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Discussion Starter · #201 ·
In a previous post did I read that there is a filter on the high pressure outlet from the injector pump in each line feeding each injector?
My engine is from around the 1970's so a very early one, still having fuel issues
Not too familiar with the early non-turbo versions of the OM617. I'd probably have to be there to see what the issue is.

As far as I am aware, there is no filter in each feed line (unless it is in the IP itself).. at least on mine anyway.

I recommend getting a workshop manual with diagrams, it will help a lot!

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Discussion Starter · #202 ·
Time to get a few more of the old progress posts up. (especially now that I am making new progress :) )

Here's a small one:

At the Northern California Land Rover Annual, (which was a blast!) I won a set of Gwyn Lewis Front Outrigger Mud shields in the raffle. (Part No. GL1010)

They are basically 6 or 8mm thick flat plastic die cut to shape with some holes in it. Though for what it is it looks to do the job of keeping mud from living on top of the front outrigger.

The best part is that the hardware that comes with it have hex heads and not pozi screws :)


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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
Last week, took a night after work and got the new lines squared away for the new clutch booster.

  • Various Line Wrenches
  • Line Cutter
  • Flaring Kit
  • 13mm wracheting wrench to speed up use of flaring kit :)

I cut the original line just after the first bend.

Since the kit came with 5/16 line, I had to do some digging in the cabinets to find the adapter fittings.

I added a fitting and flared both of the cut ends and spliced in lines to the booster.

Then added in the flex line from hardline to slave cylinder.

After a bleeding session with the power bleeder, the air was out of lines. The new clutch is significantly stiffer than stock, so the clutch booster will be welcome to handle the Bay traffic.

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Discussion Starter · #204 ·
Turbos, Torches, and other Random Progress

Turbo Flange

  • Torch
  • 13mm wrench
  • Deadblow

Finally took the Mercedes turbo flange off in preparation for the new exhaust.

I recommend doing this when the block is NOT installed....

The nuts were seized even after a daily application of penetrating oil for a week.

In the end I used the torch and yet I still needed a deadblow against the wrench.

Oil Cooler

Tools N Parts
  • 10mm wrench x2
  • 17mm wrench
  • 7/8 Wrench
  • 3/4 Wrench
  • Torch
  • 1/2 NPT Fittings x2 - Grainger PN: 1VlV5

The stock Mercedes 300SD had an cooler, rather than try to to find a place for it to live, I opted to go with the MoD oil cooler.

The MoD oil cooler also required the torch to remove the hose fitting. I'd been soaking this one on and off as I remembered with penetrating oil for about two months and still no go...

I popped the cooler out of the frame (4 nuts/bolts) and took it into San Jose Radiator. There they pressure tested it and re-coated.

As I am building all new lines I had them cut off the BSP fittings and weld on 1/2" NPT fittings.

I got the cooler back in a day! And it looked good :)

I installed the cooler flipped 180 degrees in hopes to put the inlet and outlets on the passenger side where the lines would come from.

However, after install of the fascia panel... it looks like I won't be that lucky. I will re-evaluate when my adapters arrive. The fitting is incredibly close to the grille mount.

Lastly, to finish off the fascia panel, I needed to repair the (unused) hood latch landing plate. During removal one of the weld nuts popped off.


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I removed the hood pin from the bonnet and the whole latch assembly from my Tithonus. Since the MOD trucks have the surface mount hood latches it is really not needed.

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Discussion Starter · #206 ·
I removed the hood pin from the bonnet and the whole latch assembly from my Tithonus. Since the MOD trucks have the surface mount hood latches it is really not needed.
I probably wasted an hour going through boxes looking for the latch assembly. It wasn't until I went inside and dug up photos that I realized I never had the assembly in the first place...

Now knowing that I never needed it, (can't remember if I knew before or after I painted it), I will just leave the plate in place. It looks a bit more finished than a hole. :)

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My latch assembly was broken anyway but it does look more complete with it. Do you have to pull a hood release cable as well as release the surface latches to open it?

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319 Posts
Discussion Starter · #209 ·
Mercedes OM617 Power Steering Pump - Seal Replacements

So need to catch up on the last week or two of progress...

Power Steering Pump Seal Replacement

I ordered a 4 bolt Land Rover power steering box a few days ago off a forum member so I figured I may as well take a stab at getting the pump ready.

  • 13 mm socket
  • 21 mm socket
  • 22 mm socket
  • 30 mm socket
  • 13 mm wrench
  • Impact
  • Ratchet
  • Deadblow(s)
  • Pick
  • Couple Flat Head Screwdrivers
  • C-Clamp or Similar
  • Pulley puller (ideally) in my case I got away with a pit-man arm puller and a washer

  • 000-586-52-46 Power Steering Pump Dichtungspartner Hamburg Gasket Set (or similar)
  • 018-997-60-47 Mercedes Power Steering Pump Shaft Seal

1. Go locate 2nd engine block with ancillaries.

2. Cut slit in shrink wrap

3. Locate power steering pump.

4. Three bolts hold the pump in place. They come off quick if you can get an impact with a 13 mm socket and wrench on them.

5. Note that there is also a bolt with a plastic injection molded nut locator on the end. This is needed as well as it help adjust the power steering belt tension before tightening the main bolts.

6. Scrub 90% of the crap off with a brush, oven cleaner, and simple green.

7. Once clean(er) zip the pulley nut off using a 22 mm impact socket. In my case I was able to just hold the pulley by hand and let rip some ugga duggas.

