2001 110 300TDI Adventure Georgia Build - Page 4 - Defender Source
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  #61  
Old July 23rd, 2019, 09:16 PM
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Jeez, speaking of seats, I have:


Jeep front seats
Defender front seats
Mini Cooper front seats
Audi A4 front and rear seats
Escalade rear seats


All taking up precious garage space lol. I think I've decided on the Mini Cooper fronts and the A4 rears.


Got a couple of more days in and I didn't have the transfer case mounts as spec'd out in the BOM. It was probably be over $400 Canadian by the time I got them so I tried to figure something out. Turns out the right hand side bolts right up once you get the engine and tranny aligned. I took two tries at it to get the transfer case on from underneath before I decided to remove the seat box yet again. Two more tries and I realized I forgot to trim the tab off the rear of the transmission.....arms were shaking by now. Finally got it on and bolted up when I realized I'm probably going to have to pull it again when I put my wiring harness on, the transmission plug is tucked right in there.


For the left side of the transfer case it mounts to the adapter so I probably could have just built a spacer but I have a ton of Jeep parts I thought I'd put to use. I cut the end off one of the control arms that has a slight forward offset and new soft bushings that happened to be perfect. Welded it to a plate and done. For the frame I just cut some tabs and boxed them in, should be good to go. Of course the only grade 10 bolt I had was about 2" too long lol.


Wanting to end on something easy, I re-enforced my brake pedal mount holes and put in the steering shaft.....took me two hours of messing around.....very hot and tired after that BS. Getting pretty tght around that left hand side engine bay.


Sean
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  #62  
Old July 23rd, 2019, 09:31 PM
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I didn't have much time today so I thought I'd figure out my transfer case cable shifter. I tried a few different positions, swapped cables etc and think I have it figured out where it's going. I'm suprised ho much you can bend these cables and they still move freely. I'm going to have to find a Disco 2 High/Low range shift shaft, I could just cut and weld but I would rather find one and just bolt it up.


Another problem with it is the CDL selector bracket is about 3/4" too close even when adjusted all the way back, I guess I'll just build a longer one and angle it up slightly to clear the transmission. Kinda tight as it is.


This time I was going to end on an easy note for sure. I had some left over brake caliper paint so I painted the transmission brake, put on new pads and cleaned it up. Looks new. Of course not having the cable hooked up I somehow managed to pull it off the pad lever and had to bugger around to get it back on, not easy.


Sean
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  #63  
Old August 11th, 2019, 10:27 PM
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Had some time the last couple days to get back at it. I've been trying to get my Audi A4 rear seats I bought mounted up in the rear. The size of them is perfect, the hard part is they don't have a frame, just a wire support structure that sits in a seat tub with all kinds of angles.


I pieced it together bit by bit making sure it was supported properly, like a jig saw puzzle. I had a sheet and a half of 1/8" aluminum so I decided to use that. Probably would have been easier to form 16g steel but I wanted to get back on the Tig welder, it's been a while. I figured no one would see this when I'm done so I could play around a bit and try to get my left hand working the torch. Needless to say that left hand made for a lot of tungsten sharpening lol.



I won't lie, that pan took me two solid days to get done and I spent a lot of time staring at it trying to figure out how I was going to mount it. The front slopes down 8 degrees and the back is at 65 degrees, I thought I was going to have to support the bottoms so I made some cradles which I didn't need. Finally just jumped in and got it done 14 hours later. I mounted it about 3" lower than the seats that were in it and slightly back. I'm 5'9" when I stretch and wear my boots and I have lots of leg room and head clearance is probably 6", just seemed like a better seating position. I gotta say that's a comfy seat.......on to the fronts tomorrow while I wait for some DOM tubing I ordered........


Sean
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  #64  
Old August 21st, 2019, 09:42 PM
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On to the front.


