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Discussion Starter · #642 ·
Now with piston #1 at TDC the new camshaft goes in. I made sure to lube up all the bearings and lobes of the camshaft with assembly lube:

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_c42.jpg UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_c46.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #643 ·
Next will be the heads. My kit came with plain steel head gaskets with no coating on either side. Is there something I should know about the gaskets? Should I put a copper sealant on them before putting on the heads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #645 ·
I used copper spay which was recommended by Woody at the Wedgeshop.
Awesome, thanks Kevin. Do you spray both sides of the gastket? I saw a video where the guy only sprayed it on the side facing the block and nothing on the head side.
 

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I think I sprayed a light coat on both sides. It was a few years ago so not so sure. Hopefully someone more knowledgable will chime in.

I see you're using ARP studs. Double check the torque values for the lower 4 bolts. I recall LR changed to a lower torque for the standard head bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #647 ·
Time for the heads. It was skimmed at the shop and valves rebuilt. On with the ARP head studs, careful to follow the stud size sequence, there are 3 lengths.

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Metal gasket gets the Permatex copper treatment. Making sure to put the "top" side up:

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Then on with the heads

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Discussion Starter · #648 ·
It was time to tighten everything up to spec and I just had a rather unnerving experience. Everything was going fine, following the sequence in the manual: bearing caps 1-8 to 70Nm and rear bearing caps to 90Nm. No problem.

Then to the con rod nuts and all confidence goes to ****.

ARP recommends using the STRETCH METHOD. Stretch the bolts to 0.0050-0.0055. Right...
Reading further they say if you do not have a stretch gauge torque the bolts to 45 ft-lbs.

Well as any avid Land Rover owner know, over-torquing a nut or bolt is a heart-sinking experience. It is tight, so freaking tight. Put on a longer handle to increase the leverage and pull harder and all of a sudden it moves. Congrats you just sheared off the bolt.

That is what it felt like torquing the con rod nuts. It just kept turning and I was sure it would shear right off:
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I was able to get to 45 ft-lbs but it felt like the bolt was going to "let go" at any second. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #649 ·
So my LR3 suddenly loss coolant and the temp gauge jumps to the redzone yesterday on a quick ride to the Home Depot for some degreaser. I quickly pull over and coolant is all over ground and steam coming out from under the hood. Had it towed to an LR indy shop prepared to pay some serious $$$. I get a call 2 hours later saying my truck is ready. WTF? I thought it was the water pump. It turns out the bleed valve for the cooling system cracked. The mechanic replaced it with a brass bushing for $2, charged me $21 for fresh coolant and 1 hour of shop time. I remember reading that easy preventative fix somewhere on D90 and it was on my to do list but never got around to it.

Anyway while talking to the mechanic I told him I just put the heads on the block and he asks which gasket I used. I quickly told him I read the manual and it clearly says to use the metal ones. He rolls his eyes and said I completely wasted my time. I argued that the manual specifically calls for a metal one for a 3.5! He says of course it did....He suggest I get the composite ones and be done with it. Good thing I haven't torqued the heads down yet :whistling:
 

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Wow cheapest LR repair ever!

Regarding HG for the 3.5... I've heard both ways from knowledgeable people. Woody @ Wedgeshop recommended metal & a LR tech on one of the boards said the same as your guy. If you do go composite, the heads should be shaved to compensate for the extra thickness or live with a minor loss in compression.
 

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Discussion Starter · #651 ·
OK so I am back at it after 4 years lol. Finally got settled in the new house and done setting up the garage. The heads and rockers are on but I forgot to take pictures.

Timing cover from the donor engine cleaned and oil pump rebuilt.

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New oil pump gears and pressure valve replaced and packed with Vaseline to prime the oil.



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Discussion Starter · #652 ·
Anyway looks like I am missing more parts from the move! I don’t know if it was left at the machine shop or hidden in a box somewhere. I cannot find my crankshaft pulley assembly. Anyone doing an engine swap have a crankshaft pulley for a 3.5L V8?! Please?
 

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Discussion Starter · #653 ·
Made some more progress today. Put in the valley gasket and Edelbrock intake manifold. Hopefully I put enough sealant in all the right places.
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If I can get settled on an LS swap I could help you on the pulley - hopping to pull the trigger soon but nothing sure if I will be much help if you get in a rush lol

which gaskets did you settle on?

I’ve been thinking of rebuilding one of my 3.5’s with EFI using some Wedgeshop bits - good people there!
 

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Discussion Starter · #655 ·
Thanks Tex. Hopefully I will have it all sorted by then.
I can’t remember the brand of gasket I used. It’s been so long ago.
 

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94' NAS 3.9 Petrol D90 White soft top (LT77 -> R380, LT230)
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The head gasket discussion -- metal vs composite -- is very interesting.
Is there a thread that discusses this topic?
I personally always use copper sealant spray on all metal gaskets.
Thanks for posting pics during the rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter · #660 ·
The head gasket discussion -- metal vs composite -- is very interesting.
Is there a thread that discusses this topic?
I personally always use copper sealant spray on all metal gaskets.
Thanks for posting pics during the rebuild.
I am sure there is a rabbit hole somewhere about it but I’m just following what an old British Land Rover mechanic told me. Plus it’s too late for me now 😂.
 
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