110 2 Door Dormobile Build Up
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Months ago was able to devote an hour here and an hour there and was able to have some friends paint the top in July and in August help with the install.
We dilled the holes for the metal frame that goes around the perimeter of the opening cut into the 110 roof.
I was convalescing after some surgery, so could not lift anything nor do much, but with all the help was able to install the Dormobile top onto the 110 roof.
We were able to hang the fiberglass top up and find the position of the 4 corners for the canopy canvas that goes between the fiberglass top and roof.
Then my friends flipped the top over and drilled the holes for the 4 aluminum strips that hold the canvas in place.
Next the hinges were marked with the top sitting on the 110 roof and after the fiberglass top was removed, the hinges were fitted to the 110 roof.
We made some aluminum plates to reinforce the roof that were fitted to the inside.
Next, the Fiberglass top was put into it's final position and the holes drilled for the hinges.
Then the fiberglass top was removed and the reinforcement plates fitted with the stainless bolts and calking.
Two friends fitted the top into it's final resting place and fastened the hinge nuts.
Then the center lifting bar was installed and the brackets for the top prop rods made by a local machine shop.
Some aircraft quick release pins were located the correct size and length and then the top was lifted in place with the prop rods holding it up.
Prior to this we had to prop the top up with a 2 X 2 cut to the estimated length that the top would be when extended.
When each canvas support rib was in place, the canvas was punched with an awl and each position pop riveted through the material to attach the velcro straps that hold the ribs to the inside of the canvas.
Then the 4 strips that secure the canvas to the 110 roof were fitted.
Finally after many hours of help from friends, the top was mounted to the vehicle.
It took 3 friends to lift the entire assembly in place.
We were so happy with the outcome.
It only took about 2 hours to remove the old roof and fit the Dormobile roof.
As soon as I get a set of latches from Dormobile UK, the assemble will be fully functional.
I can't thank my friends enough for all their work and the successful outcome.
They gave up their Saturdays, just to finish this project.
After observing and helping a little here and there, I think the next one would take half the time we spent figuring out what to do along the way as the instructions were quite general.
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Click to enlarge.
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We dilled the holes for the metal frame that goes around the perimeter of the opening cut into the 110 roof.
I was convalescing after some surgery, so could not lift anything nor do much, but with all the help was able to install the Dormobile top onto the 110 roof.
We were able to hang the fiberglass top up and find the position of the 4 corners for the canopy canvas that goes between the fiberglass top and roof.
Then my friends flipped the top over and drilled the holes for the 4 aluminum strips that hold the canvas in place.
Next the hinges were marked with the top sitting on the 110 roof and after the fiberglass top was removed, the hinges were fitted to the 110 roof.
We made some aluminum plates to reinforce the roof that were fitted to the inside.
Next, the Fiberglass top was put into it's final position and the holes drilled for the hinges.
Then the fiberglass top was removed and the reinforcement plates fitted with the stainless bolts and calking.
Two friends fitted the top into it's final resting place and fastened the hinge nuts.
Then the center lifting bar was installed and the brackets for the top prop rods made by a local machine shop.
Some aircraft quick release pins were located the correct size and length and then the top was lifted in place with the prop rods holding it up.
Prior to this we had to prop the top up with a 2 X 2 cut to the estimated length that the top would be when extended.
When each canvas support rib was in place, the canvas was punched with an awl and each position pop riveted through the material to attach the velcro straps that hold the ribs to the inside of the canvas.
Then the 4 strips that secure the canvas to the 110 roof were fitted.
Finally after many hours of help from friends, the top was mounted to the vehicle.
It took 3 friends to lift the entire assembly in place.
We were so happy with the outcome.
It only took about 2 hours to remove the old roof and fit the Dormobile roof.
As soon as I get a set of latches from Dormobile UK, the assemble will be fully functional.
I can't thank my friends enough for all their work and the successful outcome.
They gave up their Saturdays, just to finish this project.
After observing and helping a little here and there, I think the next one would take half the time we spent figuring out what to do along the way as the instructions were quite general.
.
Click to enlarge.
.
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14,193 Posts
Looks great Robert
Joined
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11,590 Posts
While at home recouping, there was time to think about wiring and how to set up various power sources from the car battery and the auxiliary battery bank.
The one simple thing that I kept pondering was that when the engine is running, you want to draw power from the car battery and when the engine is not running, you want to draw power from the auxiliary battery bank.