8. Once the nut and washer is removed if you are:
  • Super Lucky: The pulley will fall right off
  • Lucky: You can have a help lift the unit up by the pulley about 1" off the table and give a
    few deadblow whacks and it will come off.
  • Normal: Grab a pulley puller and take it off that way.

Or you can be a peasant like me and realize your puller wasn't quite large enough in diameter....

It turns out though that some pitman arm pullers juuuuuust barely slips over, enough that you can put the nut back on, use a washer to spread out the offset load, apply tension, and with a good side shock from the deadblow the pulley falls right off.

Pulley is off, and there is still a bit of crud in here to get out. A leak was very possible.

9. On the back side of the unit there is a big metal spring loaded plug sealed with an O-ring all head in by a steel clip.Making sure the nut is threaded back on to the shaft to protect the threads you can apply a slight force to a large C-clamp (or quick grip and a spacer).


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Discussion Starter · #210 ·
OM617 Power Steering Pump Seal Replacement - Continued

10. Once the plug is compressed you can see that the metal clip is now free to move a bit.

Before Compression:


Now we can use the pick and flat head screwdriver to prise out the clip. It was a bit of a dance, but it does come out.

11. Once out, if lucky the plug will pop right out, if not wiggle it side to side and it will eventually work it's way out due to the spring on the inside forcing it out.

12. Using your pick and being careful not to gouge the walls pull the old o-ring seal out.

13. Install new o-ring from the kit and put everything back together.

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Discussion Starter · #211 ·
OM617 Power Steering Pump Seal Replacement - Shaft Seal

Now that the rear plug is re-sealed, we can move back and do the shaft seal.

1. Get a seal remover if you don't have one... this seal is actually kind of a pain to work out.

2. Remove the woodruff key and don't lose it!

3. Pull the seal.

4. Tap the new seal back on using a 21 mm socket.


Outer facing part of seal:

Inner facing part of seal:

5. Lastly tap the woodruff key back in.

6. Now reinstall the pulley, washer, and nut.

Expansion Valve Crush Washer

1. This one is also pretty straight forward. Remove the large plug with a 30 mm socket

2. Toss old copper crush washer

3. While you've got it open, make sure the little mesh screen is clean of debris.

3. Replace with new crush washer.

4. Tighten it all back up again.

And then you are done and ready to install on vehicle


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Discussion Starter · #212 ·
Been pretty lax with the posts lately... too many travels back and forth from the west coast to Nebraska.. brr..

Installing the power steering pump to the block is very easy.

The bracket once bolted to the block should look like below and has an awesome alternator adjustment nut you have to thread on before installing the alternator.


Make sure the plastic nut lines up with this hole here:


Now I've only got to wait until my power steering box arrives in the mail... then I can get some lines made.


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Discussion Starter · #213 ·
Pulled out the expansion tank to clean it up and spray it black along with the radiator brackets. at least that was the original plan...


I started scuffing the layers of crap off and then really just couldn't help myself.


After an absurd amount of time I reflected I probably should have just painted it and been done with it.


Now the question is to lacquer it or just leave it bare? I've read both as recommended.

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Discussion Starter · #214 ·
A couple weeks ago I took a stab at cleaning up the battery box again. I wanted to get ahead of the electrical upgrades by plugging some of the lower holes that always seem to collect the Mendocino dirt...



I also wanted to get rid of the mud collectors and install some logistics track to tie the battery down to. Mine were quite full / gone. (Thankfully this is really the only area afflicted with rust)


A couple braps of the air chisel took them right off.



Urethane adhesive was used to fill the gaps in the corners. And I ordered a couple plugs and grommets for the remaining openings.


A majority of the holes can be fit with a 1 3/8" plug or grommet.

Of course almost immediately after the paint was dry and the battery in... I came up with a different plan...

So we will see. Time to move on to something else, but I may come back and rebuild the entire box.

If anyone has scandalous battery box pics post them up! ;) I'd love to see what others have done.

I know for one I will be putting in a main quick disconnect switch when I return...


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Discussion Starter · #215 ·
Since we have had a couple cold evenings as of late - I stuck the space heater in the shed (bc I am a wus and lost all the Nebraska blood at some point) and got to work on my new Raptor binnacle and VDO gauges.


  • A couple sockets

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Discussion Starter · #217 ·
And I did it again....

Tools continued:

  • A pozi bit
  • Flat head bit
  • 3/8 drill bit
  • 3mm hex key
  • Land Rover mph gauge
  • VDO fuel gauge
  • VDO water temp gauge
  • VDO oil pressure gauge
I went with the Cockpit Vision series. A bit pricey but they fit and sure do make the originals look old!... I may have to go back and replace those.

First up was to remove the convoy cover.

Originally I wasn't going to replace the kph speedo gauge but I had a mph speedo on the shelf that didn't have light sockets that went melty... so I threw it in.



Funny how you look at an odometer funny and an additional 60,000 miles show up...

Tested and swapped in some blue LEDs to match the fuel gauge. The LEDs pop right into the VDO sockets.



I went ahead and used some Nitto NVH material on the ends of the gauge mounts just because I had it. If they end up loosening a bit, at least the rattle will be less pronounced.


Since the raptor binnacle came with all new screws, I had to drill out the convoy cover holes to 3/8 in order to fit the new screws.


All that is left is the stickers.


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Discussion Starter · #219 ·
Is your convoy cover from an MOD truck ?
I have only seen those on Perenties.
It is! The truck is a '87 110 FFR. It never saw active service (outside of England) and initially started it's life as a training truck.

Maybe since it was a training truck it was present?

I really hadn't given it much thought.
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