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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I recently bought a white '84 110 & am wanting to paint it silver or grey sometime in the near future. I was able to tweak the silver on my RRC, but I have never attempted a change color job nor do I know the ins & outs of painting a Defender. Based on my poor experience with the horizontal panels on the RRC, I'm not going to touch it without a plan for taking the roof, the hood, & the wings off so I can orient those surfaces vertically for the actual painting. I'm also concerned about the small recessed panels that the door levers are mounted in & would love to hear anyone's successful experience in dealing with those. Are there other difficult details that I'm missing?

I like the tech support, the nozzle design of the rattle cans, & the availability of matte clearcoat within the Duplicolor/Perfect Match/Krylon universe, so I will probably go with them again. I know most diy & pro painters reject the idea of painting a car with rattle cans, but it's just what I do for now & I don't see becoming convinced to up my game this time around. I do like the idea of grabbing a can or two for a session & then simply tossing them when they're empty rather than dealing with equipment.

Anyway, the darker silver matte finish on the old Caddy on this page is my favorite idea lately for which actual silver or grey to go with: Event>> Mooneyes Hot Rod Custom Show '09 - Pt2 - Speedhunters (but not the 2-tone scheme). And here's a '14 90 with matte silver: Land Rover Defender 2014 Black Pack and Silver Pack » Retail Design Blog . I'm thinking that I will paint the back door as a test sometime soon & try to get a pic of it posted up. At that point, I will listen to reason in regards to just leaving it all white.

PS: the Duplicolor matte clear is actually marketed as one of their wheel paints, but their tech support guys have verified that it should be compatible with their body paint products.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm really much more concerned about the detail work. The end result with the same products on the RRC was very nice, except for the panels that I was unable to orient vertically...& that's a mistake that I'm not going to make again. The Krylon CEO would insist that rattle can tech is much much better than it used to be. If it doesn't work out, I'll up my game accordingly.
 

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I'm really much more concerned about the detail work. The end result with the same products on the RRC was very nice, except for the panels that I was unable to orient vertically...& that's a mistake that I'm not going to make again. The Krylon CEO would insist that rattle can tech is much much better than it used to be. If it doesn't work out, I'll up my game accordingly.
Good luck. Sorry I chimed in. :rolleyes
 

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On the IIa, I brushed the interior floor and firewall, looks great. May do same on interior of Defender. For the exterior, I am using an airless sprayer... much better than rattle cans.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I brushed the interior...
Interesting, I hadn't thought of that. Might be difficult with metallic-ish silvers. I probably would have to switch to a complimentary grey/light grey for any of that. Or maybe you're a lot better with a brush than I am. Thanks!
 

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If you rattle can it, at least use Tower Paint Company.......I have found their paint and nozzles to be excellent.

However, as suggested above........there is no way I would rattle can an entire truck. For what you spend on the additional cost of spray cans you can buy a nice HVLP gun and single stage paint. Rattle cans are great for small parts and pieces, but I think you are making a mistake spraying an entire truck with cans.
 

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"single stage" is only one part of the equation. Regardless of single stage or two stage, you should use a catalyzed cross-linking epoxy or urethane.

two-part epoxy primer and either a two-part urethane single stage or two-stage color and two-part clear.

single-part paints don't cross link (with the exception of self-crosslinking acrylics, and even then, cure times are on the order of months) and so the strength is very very low.

always let a freshly painted truck cure the finish for a month before doing any off-roading with it.
 

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I was told to orient what ever you are painting the same as it will be on the vehicle, ie. Doors vertical hood horizontal etc.
Self etching spray worked well with PPG two part.
Everyone will have a different method how to do it the right way..
 

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I bought my 2k urethane primer and paint thru these guys.
House-of-Kolor
It sprayed evenly and even after some tough trails I have zero Arizona pin striping.
You also definitely need to wear a quality respirator and plan on at least a 10:1 time ratio, prep to paint.
I sprayed everything side to side, then up and down and the third coat was side to side to insure complete coverage.
 

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You also definitely need to wear a quality respirator
I'm with Dave. Another thing to note is not simply the quality of the respirator. From experience: you need to use OVAP cartridges, full tyvek suit, and need a full-face mask. Otherwise, the diisocyanates will be absorbed through your eyeballs and life will suck for you.
 

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Disassemble as much at possible. Don't do the MAACO masking challenge.

Don't be afraid to rattle can. You can achieve good results if done right. The only drawback is it's less durable.
 
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