When camping, this is true of interior lights, charging up phones, running a 12V fridge, but other things as well.
How about the backup lights?
Wouldn't it be useful to be able to run the backup lights off the car battery when the engine is running, but then be able to switch on the backup lamps when setting up camp at night without having to keep the engine running or the ignition switched on.
There is one easy solution to achieve this using a standard 5 post relay.
When the engine is running everything is powered from the car starting battery and alternator and when the engine is not running, power is sourced from the auxiliary battery bank.
For the interior lights, charging sockets, and fridge:
86 (+) Ignition
85 (-) Ground
30 (+) Output to interior lights, charging sockets, and fridge
87a (+) Power from auxiliary battery bank
87 (+) Power from car battery
For the backup lights, same principal, but with a separate switch.
When the switch is off, the backup lamps work as designed.
When reverse gear is selected when the engine is running, the backup lights are powered from the car battery.
When the switch is on, the backup lights come on and are powered from the auxiliary battery bank.
86 (+) On off switch
85 (-) Ground
30 (+) Output to backup lamps
87a (+) Power from backup light switch
87 (+) Power from auxiliary battery bank
The one simple thing that I kept pondering was that when the engine is running, you want to draw power from the car battery and when the engine is not running, you want to draw power from the auxiliary battery bank.
When camping, this is true of interior lights, charging up phones, running a 12V fridge, but other things as well.
How about the backup lights?
Wouldn't it be useful to be able to run the backup lights off the car battery when the engine is running, but then be able to switch on the backup lamps when setting up camp at night without having to keep the engine running or the ignition switched on.
There is one easy solution to achieve this using a standard 5 post relay.
When the engine is running everything is powered from the car starting battery and alternator and when the engine is not running, power is sourced from the auxiliary battery bank.
For the interior lights, charging sockets, and fridge:
86 (+) Ignition
85 (-) Ground
30 (+) Output to interior lights, charging sockets, and fridge
87a (+) Power from auxiliary battery bank
87 (+) Power from car battery
For the backup lights, same principal, but with a separate switch.
When the switch is off, the backup lamps work as designed.
When reverse gear is selected when the engine is running, the backup lights are powered from the car battery.
When the switch is on, the backup lights come on and are powered from the auxiliary battery bank.
86 (+) On off switch
85 (-) Ground
30 (+) Output to backup lamps
87a (+) Power from backup light switch
87 (+) Power from auxiliary battery bank
Joined
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11,590 Posts
Here's a few more pictures of the work that was dome by friends over the summer.
A good washing this weekend and some fresh paint next year will go a long way to improve the appearance.
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Click to enlarge.
.
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
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A good washing this weekend and some fresh paint next year will go a long way to improve the appearance.
.
Click to enlarge.
.
Joined
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11,590 Posts
Dormobile produced a few LHD 110 conversions in the 1990s based on the top opening from the right side.
A few of them were 5 door 110 station wagons that had the factory seats removed and replaced with dormatic seats.
These LHD dive 110 Dormobiles were different than the earlier IIA and Series III that had the top opening from the left. The 110 dormatic seats were quite different from the earlier ones as well.
Years ago, did a mock-up with 109 dormobile seats in a 110 and the seats didn't fit.
The body of a 110 5 door wagon is very different from a 109 5 door wagon body.
This week a friend and I fitted the latches.
The 110 and 109 roof is also different enough that the 109 style latches offered by Dormobile didn't fit either, so we used Land Rover military hood latches.
We used a second catch to lock the latch and prevent it from swinging against the rood side when the top is raised.
.
Click to enlarge
.
A few of them were 5 door 110 station wagons that had the factory seats removed and replaced with dormatic seats.
These LHD dive 110 Dormobiles were different than the earlier IIA and Series III that had the top opening from the left. The 110 dormatic seats were quite different from the earlier ones as well.
Years ago, did a mock-up with 109 dormobile seats in a 110 and the seats didn't fit.
The body of a 110 5 door wagon is very different from a 109 5 door wagon body.
This week a friend and I fitted the latches.
The 110 and 109 roof is also different enough that the 109 style latches offered by Dormobile didn't fit either, so we used Land Rover military hood latches.
We used a second catch to lock the latch and prevent it from swinging against the rood side when the top is raised.
.
Click to enlarge
.
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Having fun..
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