88 Land Rover 110 CSW Rebuild - Page 3 - Defender Source
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  #41  
Old June 15th, 2018, 01:28 AM
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Jim Cheney
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Great stuff, I love following this one.
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  #42  
Old June 15th, 2018, 01:49 AM
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Looking really good!
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  #43  
Old August 7th, 2018, 11:23 PM
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Finished the doors

So, finished the doors. Ended up installing all new felt channels. Plastic pieces looked tired and I contemplated painting them for a minute (per the Defender resto manual), but then tried Meguiar's Ultimate Black paste (used to be called "back to black", but, I guess, Amy's IP owners got to them) and it worked like a damn. Just apply and polish with a regular applicator or microfiber cloth and it looks like new again.






The handles were rubbing against the door skin, so I went drastic and cut them down and used the closest hole. No more rubbing or sticking:


Side-by-side comparison of Original Land Rover (right) and aftermarket (Bearmach) (left) locks. So far, I've replaced both front ones after just 6 months of occasional use and am now waiting for the rear ones to go soon too, at which point I'll put original locks in as well. Bearmach ones are [email protected]$!, made of tinfoil and thin plastic, very flimsy and weigh about 1/2 of the originals:




Now the doors look too nice for the rest of the truck, I really hope to get to strip and paint it some time in the near future.....
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  #44  
Old August 7th, 2018, 11:44 PM
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More things taken apart :-)

Now, I got bored and decided I didn't have enough things taken apart in my house, so I decided to rebuild the two winches that I've had laying around.


A while back I bought me 2 winches as parts, Warn M12000 and M15000, with an intention of putting eventually them on my Landy.
I figured I needed at least 12K Lbs, calculating curb weight at 8K Lbs and multiplying it by a factor of 1.5. I then came across a Kijiji ad for 6 different Warn winches, the only working one being the smallest, at 8k Lbs, which I thought was too small for me, so I picked up a 12K and a 15K instead.
I'm a much smarter man now, knowing that most Defenders have no larger than a 9K Lbs winch (including the LR's own Special Expedition Vehicles)....

Anyway, both winches I picked up wouldn't free-spool, were all covered in oil for whatever reason, the motor on M15 was seized, and on M12 was somewhat alive, but eventually shorted during testing. M15 lived a very hard life and had its tie rods ground by cable as well as bent, so it looked horrible.


M15000:


M12000:


I bought me a new M15 contactor pack and one new motor, along with all new bushings and gaskets and a new brake.
I found the best video on a typical Warn winch rebuild, that covers 90% of the required knowledge, and I'll cover what was different for me in my rebuild below.

The plan is to just rebuild M12 and sell it to buy a smaller winch to put in the rear, and rebuild M15 (powdercoating all exposed parts) with the new contactor pack and motor, convert it to synthetic rope and put in the front.
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  #45  
Old August 9th, 2018, 07:45 PM
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Winches - M12000

M12000 pulled apart:



Motor brushes looking good:



Stator looks grimy, so needs cleaning and armature studs need cleaning to restore insulation (which caused the motor to short). Rotor was in good shape, needing just a quick polish:



A little trick that helps compress and remove the brake in one piece (cable tie works just as well, or even just a few wraps of electrical tape):



To remove the gear from the gear housing you will need to remove two retaining rings (the video I referenced above fails to mention this fact):



REASSEMBLY - M12000
All gears were in great shape, hardly any wear on them. All received a diesel bath and thorough brushing prior to reassembly.


Older gears installed inside the gear housing have balls, whereas newer ones don't (giggity). The easiest method I found to work for me was to partially slide the gear in the housing at an angle that leaves just enough of a gap to insert balls into the groove and send them rolling down. When the last ball is inserted, I leveled the gear and lowered it down. Easy and fast:

I used just a super-light coat of gun oil on the surface of this gear to make it easier get it in, most will say you shouldn't use any oil at all, but I found that just a bit of gun oil helps without having any long-term adverse effects.

