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  #1  
Old May 6th, 2018, 12:47 PM
Banmj
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mark bannon
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Battery not charging.

I have a Series 3 with a 2.5 na. Battery died and I noticed the charge light on dash wasn't coming on when key was turned. Bulb is good. Tested alternator and it is not charging. Would a bad alternator keep the dash charge light from coming on?
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  #2  
Old May 6th, 2018, 01:00 PM
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Rob Dennis
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Also check that there is 12v going to that light with the ignition on.
The circuit that runs through that light is grounded by the alternator, when it isn't charging to turn that light on. It also uses the voltage though to start charging. If you don't have voltage going to the idiot light and thus the D+ post on the alternator, the alternator will not charge.
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  #3  
Old May 6th, 2018, 02:43 PM
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Yes. Most likely a wiring issue.
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  #4  
Old May 6th, 2018, 08:17 PM
Banmj
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mark bannon
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I'm getting 12 volts to the idiot light when key is turned on so this means its a grounding issue on alternator?
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  #5  
Old May 6th, 2018, 11:53 PM
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Rob Dennis
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I'd ground the small wire going to the alternator, and if the light comes on (with the ignition on) you need to replace/repair your alternator.
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  #6  
Old May 7th, 2018, 03:22 PM
Banmj
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mark bannon
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I grounded the small wire going to the alternator, and the light did come on (with the ignition on).

I took out alternator, opened it up and there was a loose screw that i think had something to do with proper grounding. Put it back together. Put it back in, and everything running good again. Thanks for your help.
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  #7  
Old January 31st, 2019, 10:26 AM
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Mike Shaw
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Thanks guys !
I might have the same problem. This gives me a place to start (no pun intended).


I do not have a charge light, only the ammeter with a plus 30 and minus 30 and zero in the middle. The needle is always centered. How can I interpret this? With engine running, reading at the battery terminals is 11.67 volts, and car will not start without a jump in this freezing cold weather.

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S58_rNdK1lc/XFMTQOsfrdI/AAAAAAAAHZA/K7lJOuHap6YDyijwlSXxWL15gO2b1qMBgCLcBGAs/s640/Dash_600x450.jpg" width="640"

Also - there is a big light bulb in the center of my dash. That is always on no matter what when I turn on the ignition. Is that okay? What does it mean?





Thanks!
Mike Shaw
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  #8  
Old January 31st, 2019, 11:00 AM
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You need to look at what exists. It is rare that these 50+ year old vehicle still have the stock charging system and wiring. The stock system is a dynamo with external voltage regulator. All stuff that does not exist anymore and usually is not repaired, but thrown away and replaced with an alternator. Really you need someone that understands 1950s car electrics and can troubleshoot it in person. Trying to work it out across the internet is extremely painful.

11.67 Volts is a drained battery. There is no charging happening. You need to be over 13 Volts to get any charge at all.
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  #9  
Old January 31st, 2019, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonQuixote View Post
Also - there is a big light bulb in the center of my dash. That is always on no matter what when I turn on the ignition. Is that okay? What does it mean?


Thanks!
Mike Shaw
I believe the big bulb is the charge light. You should get a manual.
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  #10  
Old January 31st, 2019, 11:08 AM
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And a voltmeter / multimeter they are about $7
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  #11  
Old January 31st, 2019, 11:10 AM
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Yes, it should be the charge warning light telling you are not getting a charge.
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  #12  
Old January 31st, 2019, 12:28 PM
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Mike Shaw
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Thanks guys-

I do have the Autobooks workshop manual and the Series II Instruction manual but didn't understand it, and it's starting to make sense, and it's been slow going. The light in the middle is called an "Ignition Warning Light." This light is always on, so I thought, great, all okay. I'm thinking that the Ammeter was telling me that my battery was not charging, but I didn't know how to read it.



Looking at the instruction manual- I finally get it. That is the charging light. It actually says the light appears when the dynamo is not charging or the charging rate is low. It will go out when the engine speed rises. So thanks for pointing me back to the book.



Agreed, that I need to find someone who understands what I've got under the hood, and I'm hoping eventually to be that guy too. Sorry for being slow on the uptake here, but I've already learned a lot in the last six months and I feel like I'll get there eventually.


I appreciate the help you all have given, and especially your patience. With determination, I'm confident I'll get there. I knew when I bought this Land Rover that it was a commitment to a new way of life and learning a whole new set of skills.



Thanks again for all the advice, and I'll let you all know what I find out as I work through this charging problem.


Thanks!
Mike
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  #13  
Old January 31st, 2019, 12:53 PM
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Mike:
Pull the alternator (edit I meant generator, see 3rd sentence) and take the 2 long screws out, then remove the rear cover.
Verify that the 2 brushes are in good condition.
This is the most common point of failure with a dynamo (generator) charging system.
You don't need to add any more gauges as the ammeter is wired directly across the main alternator output.
Also note that if the ammeter is burned out, the current can't get to the battery.
When you turn on the lights, the ammeter should show a discharge reading (needle turning to the (-) side).
Hope this helps your troubleshooting.
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  #14  
Old January 31st, 2019, 01:33 PM
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Take a picture of the engine bay showing the dynamo to see if it is original. There must be someone around here that can look in person. Troubleshooting with someone that does not understand the electrical theory would be a very slow and painful process. Nobody has any way of know what things have been changed in the past 50 years. Personally, I've never seen a truck that has not had its wiring substantial modified by previous owners. Troubleshooting that requires someone that knows what they are doing and LOT of time.
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  #15  
Old January 31st, 2019, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Take a picture of the engine bay showing the dynamo to see if it is original. There must be someone around here that can look in person. Troubleshooting with someone that does not understand the electrical theory would be a very slow and painful process. Nobody has any way of know what things have been changed in the past 50 years. Personally, I've never seen a truck that has not had its wiring substantial modified by previous owners. Troubleshooting that requires someone that knows what they are doing and LOT of time.
COME ON DOWN, to Galveston and look at our S1 62 years young and all original wiring, generator and a big red light that glows when not running, and goes out when idling. Lol
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