no-go.

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Discussion Starter · #672 ·
I studied the original thermostat housing some more and it looks like it was casted for that inlet but was never drilled out ( in green)

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So before I spend over $100 for the correct housing I figured I would modify my original housing to see if I can get it to work.

First I needed to cut a channel so the coolant hose from the water pump can slide on. There is enough material there so no worries about destroying the housing.

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Then it’s time to drill the hole.

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Discussion Starter · #673 ·
Looks like the modification will work. I was also able to reuse the original hose coming out of the water pump with some slight trimming to account for the shorter route.

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Discussion Starter · #675 ·
Of course now my gasket won’t work. Time to make a new one.

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Almost forgot the thermostat! Lol. Decided on an 82 degree one for Florida. Had an 88 degree one before but it gets pretty hot here.

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Discussion Starter · #676 ·
Edelbrock coolant in/out done.

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Discussion Starter · #677 · (Edited)
I just completely replaced all the coolant hoses on my LR3 a few months ago and kept all the old hoses.

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I was able to repurpose one of the hoses to complete the second connection from the water pump on my rebuild. This one used to connect to a metal pipe that ran under the old intake manifold. I decided to run it up on top.

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Now to get the power steering pump, alternator, and fan clutch back on.

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Discussion Starter · #678 ·
The engine is pretty much done except for the carburetor but I will wait on that until it is back in the truck.

Next up is the R380 and LT230 that I had rebuilt by Rob at Southwest Rovers a few years ago. It’s been sitting in these boxes ever since.

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Time to open them up and get them mated up.

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Discussion Starter · #679 · (Edited)
First thing first, reinstalling the shift mechanisms. But again I have to make some gaskets arrrrgh.

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Lining up the 2 boxes wasn’t too bad.

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They both went together much easier than I had feared.

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Looking good! Rob does great work. Tons of folks would send their boxes to him without a doubt...
 
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