Again, older gear housings have a different retainer for the clutch lever. Both use ball and spring, but newer ones have a screw that holds them in place, whereas older ones use a pin, as illustrated:



All gears are lubed with just enough of Aeroshell 64, the gear housing is assembled on the drum support with all-new gaskets and bushings, cleaned motor assembled into the other drum support and tested (runs well now after cleaning), drum brake and shaft reinserted, and the entire winch is assembled together.
Solenoid pack installed and the winch is tested for freespooling, and winching in and out.




PS: Eagle eyes may be able to spot what's wrong with the above picture :-)
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  #46  
Old August 9th, 2018, 08:06 PM
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Alex
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Winch rebuild - M15000

M15000 gear housing pulled apart:


Once again, despite the ugly looks, gears looked almost brand-new, so, again, a diesel bath and thorough brushing.

I then left the gear housing, drum supports and drum with the powder-coaters.... BTW grey powder coat is approx. 30% more expensive than black.

Motor was in far worse shape, the brush holder (which in newer motors is one piece, that has brushes and an integrated bearing bracket) was toast: one of the brushes appears to have been worn beyond normal and caused the plastic holder to overheat and start melting:


The piece is now obsolete and old stocks sells for silly money (about 50% of the new motor), so an initial decision to rebuild this motor to keep as a spare was quickly abandoned.

Once again, all gears carefully lubed with Aeroshell 64 and assembled in place with 2 bolts used as guides and to keep the gaskets in place:


And here's the housing assembled on the drum support:


Brand new motor installed into another drum support:



And now I'm still waiting for brand new bushings and stickers from WARN to arrive to finish the reassembly. Hoping to finish tomorrow.
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  #47  
Old April 10th, 2019, 10:36 AM
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A bit of an update: this truck is currently my daily driver, and has being going strong, with no major issues to date.
Today, however, she decided she had enough of that: standing at the intersection, heater fan all of a sudden quit working, brake check light came on and all followed by plume of smoke coming from the fuse panel area.
I cleared the intersection and pulled over. Fan restarted in the process, but I shut it off right away. Smoke subsided pretty quick, brake light cleared, and I was able to just get to my office parking lot. I always drive around with a fire extinguisher, so I figured I had a good chance to kill any fire if there was one, hence the no shutting off the engine right away.


Stopped the car, shut off the engine, popped the hood and pulled the fuse panel out, and went around to have a looksee. All fuses and relays were good, wires in the fuse box were fine, without any signs of overheating.
However, in the engine bay, the White/Brown wire from the brake pressure differential switch was toasted from the engine bay connector up:



This is the wire that supposedly goes to the dash light. The black/white wire going to the brake check relay seems to be OK.
No other wire seems to have been damaged.


I'm wondering what the frack went on. Can't have any better idea than just the wire insulation failure and a subsequent short. Brake check light seems to come on with ignition on and then disappear on engine restart, so, still working correctly.
I will put electrical tape over the exposed wire for now and still plan on driving it back home tonight and then pulling the covers to inspect the rest of the wire.


Any other ideas?
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From another forum on "what killed the British auto industry":
- "I'm pretty sure it was Joseph Lucas."
- "Ah, The Prince of Darkness with his three position switch: "off, flicker and dim"."
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  #48  
Old May 9th, 2019, 10:32 PM
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Anyway, the above electrical problem has been resolved, details are in another thread. Incorrect wiring was the issue, surprised it lasted this long before deciding to manifest itself.

In the meantime, it's been a while since I wanted to do something about the rear brakes and leaking diff flange seal. But instead, I got me a whole new old axle from a fellow forum member.

We've recently moved and I couldn't think of a better way to introduce us to the new (and newly built) neighborhood than by doing a single-hand rear-axle swap on the street (my garage sucks now).

