[DJW]

I'm still in awe of the fact that the machine work was done in a couple months. I have had my MG engine at the shop for three years and it still hasn't been done.

Dang! That’s a shame!!!

 

[Rdan2012]

My stock rebuilt 2.5 and stock carb with 1.4 gearing will get up to 65 no problem and will continue to accelerate past 70. This is in a 90 but to be honest it may be faster than the 200tdi I had in a previous defender. Quiet smooth engine.

 

[DJW]

My stock rebuilt 2.5 and stock carb with 1.4 gearing will get up to 65 no problem and will continue to accelerate past 70. This is in a 90 but to be honest it may be faster than the 200tdi I had in a previous defender. Quiet smooth engine.

Appreciate that. Unfortunately I HAD a 1.4 in my 90 before I changed it all… but I also moved shortly after, and gave the 1.4 and LT77 away to my mechanic (I just needed it out of the garage). I’m kicking myself now.

 

[Rdan2012]

You can always swap out in the future.

 

[DJW]

Getting there!

I had this little plaque made over the Christmas break. I checked with Roland at ACR and he was fine with me using his logo. If it ever actually turns over, Ill find a place to fix it in the engine bay:

 

[DJW]

I'm also officially half way done the rear axle rebuild:

Stripped it down, used Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, then a top coating of Eastwood Chassis Black.

In hindsight I wish I didn't open the differential, but I at least got to learn about backlash and gear wear patterns. Both of which are good.

New Stub axles, Timken bearings, and end float all set up. This axle only has an inner seal (replaced).

I kept the previous brake shoes (they are clean and still have good pads).

(Please excuse the mess - it is a character flaw)

Next up is the other side of the axle. Im putting together an order now for springs, bushings, bolts, everything needed to flip the chassis down, and get this rear axle underneath.

I might skip out on the front axle for now... just to keep the project moving ahead. With the motor done, I'd love to mount the lump back in... at least make it feel like I am progressing.

Thanks for reading,

Dave

 

[rdavisinva]

Getting there!

I had this little plaque made over the Christmas break. I checked with Roland at ACR and he was fine with me using his logo. If it ever actually turns over, Ill find a place to fix it in the engine bay:

Why not on the top of the valve cover?

 

[DJW]

Why not on the top of the valve cover?

Honestly I didn't know I could drill holes to mount it to the valve cover? It'd be a good place for it though.

 

[Red90]

It is early in the morning and I might not be seeing correctly, but you might have both leading shoes on one side and both trailing on the other. Worth checking.

 

[DJW]

It is early in the morning and I might not be seeing correctly, but you might have both leading shoes on one side and both trailing on the other. Worth checking.

View attachment 482795

View attachment 482796

Thanks VERY much. I just put them back on the same way they came off (but who knows if that was correct). Both shoes looked identical to me, so I figured maybe leading/trailing wasn’t a thing anymore🤦🏼‍♂️

Really appreciate it, I’ll check when I get home tonight and report back

 

[Red90]

Thanks VERY much. I just put them back on the same way they came off (but who knows if that was correct). Both shoes looked identical to me, so I figured maybe leading/trailing wasn’t a thing anymore🤦🏼‍♂️

The only difference in the shoes (that you buy these days) is the location of the adjuster pin. The friction material location is the same. If you get them in wrong, then the adjusters don't work correctly.

 

[DJW]

Amazing! You rock.

I zoomed in on the other side that is laying on the floor in my picture.

You’re spot on, the distance from the spring to the adjuster pin is different. Whomever put them on before was incorrect.

Really appreciate it

 

[DJW]

Sorted the brakes out…

but the plot thickens. As it turns out the backing plate has a leading and trailing side as well (the adjusters are positioned differently- which clearly makes sense in retrospect).

I had the backing plate on the incorrect side… so that had to be changed as well.

Thanks again Red90, now It’s back together correctly! (I think)

(I still have to bend down the lock washer, but I’m waiting until the other side is complete. I went through 3 washers figuring out the backing plate!)

 

[rdavisinva]

It is early in the morning and I might not be seeing correctly, but you might have both leading shoes on one side and both trailing on the other. Worth checking.

Excellent.
Was thinking on the same thing, but wasn't sure if the shoes were not symmetrical, but then...
DJW, you might want to consider how to send Red90 a bottle of Scotch IMHO.

 

[DJW]

Excellent.
Was thinking on the same thing, but wasn't sure if the shoes were not symmetrical, but then...
DJW, you need to figure out how to send Red90 a bottle of Scotch IMHO.

Funny, I was thinking the exact same thing.

 

[Davis]

The only difference in the shoes (that you buy these days) is the location of the adjuster pin. The friction material location is the same. If you get them in wrong, then the adjusters don't work correctly.

Amazing eye. Would never have looked for that. I second the scotch.

 

[DJW]

On the topic of “do I need to re do this Salisbury rear differential?”…

Thanks again to Red90, the rear axle is nearly complete (a new hub washer coming from RN and it’s done).

So I moved over to reseal the pinion oil seal. Read a lot about them, so much infact, I neglected to read about marking the bolt and flange before removing them… so you can be sure to set the bearing preload correctly on reinstall 🤦🏼‍♂️

I put in the Dana 60 seal, but would appreciate anyone’s opinion on if my flange is scored too much, and either needs replacing, or a Speedy sleeve?

And, of course, can I simply replace the flange nut, tighten it and hope everything will be ok (I’ve searched, and haven’t been able to find a direct answer). Or is it diff out, new crush washer, shims, and set it all per the book?

As always, greatly appreciated.

 

[DJW]

Well, today was a roller coaster for me. BUT, I got the rear axle underneath that beautiful zinc coated chassis.

I couldn’t have done it without that guardian of a dog. The wild packs of wolves and drifters he fended off should be written about in books.

 

[DJW]

Rolling Chassis!

I still have to sort out the front brake calipers and discs (and learn all about them)… so I skipped ahead to getting myself a rolling chassis.

This makes the project feel miles ahead. Figuring out how to move the chassis single handedly was the best part 🫣

 

[DJW]

Sure, some pieces of 2X4 are serving as mounts, and I don’t have the shock towers fastened down (can’t figure out the nut size)…

BUT… it still counts as progression!