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Old April 23rd, 2012, 02:59 PM
sonoronos
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U-joints for early defender (1984)?

Hey folks. I think it's time for me to do my U joints (front and rear) since they have a lot of play. I want to get this done before the next wheeling trip up to Rausch.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ghlight=joints

Tom's informative post says that early Defenders use the Advance auto 1-0153 U-J

then:

"I picked up a PDQ 1-0154 u-joint from Advance Auto today just to check them out. They can be used in lieu of 1-0153 (Spicer 5-153x). The difference is the zerk is in the end cap on the 1-0154."

Would the 1-0154's work for both the front and rear driveshafts on an early D90 (1984)?
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 07:21 PM
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The surest way to know is to remove the old ones and measure. The factory parts manual for mine isn't even correct.

Outside Cup Diameter and the over all length (with cups on) of 2 apposing cups, are the measurements you need.
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 08:38 PM
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Yeah there seem to be various sizes. But do yourself a favor and find ones without a zerk in the end cap. They WILL get broken off when you wheel.
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 08:41 PM
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ooh, thanks for the suggestion guys.
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 08:55 PM
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I went the NAPA route last time. They have two grades of the same part for the application. The made in the USA part was a pita to press in compared to the cheaper made in Japan version. For me the Japanese version pressed in much easier and the seals appeared to be of higher quality. I have the auto zone ones in my 130 front shaft- 40k and counting.
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  #6  
Old April 23rd, 2012, 09:07 PM
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I used the 1-0153 in my front driveshaft on an 83. It has the zerk recessed in the middle of the joint. Not sure what to use in the rear since I replaced my rear driveshaft.
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Old April 24th, 2012, 03:39 AM
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Cap diameter is the same between the 1310 and the 1300 series, just the length is different, but yeah, the best way would be to measure the length. They are different enough you should be able to do it with a ruler, if you can't afford the down time.
I've never broken a zerk on the end cap, but then I always replace them with flush fittings.
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Old May 9th, 2012, 03:50 PM
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To close the loop on this thread:

I screwed up and bought both the wrong kind of Universal Joint and too few of them.

I bought two 1310 series u-joints at Advance, and I found out that I needed four 1300 series.

Charles saved the day by having two 1300 series u-joints on hand. Thanks again Charles

So I (well, more like Charles) replaced the u-joints in the rear. His vise was also destroyed in the process of trying to press out the caps. What worked out best in the end was the "pound out the caps with a hammer and a socket" method.

It also turned out that most of the play I was experiencing wasn't actually in the driveshaft but is somewhere in the axle. Oh well...in for a dime, in for a dollar-ish.

Thanks again to all for the advice.
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