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Fellow Defender Source Members -

I'm in the market for a 110 RHD, preferably a 300 TDI and starting to look seriously at several postings. I've searched the forum, but not been able for find a resources that details a diligence checklist for evaluating a 110? Other than the main threads on legal vehicles, rust, title, Bring a Trailer postings, can anyone point me to resources to make sure that I am asking the right questions?

Thank you in advance,
Col Matt Swindle, US Marines
 

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This is a good place to start:


I would also strongly recommend buying one that has already been imported and by a reputable seller. It's not hard to find reviews good and bad on this forum (stay clear of Alpine Element). And by all means, see it in person or have someone knowledgeable put their eyes and hands on it. Crafty camerawork can hide more than it shows.

Thank you for your service!

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another Q is where do you live or plan on registering ? Some stats you need to budget serious coin to make it happen ..no matter the truck
 

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typically it'll be much easier to title and license your new truck if its already been titled and licensed in the US vs just imported. i.e in Wisconsin if you import a truck directly to you here you can ONLY title and register it as a classic vehicle which means certain restrictions on use and alterations. BUT if you buy a truck already imported and registered elsewere you can title it however you want i.e regular use
 

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Absent covid you might enjoy a trip over to the uk. Lots of very friendly Defender guys there and r you could learn a lot. There are also a few outfits that can rent you a Defender with a tent to hoon around in.

Don't be too afraid of high miles some very decent trucks have quite high miles.

Doors can be a pain in the neck as are electrical issues if you aren't that way inclined.



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Discussion Starter #8
This is a good place to start:


I would also strongly recommend buying one that has already been imported and by a reputable seller. It's not hard to find reviews good and bad on this forum (stay clear of Alpine Element). And by all means, see it in person or have someone knowledgeable put their eyes and hands on it. Crafty camerawork can hide more than it shows.

Thank you for your service!

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Thanks to you Terrapintige and all the other responses for the great information. Much appreciated!
 

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biggest thing I would look for now having one already is rust as mentioned, and any signs of non-standard or non factory work, especially electrical. A slightly rusty vehicle that is completely factory untouched, is probably better than a cleaner one with tons of wiring work done, UNLESS its that rare 0.001% type of person that labeled everything like a NASA engineer.
 

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I just looked up MOT records on my truck, had not seen before pretty neat
what I got was a unrestored mess but preferable to getting a restored with the bad parts hidden.
 

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I just looked up MOT records on my truck, had not seen before pretty neat
what I got was a unrestored mess but preferable to getting a restored with the bad parts hidden.
The MOT records also give a strong clue as to how well it was loved, lots of advisories and failed routine maintenance items are never a good sign . Year on year passes with no rust is a Unicorn in the old LR world although many are described that way by sellers !
 

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Good vids. Guy is firmly grounded on planet earth. Examples were pretty shot, so not a lot of the finer points were covered. Look for oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil. Alum body panels that corrode require replacement. Bent ones are difficult to fix right. Rear x-members often are in the worst shape of any part of the frame. Many frames have been undercoated or rust-proofed(?) right over rust. Engine type has a big impact on pricing. Age is less important than mileage. Condition is more important than anything. A good inspection will make it obvious whether the previous owners addressed mechanical issues from the bottom up and from the inside out, or prioritized cosmetics/macho mods and ended up with lipstick on a pig. I keep seeing Defenders on BAT with snorkels that are not plumbed to the air intakes. It's that kind of thing that shouts Bodge Alert!
 

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If you're looking for an RHD 300tdi, I'd look to South Africa (or Australia) rather than the U.K. Climate is drier and prices are still based in reality. If you're willing to buy a 1997 and store it for a year, you'll be able to select from a better pool of trucks.
 

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If you're looking for an RHD 300tdi, I'd look to South Africa (or Australia) rather than the U.K. Climate is drier and prices are still based in reality. If you're willing to buy a 1997 and store it for a year, you'll be able to select from a better pool of trucks.
Depending on where you are based - standard non-galv bulkhead/standard non-galv doors will be a liability regardless in the future. Strongly suggest having a good understanding of what the truck will represent for you.
 

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Fellow Defender Source Members -

I'm in the market for a 110 RHD, preferably a 300 TDI and starting to look seriously at several postings. I've searched the forum, but not been able for find a resources that details a diligence checklist for evaluating a 110? Other than the main threads on legal vehicles, rust, title, Bring a Trailer postings, can anyone point me to resources to make sure that I am asking the right questions?

Thank you in advance,
Col Matt Swindle, US Marines
 

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Another point to consider is that RHD configuration sucks in the US! Drive-up bank tellers, fast food, toll roads all present issues. The videos present some excellent points. I've owned and restored them for years ... any old car will require weekends spinning a wernch!😆😄😁
 

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Matt
Welcome to the Rover world. I got a 85 RHD LR110 back in 2010, while at 2d MLG.
Lots of good advice provided above. Rust is probably one of the bigger considerations, as well as ensuring all the original import paperwork is in order. Any issues there can cause much headache down the road.
RHD is a preference, with lots of “issues” as JohnBullsBollocks aptly points out, but it is fun and can be part of the “what’s different about your truck”.
Last thing is there is no such thing as a “perfect” truck. All have warts and will require much personal involvement or really deep pockets and a reliable rover mech nearby.
Feel free to reach out. I learned a lot the hard way. And wouldn’t trade either trucks for nothing.
Sf
Mark Hollahan
Retired Col of Marines
Richlands. NC
 
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