Here we go:

Vehicle jacked up and supported, new axle wheeled close by:




Brakes and everything else that needs to be disconnected, is disconnected. Axle jacked up to work on the big bolts:


You can just remove lower arms from the axle and replace it this way, but, as it turned out, the new axle had the lower arms brackets repaired and they put up a huge fight, so, I had to remove the lower arms completely to reinstall them. Axle now pulled out:




Springs went into the new axle, it rolled in, brakes connected, and everything bolted back together.
Good as new again!
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From another forum on "what killed the British auto industry":
- "I'm pretty sure it was Joseph Lucas."
- "Ah, The Prince of Darkness with his three position switch: "off, flicker and dim"."
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  #49  
Old August 2nd, 2019, 10:26 AM
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Kicking it up a notch: decided that I was tired of looking at the lump of dirt and oil that my gearbox and T-case were, and pulled them out. I had a sneaking suspicion that the Ontario safety inspection won't let me pass with the leaks I've had (we've moved again and I'm doing an out-of-province inspection) and besides I wasn't entirely happy with the noise and notchiness/backlash.



I followed the WSM method, with the exception of removing the gear selector housings completely to easier clear the seatbox instead of just lifting the vehicle higher, removing the crossmember and tilting more as described in the WSM.
My crossmember is seating in there very tight (as in, get a bottle jack to spread the frame tight) and I didn't want to remove it. With the gear selector housings off, the gearbox/tcase assy clears everything nicely. Aside from disconnecting the cables and wires, I only needed to remove the exhaust pipe middle section and floors/tunnel.



I found that the LT77 mainshaft and LT230 input gear were worn (probably would last me another 20-30K but would've stripped afterwards). So, replacing those.


Alright, LT230 stripped down to major pieces:


------ Follow up post added August 2nd, 2019 07:30 AM ------

Not very happy with the diff backlash:


I don't believe one should rotate as far as 30 degrees before the other one is engaged. If you have an opinion on this, please, feel free to chime in:
https://youtu.be/DPAFgAUE1Qc


Front output shaft splines look a bit flat. Rear shaft doesn't look too bad, and I haven't yet stripped the diff to check the gears.


Parts got held up due to the long weekend here, unfortunately, so, I'll be chomping on the bit instead of doing much rebuilding this weekend.


Stripping the centre diff tonight and then on to the LT77.
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From another forum on "what killed the British auto industry":
- "I'm pretty sure it was Joseph Lucas."
- "Ah, The Prince of Darkness with his three position switch: "off, flicker and dim"."
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  #50  
Old August 2nd, 2019, 10:38 AM
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T-case rebuild seems timely.
It doesn't appear it was ever rebuilt or, at the very least, it hasn't been touched for a very long time. Still has paper gaskets all around, felt washer on the drive flanges were reduced to dust, and a bunch of other signs that work on it was overdue.

Plan is to replace the input shaft with a cross-drilled one; replace 2-piece diff cross pin with the new HD one-piece version from Ashcroft. Replace all seals, o-rings and bearings. Install new drive flanges. Possibly replace the worn out front output shaft and planetary gears.
Rest of the gears look decent. Replacing all gaskets with Hylomar 100 RTV sealant.

Intermediate shaft hole seems a bit out of round, so, ordered a sleeve from Ashcroft, and hoping to use one of the local machine shops to shrink-fit it to avoid typical O-ring leakage fiascos in the future.

Ashcroft's rebuilt unit would've costed me ~CAD1700 delivered. We'll see where I will end up with parts alone.
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From another forum on "what killed the British auto industry":
- "I'm pretty sure it was Joseph Lucas."
- "Ah, The Prince of Darkness with his three position switch: "off, flicker and dim"."
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  #51  
Old August 6th, 2019, 09:15 AM
RickM
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Rick Mabus
95 D-90 ST
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Man. Your build is almost a mirror image of what I think I am headed into. Nice work. I may be in touch with you for advice.
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  #52  
Old August 6th, 2019, 09:43 AM
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Alex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickM View Post
Man. Your build is almost a mirror image of what I think I am headed into. Nice work. I may be in touch with you for advice.
Sure thing, feel free to reach out. Make sure you follow the "if it ain't broken - don't fix it" principle religiously :-)

In my case, if I didn't have to take my truck through yet another safety inspection because we moved again (and into the jurisdiction with somewhat more stringent inspection rules) I wouldn't even be touching the gearbox and t-case until they died on me. Almost the same cost of rebuild once you open them up, whether partial or full.

