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  #161  
Old April 19th, 2019, 10:39 PM
Mr.BlueSky
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Miles W
1987 Land Rover 110 Tithonus
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Disassembling the wings went incredibly quick.

The longest part of the process was removing the wiring and labeling everything.

So fast I forgot to take detailed photos/instruction as it was very straight forward.

From memory to remove them:

- A few M10 bolts at the front down by the radiator support brackets.
- A couple more bolts at a bracket further back near the firewall down low.
- On the Tithonus trucks with the roll cage you have to unbolt the cage from the fender
- There were some more bolts up high on the firewall going into a nut bracket.

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- And finally some funky bolts along the edge of the wing going into the bulkhead...

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did I miss any?

Getting the heater box was off was easy as well. Two bolts at the bottom, and two at the top and the whole unit pulls right off the bulkhead.

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Then spent a good portion of a couple hours prepping the bulkhead for primer.

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Up next will be to coat the frame that is accessible and spray color on the bulkhead.
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  #162  
Old April 19th, 2019, 11:10 PM
SplurGn
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Serge B
1985 D90
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Nice job Miles! Since you have it easily accessible - Upgrading the shock towers to the Terrafirma ones makes life really easy when cleaning after getting it dirty.... https://www.roversnorth.com/ProductD...e=0&eq=&key=it




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  #163  
Old April 21st, 2019, 10:13 PM
Mr.BlueSky
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Miles W
1987 Land Rover 110 Tithonus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SplurGn View Post
Nice job Miles! Since you have it easily accessible - Upgrading the shock towers to the Terrafirma ones makes life really easy when cleaning after getting it dirty.... https://www.roversnorth.com/ProductD...e=0&eq=&key=it
Thanks Serge. Not sure I am looking to swap these out at the moment. (actually hadn't considered swapping them out until now).

They would be easier to clean that is true...
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  #164  
Old April 22nd, 2019, 04:51 PM
SplurGn
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Think about it - plus it would add a really cool Mr. T / A-Team vibe with the camp green and gold.


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  #165  
Old April 27th, 2019, 12:45 AM
Mr.BlueSky
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Miles W
1987 Land Rover 110 Tithonus
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Last Saturday and Sunday was spent further cleaning the body panels and preparing for spraying.

First I coated the frame on Saturday.

Then Sunday worked on masking off the truck and pulling the "paintbooth" off the shelf and out of the totes and set it up around the 110.

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After two uses the painting plastic was pretty torn and butchered. This will be the last time I re-use the sheeting.

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Two coats of NATO green later and I have a fresh looking bulkhead! The only downside was that I forgot to add a matting agent so it came out a bit glossier than I would have liked.

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I aim to get the engine and transmission mated together this weekend.
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  #166  
Old May 1st, 2019, 01:51 AM
Mr.BlueSky
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Miles W
1987 Land Rover 110 Tithonus
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Friday

Friday evening last week was spent measuring bulkhead panels, seat box panels, and transmission tunnel. I then put in an order for OEM type aluminum heat shielding.

I found that I really did not like the idea of all these stick on heat shields... if for whatever reason I would need to remove it, well it would be a real PITA...

So aluminum shielding with standoffs is my plan.

Saturday was the fun day.

Clutch Replacement and install

Here is the old 2.5na assembly. A couple quick zips and the clutch was off to compare to the new one.

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The pressure plate had a bit of wear from the release bearing.

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Hard to tell in this photo, the new friction plate (bottom) is about a 1/4" larger in diameter.

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The new pressure plate has a second layer of fingers... that booster will be needed!

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Tools Needed - Pressure and Friction Plate installation
  • 3/8 rachet
  • 13mm socket - to remove assembly from 2.5na
  • 27mm socket
  • 6mm allen socket
  • torque wrench
  • breaker bar
  • center tool (or socket with tape)

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1. Spray off the driven plate and flywheel surfaces to get an wax coating that may be on there to protect the parts prior to install.

2. Set the friction plate and centering tool into the pilot bushing. The friction plate should touch up against the flywheel flush.

3. Slide the driven plate over the alignment tool and friction plate and start hand threading in the new bolts. If you are using old bolts I recommend at least using new spring washers.

4. Using the 6mm allen key and ratchet gradually and evenly draw the pressure plate down to meet the flywheel. I use a star pattern (like when torquing a tire) to help draw it down evenly going a little bit at a time.

5. Torque down the pressure plate to the torque specs in the manual. I needed the breaker bar braced on a conveniently placed frame cross-member to resist the torquing process.

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6. Pull the centering tool out and push it back in. Everything should still be in alignment. If it isn't you will likely need to loosen and try again.

7. Ta-done

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Pivot and Release bearing install

Here is a side by side of the old LT77 and the new R380.

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And a side by side of the old melty release bearing and the new billet bearing.