I tried to figure out how to make a seat box that wouldn't intrude on the original design, I didn't want to hack anything up or drill a bunch of holes, that was tough. I did some scientific reasearch and came to the conclusion that a 2x6, a 2x4, a 1x2 piece of steel and a 4x4 stacked on the frame gives a perfect ride height for a Mini Cooper seat height. I decided that welds can always be cut and ground down so that was better than a bunch of bolt holes. The way it sits now, I could jack the truck off my seat box lol. I had to make sure my doors were perfectly square because there wasn't going to be any changes made to the bulkhead or B-pillar once I'm done. Figured out one of my doors must have been reskinned sloppily making it about 1/4" thicker causing it to press against the windshield frame, gonna reskin in galvy so easy fix.....finally something easy.



Did an initial mock-up to figure out my dash, I'm sure it will change. Really don't like the steering wheel position.........more to that later.


Sean
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  #65  
Old August 21st, 2019, 10:01 PM
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I have a Restomod Heat/AC unit I want to incorporate, it's not that big but in a Defender it's proving to be a challenge. Seriously thought about this for about 4 hours and finally walked away. Came out next morning armed with some TIG wire and came up with a design. Started with the center console and worked my way out. Still have to cut in the Speedo and a few other things but this is the base. Used 1/8" aluminum so it's a little harder to work with but will be easier to weld bits and pieces. Had trouble with the TIG only to find out my cleaning action was on 20% %$#%^$#%^$#. Talk about frustrated, so stupid I moved on and will finish the center console later


Got it loosely mocked up only to realize it inter fears with the door handles, got that figured out with some English Wheel meditation time (not shown). Still far from done but it's cool to see it start to take shape. I'm building in slight gaps and figure I will do leather wrap.


Sean
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  #66  
Old August 27th, 2019, 01:28 PM
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That looks great! I can't wait to see your finished product.
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  #67  
Old August 27th, 2019, 05:25 PM
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Thanks, I can't wait either.


Got a little more done. Had to cut a section out for door handle access and make some end caps. I still have to smooth everything out and cut out the speedo section as well as cap the top section on the end. Tried to mold the caps to the door cards, looks tight in the picture but the cards are just taped on and will actually suck in a bit.



Tilt steering column just showed up today so I'll have to wait until next week to mount it and see how everything lines up. I just bought a new Momo steering wheel so I got lucky that the column adapter bolts right on where the Chevy one is mounted so it won't be extended out too far. Gonna have power windows and door locks with the switches on the center console so I don't have to worry about window cranks.



Also trying to find a cubby box latch that I like so the center console is on hold.


Finally, welded on some cross bracing under the back seat floor to stiffen the floors up.



Sean
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  #68  
Old August 27th, 2019, 05:41 PM
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Sean, not sure if it helps you but I’ve seen and love that some builders have used other bits from other Land Rover’s for interior items including console lids. I’ve currently got Disco 2 seats in my 110 and was thinking of trying an LR3 or 4 console w/cooler. Don’t do Disco seats though they are going to go eventually as they are just too high.
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  #69  
Old September 2nd, 2019, 09:15 PM
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Yeah, I've got some Mini Cooper seats that I would have had to modify the seat box to drop it about 5", that's why I just did a complete new seat frame and I'm putting dual batteries in the engine compartment where the heater was.......be a while before I get to that.


Tilt steering is in, took a little more effort than I expected but overall pretty easy with the exception of my further dash modification. I used a 32" Ididit column with a 1" DD shaft so it will be easy to get either a 1"dd to 3/4"dd u-joint but I'll probably get a new 1" shaft and run it to the steering box then I can get rid of those manky u-joints.



Just had to knock off a corner of the brake pedal assembly to fit the 2" shaft by, welded up a bottom clamp, firewall mount and a swivel ball mount through the dash which is 1/8" aluminum so it's good and solid. Has signal lights, hazards, and the horn already wired in and I think I just might add the high beam switch they offer.


Of course I had to mock it up again and make sure it fits. I'd say it's perfect cause I built it around me lol.