------ Follow up post added August 6th, 2019 06:50 AM ------

LT230 parts are enroute.

LT77 pulled apart in the meantime. Will inspect and order parts today. Doesn't look too bad (knock on wood), the mainshaft is up for replacement, as planned. Additionally will do all the bearings, seals, O-rings, circlips, oil pump and minor bits.

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From another forum on "what killed the British auto industry":
- "I'm pretty sure it was Joseph Lucas."
- "Ah, The Prince of Darkness with his three position switch: "off, flicker and dim"."
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  #53  
Old August 6th, 2019, 09:07 PM
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Part of the fun of opening things up is forensics: found this inside extension casing and took me a while to figure out what it is. Can you guess where it came from?





It looks like a plunger of the reverse lamp switch. Previous Owner must have had it sheared off and just put the new one in.

This couldn't have been healthy for the poor tranny. Good thing it's aluminum and softer than most parts there (except for the bronze baulk tings and forks, of course)...
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From another forum on "what killed the British auto industry":
- "I'm pretty sure it was Joseph Lucas."
- "Ah, The Prince of Darkness with his three position switch: "off, flicker and dim"."
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  #54  
Old August 14th, 2019, 01:44 AM
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"Hey good looking, whatcha got cooking?"
Heating bearings to fit. Works like a charm, they just drop in. Heating T-case housings to 100C in the oven also does wonders, output shaft bearings just drop in and won't need any pressing or banging.


New assembly seems to sit higher than the old. To the point that when the front casing is tightened, the shaft wouldn't even rotate anymore (with the reused old front output shaft casing shim).

Will remove the old shim, measure play and put a thinner shim maybe. A bit concerned, but everything seems to be properly seated, so, not sure what else can be done. Did a trial fit with the intermediate shaft gears and it seems to work OK, will have to come back to it tomorrow.



And of course the intermediate shaft O-rings that were supposed to be part of the RTC3890 kit that I bought years ago, are not there, just the front one is there, but not the back one. Fack! Will have to call local LR stealership tomorrow or find an equivalent.
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From another forum on "what killed the British auto industry":
- "I'm pretty sure it was Joseph Lucas."
- "Ah, The Prince of Darkness with his three position switch: "off, flicker and dim"."
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  #55  
Old August 14th, 2019, 09:36 AM
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First time I've seen your build, you've come a long way.


Did you put the gasket in before you tightened it. I was going to use RTV on mine but without the gasket in place it made the preload too tight. Small gasket-big difference lol


Sean
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  #56  
Old August 14th, 2019, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgo70 View Post

Did you put the gasket in before you tightened it. I was going to use RTV on mine but without the gasket in place it made the preload too tight. Small gasket-big difference lol

Sean
Converting to Hylomar RTV all around per the latest spec. Yes, you're right , it does change clearances, and that's what I believe is happening here as all other parts have been installed to the spec.
I have the Ashcroft shim kit, so, the plan is to remove the old shim, put the race back in without any shim at all, measure the float, and install the correct new shim for the float and preload. It seems that the intermediate shaft gears still work fine with the new offset, if they give me any grief then I'll go the gasket way.


Benefits of doing the work myself is that I'm not paying someone else to experiment on my behalf :-)
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From another forum on "what killed the British auto industry":
- "I'm pretty sure it was Joseph Lucas."
- "Ah, The Prince of Darkness with his three position switch: "off, flicker and dim"."
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  #57  
Old August 14th, 2019, 06:26 PM
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I keep joking that my Landy is now, essentially, a Lamborghini, because almost everything in it is hand-built by now.
And today that joke became one step closer to reality: the FRC2892 O-ring I picked up at a local LR dealership is, actually a Lamborghini part.