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Parts Needed:
  • Plastic Staple
  • Release Bearing (UTJ100210 for a stumpy)
  • Copper Grease/Clutch grease
  • Plastic Push-rod Clip
  • Slipper Pads
  • Pivot Arm

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1. Clean out the bell housing if there is anything in there

2. Add some grease to the slipper pads and slide them onto the pivot.

3. Lubricate the push-rod end with the grease and insert the plastic clip and rod into the pivot

4. Snap the pivot arm assembly into place.

5. Slide on the release bearing. I put just the slightest amount of grease on the shaft. Make sure the slipper pads are flat faced to the profiles in the release bearing.

6. Insert the plastic staple. Make sure it is fully seated.

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7.Test the motion by cycling the push-rod a few times. The staple should not come out and everything should slide together.

Done!
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  #167  
Old May 1st, 2019, 02:02 AM
Mr.BlueSky
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Miles W
1987 Land Rover 110 Tithonus
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Mating engine and trans

Put a dab of grease on the pilot and shaft

1. If you can use the hoist and leveler to lift and maneuver the transmission. Makes it sooo much easier. I threw a chain around the under side of the front near the bell housing. The second chain I bolted to one side on the rear and slipped it over the stud on the other.

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2. If you use some longer bolts you can draw in the transmission in.

3. Once sufficiently close you can install the proper bolts and lock washers and pull them together.

4. Torque everything down.

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  #168  
Old May 1st, 2019, 08:06 AM
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Daddymow
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Raub A.
1987 D110 Tithonus
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Love your build, itís going to be a great truck! They make a reinforced pivot arm that I would suggest as the stamped steel ones tend to wear out and the push rod will just push through. Happened to me one night without warning while approaching an intersection, pushed in the clutch and nothing. Had to turn the motor off before I plowed through. Had to drive home with no clutch. Pain in the ass.
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  #169  
Old May 2nd, 2019, 12:52 AM
Mr.BlueSky
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Miles W
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddymow View Post
Love your build, itís going to be a great truck! They make a reinforced pivot arm that I would suggest as the stamped steel ones tend to wear out and the push rod will just push through. Happened to me one night without warning while approaching an intersection, pushed in the clutch and nothing. Had to turn the motor off before I plowed through. Had to drive home with no clutch. Pain in the ass.
Thanks Raub! I did end up adding a reinforced pivot arm. It's got a huge chunk of steel welded on the back of it. They even painted in it in pretty colors.

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I decided to get one for the exact reason above. I typically don't like surprises... especially those of the motoring nature...
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  #170  
Old May 22nd, 2019, 11:52 PM
Mr.BlueSky
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Miles W
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It has been a busy last couple of weeks, though not too much progress on Roxy.

The stock pile of parts is growing and by the week's end I expect t have everything I need to plumb the new fuel system.

Ideally, I aim to get the heat shielding installed and the motor and transmission swung in over the long weekend.

Here are some highlights from the last couple weeks:

Fuel Tank
Straight forward, no issues, one of the front bolts started to spin but once I got a wrench on it everything came down.

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I will be redoing some of the tank mounts anyway to fit a new tank guard. The existing bolts are just a bit too short for comfort.

Front Mount:
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Rear Mount:
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Cleaned and Painted:
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Sedimenter
Unfortunately removing the sedimenter was a bit more of a struggle. The hoses ends were seized so I ended up cutting the fuel line to get it out. No worry as I'll replacing all of the lines and relocating them to the passenger side of the vehicle.

Of course the stupid little plastic drain plug snapped when I looked at it sideways...

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Drilled and tapped to M8 x 1.25:

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Cleaned up and blingy (all the better for it to get dirty):

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  #171  
Old May 31st, 2019, 12:53 AM
Mr.BlueSky
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Miles W
1987 Land Rover 110 Tithonus
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This weekend was actually quite productive considering I wasted half of it wrestling with the classic's exhaust system...

Heat Shield's

I decided to go with regular aluminum heat shielding material. I wasn't too keen on the adhesive backed stuff due to the permanence and whatnot.

A couple weeks earlier I had spent time sketching up rough dimensions for heat shield patterns (should I decide to cover it all). Additionally I sketched up some standoffs to hold the heat shield roughly 1 inch off the firewall.

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The standoffs are threaded to accept a M5 screw to hold the heat shield in place and it can be easily removed if it turns into a crap collector.

1. Sent the sketch of the standoffs and a 3 ft section of 1" diameter aluminum bar stock off with a buddy to turn down on the lathe.

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2. As I started getting standoffs, I sanded the mating surface with 80 grit sand paper to get more adhesion area.

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3. After marking the locations of the standoff's I scuffed up the paint/exposed aluminum.

4. Then applied a small dab of 3M 08693 Urethane and stuck the standoffs in place.

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5. After waiting 24 out of the 78 hour curing period the standoffs were firmly stuck in place, so I installed the front tunnel heat-shield. This was the only shield I needed to get into place before sliding the engine and transmission in.

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  #172  
Old May 31st, 2019, 01:27 AM
Mr.BlueSky
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Miles W
1987 Land Rover 110 Tithonus
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Next up was to install the motor mount brackets.

