I’ve had my D90 for a while (since new in 94 actually) and have always resisted drilling extra holes or making irreversible modifications. I’ve been thinking for a while about how to securely mount a Hi-Lift jack and finally came up with a clean simple method. You’ll need to find a 2 foot long piece of 1 1/4” x 1/4” flat stock and be able to drill 6 holes.
It turns out that some of the roll bar mounts - actually the bulkhead removal bar mounts - line up exactly with the end holes on a 60” Hi-Lift jack. Take a look at the pictures. The 2 holes that bolt through on each side of the truck are 3 1/2” apart. The holes to mount the jack are about 4 1/2 inches above the top bulkhead bar hole, although as long as you have some space above the top of the rear wheel boxes it’s fine. A couple of 3/4” nuts work perfectly as spacers, and 2 1/2” x 1/2” carriage bolts and wing nuts secure the jack. The only fiddly part was cutting the clearance for the bulkhead removal bar tubes, which you’ll see when you go to bolt the mounts in place. I ground them out with a bench grinder, but you could easily file the clearance as well.
I welded the 3/4” nuts onto the flat stock before painting them, but it bolts together just fine with the carriage bolts if you don’t have a welder. The base plate for the jack goes under the seat along with all the other tow straps, shackles etc.
The angle of the mounts clears the bulkhead removal bar perfectly so nothing hits or rattles. The overall length of the 2 pieces of flat stock was about 10” each. I’d gotten rid of my 48” Hi-Lift years ago because I couldn’t figure out an easy way to carry it without banging around, plus on the few times I had to use it it the length was marginal to lift high enough from a slider to change a wheel. The 60” jack should cover that, and this mount is solid.
Total cost - about $10 for the nuts, bolts and flat stock, And the new jack only cost $105 on Amazon!
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