BTW, the Bearmach O-ring (brand new) it replaced truly pales in comparison: the Lambo O-ring is much softer and thicker than its Bearmach counterpart.

Turns out the P/Ns on the Land Rover Parts Catalogue are reversed and, while I went to buy both the front (mounted on the intermediate shaft) and the rear (mounted in the casing groove), the rear one that I haven't had at all and I thought I was getting today is on back-order until Friday, while the front one which I thought was the rear one I needed and made sure I got today is the Lambo part going in....
So, anyone doing this please, note that FRC2892 is the front (shaft - larger diameter) O-ring and FRC7439 is the rear (casing - smaller diameter) O-ring, opposite of what's shown on pages 387 and 384 of the old Land Rover parts catalogue. I think some of the MicroCats and RN website have picked up on that and fixed it on their pages.
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From another forum on "what killed the British auto industry":
- "I'm pretty sure it was Joseph Lucas."
- "Ah, The Prince of Darkness with his three position switch: "off, flicker and dim"."
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  #58  
Old August 14th, 2019, 06:42 PM
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Man, installing that Lambo O-ring definitely feels like it's improving the performance: t-case now feels like it was automatically converted from 1.4 to 1.2 gear ratio on the spot.

I think it will add at least 300BHPs to my rig and it'll be on par with any of the LS conversions or even that one rig with the Merlin engine in it. Definitely recommend it to anyone. Lamborghini P/N 0138485 if you were wondering what to get.
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From another forum on "what killed the British auto industry":
- "I'm pretty sure it was Joseph Lucas."
- "Ah, The Prince of Darkness with his three position switch: "off, flicker and dim"."
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  #59  
Old August 15th, 2019, 11:42 PM
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While I'm waiting for the effin O-ring, I did finish up the centre diff and output shafts/casings with the final preload.

Looking at a clean box with new shiny bolts makes me happy:


Front output flange gave me grief: new flange kit wouldn't fit right, mounting too close to the fully recessed seal and rubbing on it. Old flange had a gaping hole (as it was originally, which caused debris to enter and destroy the seal overtime (which is why subsequently LR redesigned the dust plate). New flange with reversed old design dust cover interfered with the casing now. So, the only config I found that worked was the old flange with the new dust cover. So, that's what's going in now. Don't understand why would LR redesign the depth of the flange sleeve (evident in the below picture).


LT77 rebuild started. Replaced bearings and races on the layshaft and constant pinion shaft. Rebuilding the main shaft tomorrow.
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From another forum on "what killed the British auto industry":
- "I'm pretty sure it was Joseph Lucas."
- "Ah, The Prince of Darkness with his three position switch: "off, flicker and dim"."
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  #60  
Old August 16th, 2019, 12:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vedrover View Post
M15000 gear housing pulled apart:


Once again, despite the ugly looks, gears looked almost brand-new, so, again, a diesel bath and thorough brushing.

I then left the gear housing, drum supports and drum with the powder-coaters.... BTW grey powder coat is approx. 30% more expensive than black.

Motor was in far worse shape, the brush holder (which in newer motors is one piece, that has brushes and an integrated bearing bracket) was toast: one of the brushes appears to have been worn beyond normal and caused the plastic holder to overheat and start melting:


The piece is now obsolete and old stocks sells for silly money (about 50% of the new motor), so an initial decision to rebuild this motor to keep as a spare was quickly abandoned.

Once again, all gears carefully lubed with Aeroshell 64 and assembled in place with 2 bolts used as guides and to keep the gaskets in place:


And here's the housing assembled on the drum support:


Brand new motor installed into another drum support:



And now I'm still waiting for brand new bushings and stickers from WARN to arrive to finish the reassembly. Hoping to finish tomorrow.
Which paint did you use?
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