Tools Needed:
  • Torque Wrench
  • 17mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 17mm wrench
  • Screwdriver/Chisel

Parts Needed
  • New rubber mount - NTC 5890
  • New Merc mounts (2) - 1242401917 (Two come with the kit)


These bolt on directly to the frame into the existing 2.5na mounts. Shown is the right mount and hardware:

I only bolted them down part way, leaving them loose so that I could adjust everything later.

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Up next was to bolt the mounts to the engine and swing it all in.

The rubber goes towards the engine (up) and based on what I could find the rubber side is to be torqued to 35Nm and the metal side 55Nm.

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Don't be like me... take the bumper off before you find out you *have* to.

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After much finagling the motor was in place and resting on the perches. I then remembered I had not yet removed the transmission mount off the old transmission.

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According to the rover manual, 21Nm is the torque for the mount to the plate and 55Nm is used for the plate to the transmission.

Resting on the perches at last!

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  #173  
Old May 31st, 2019, 01:45 AM
Mr.BlueSky
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Miles W
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Here a few more photos showing the mounts and the clearances around the motor:

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Left Mount:

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Right Mount:

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Sadly it seems the hydraulic fluid has leaked out... So I have a new one on order.
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  #174  
Old May 31st, 2019, 08:22 AM
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Are you sure the rubber side goes up? Also it looks like once installed there is a bend in the mount of a couple of degrees (some versions of this mount have an angle like that, not sure what the application is). The top plane and bottom plane are no longer parallel. I also thought these were to be installed upright, perpendicular to the road surface.

I think this is the mount on a Mercedes W124 but could be wrong. All the other photos Iíve seen in a W124 installation the mount was pretty well hidden.but reference to the nipple on the metal side was referenced against the upper engine mount.

I'm using this mount on an HS28 project and I didn't find all the info I was looking for but the W124 install pics helped. A guy is using these mounts on a 1jZ swap into a 190E, I added that pic as well.
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  #175  
Old May 31st, 2019, 10:04 PM
Mr.BlueSky
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Miles W
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Oscar,

Yes they are one the W124 E-class and a few others.

I gave Robert a call today and confirmed that the mounts are supposed to be installed as in the W124. So I indeed do have them upside down. I'll need to flip them when I get the new ones in.

Robert also mentioned that he thought if one mounted them upside down they might rupture / leak.

I was going off another forum post here where they were installed upside down for reference... oh well.

As far as the angles, I will have to check but I expect they are not the far off. The one that looks off kilter is mainly deflated due to the lost fluid.

Also after looking through some more photos I think I want to add a heat shield above the mount below the turbo.
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  #176  
Old June 1st, 2019, 09:39 AM
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Daddymow
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Raub A.
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Looking great Miles! Can’t wait for you to get it o the road!
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  #177  
Old June 2nd, 2019, 12:24 AM
Mr.BlueSky
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Miles W
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Thanks Raub! It's getting closer but all these little fiddly things are making progress feel slow.

Just gotta stay focused and get through one system at a time....
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  #178  
Old June 2nd, 2019, 01:03 AM
Mr.BlueSky
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Miles W
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Today got some decent progress in various places.

First, I finished up two more heat shields. With these completed and tucked up I can work to get the original 1.6 transfer case bolted back up.

I plan on needing to pull the heat shields once more to make cuts for harness routing.

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The starter and right hand motor mount will get shields as well.

Heater Prep

While a buddy was working on cleaning up the harnesses in the engine bay I started tearing into the heater.

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It seems that based on the forum posts here, that the fan is decently spec'd and the bulkhead cannot be enlarged on a RHD (verified that there is a bit more structure on that side on my truck). So the plan for now will simply be to lubricate the bearing, clean it up and seal it.

There is the D2 heater core option, but we plan on installing a auxiliary diesel heater for stationary camping situations, so time spent modifying the stock heater might be moot.


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Seals and flap seal material are on order.

Oil and Fuel Filters

I decided to go with the Stanadyne FM100 system for the fuel filtration and fuel heating. The whole thing is modular and pretty easy to work with.

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I did have to bolt the filter housing to the bench to get enough leverage to swap to a 5 micron filter.

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Parts:
  • FM100 system w/ stock 30 micron filter - 33641
  • Heater Assembly 100 Watt - 31341
  • 30 micron filter - 31873

For the oil filter, I will use a 3/4-16 thread spin on filter mount from Summit/Jegs I can't remember now.

I went in to the parts store and checked out a few filters and ended up going with the Champion COS8A. It was readily available everywhere and is used in both diesels and petrol engines.

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I got home and couldn't figure out why that number was so familiar... crawled under the '02 Sport Trac and a COS8A was looking me in the face
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  #179  
Old June 2nd, 2019, 09:02 AM
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Uncle Douglas
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Doug Crowther
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You are planning on re-using the 1.6 transfercase ?
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  #180  
Old June 2nd, 2019, 12:25 PM
Mr.BlueSky
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Miles W
1987 Land Rover 110 Tithonus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
You are planning on re-using the 1.6 transfercase ?
Only in the short term. The 1.4 t-case I have needs rebuilt. I have not yet started on that, but should have everything I need for the rebuild.

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