Sean
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  #70  
Old September 3rd, 2019, 12:08 AM
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Curious.... is this for you or a client? You talked about customizing for your height but somehow I thought it was a build for someone else? Makes 0 difference, it is just a curiosity. Either way, it is just as incredible...
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  #71  
Old September 3rd, 2019, 07:58 AM
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Thanks, just for me. I've wanted one since my old girlfriend made me watch 90210 back in the 90's and the guy on there had one. I enjoy the building probably more than the driving and I always have to have a project on the go or I spend too much money lol.


Sean
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  #72  
Old September 3rd, 2019, 08:28 PM
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Version 1 speedo cluster too big. Wall art it is........ugh. Beer time.


Sean
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  #73  
Old September 4th, 2019, 11:14 AM
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Thought about it over coffee this morning and decided there's nothing a 20 ton shop press and a couple cuts can't fix. Just have to flatten out the top now. It'll sit about an inch lower once I recess it and clean it up some more.


Sean
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  #74  
Old September 11th, 2019, 02:44 PM
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I think I'm finally done the dash board, drivers side that is, except for a bit more smoothing, skim coat, primer, paint, and wrapping in leather lol. I think I've had the left dash in and out 30-40 times, I'm so done with that.



After smashing down my bezel I spent the day trying to keep my fingers out of the english wheel to come up with a rear cover for the speedo. Actually took two tries and countless test fits. In the end it looks like a nice VW hubcap might have been easier to cut up. I t will be wrapped and I'll use stainless button head screws. I wanted to weld it in but there was no way to get the dash apart then. Right now the entire left side is held on with 9 bolts so it can be torn out easily.


I'm not 100% stoked on the speedo choice but it has all the warnings and stuff built in and will run off the can-bus so it is what it is.


Sean
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  #75  
Old September 11th, 2019, 09:00 PM
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Dash looks good...interesting to watch the fabrication.


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  #76  
Old September 11th, 2019, 10:18 PM
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Looks great!

I wish I've known you when I lived in Calgary - I needed someone with a proper Aluminum TIG machine, my MIG Spool gun ain't cutting it. Let alone someone with an English wheel :-)

Did you CAD the dash (or 3D-modeled it in any other way) or are you just winging it?

Whatcha plan for HVAC?
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  #77  
Old September 12th, 2019, 11:54 AM
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Thanks guys, sometimes I wonder if it's too out there for a Defender.


I got a Restomod heat/AC unit which was the cause of all this work lol. The picture shows how I modeled it with a TIG wire and then yes, a lot of winging it as I go along, you can probably tell by all the sharpie noted written on everything hahaha. I initially wanted a Land Rover of some kind look to it but that's out the window now.


Sean
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  #78  
Old Yesterday, 09:22 AM
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A little bit of slow progress lately but I'm almost done the center console now, I just don't want to cut any holes in it until I have my HVAC controls, stereo, switches etc. Just going to mount my shifters and cut those out for now and then take a break from the dash, getting kind of sick of working on it and mostly taking it out and putting it back in 1000 times.


For some reason at 8:00 last night after a couple of beers I decided I had to try out my new dimple dies and make a T-case shifter mount. Guess I should have gone one size smaller on the sides but it's solid and no one will see it once it gets closed up.


Also got a box from Speed Engineering that I was waiting for........the answer to the Gen 5 engine swap manifolds. Yea Baby!!!!! So happy about this one.
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Old Yesterday, 09:30 AM
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Okay, so I thought I'd post a bunch of pictures for anyone doing a Gen 5 L83 swap because these fit like they were custom made and only cost about $200 including gaskets, clamps, and O2 sensor stub outs.


Speed Engineering C-10 LT Chevy GMC Truck Headers LT1, LT4 (Conversion Swap)

Manufacturer Part Number: 25-1057-1


So you can see the worst offender is the drivers side stock manifold and then the new ones.
Only down side is the rubber spark plug boots touch so they will have to be changed out.


Sean
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Old Yesterday, 03:17 PM
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These pictures will probably make a little more sense for the shifter mounts. I find building the part is quick and easy, making it removable is the hard part.
I would like them reversed but the cable system wouldn't allow me to do that. Same set-up as my Jeep so I guess I can get used to it.

Sean
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