Recently truck (95 D90 NAS stock) has had an intermittent idle issue whereby it starts normally then idle drops, never dies, and then back to normal. Truck runs perfectly after that.
Yesterday I replaced the three hoses and restrictor T section. Now it idles high. No vacuum leaks that I can discern. Could this have caused any issues?
I'm going to clean air idle control valve but wouldn't mind a few step by step instructions. I've searched but all solutions simply state; "Clean air idle control valve with carb cleaner and toothbrush".
I'm going to need something a bit more specific starting with its location:grin
IMO, best to go through the troubleshooting guide than to just attack random bits. Maybe the valve sticking is the problem. Maybe the base idle is set to high. Maybe one of a few sensors is not working problem.
RRC workshop manual has a great step by step guide to check each item.
...and if I recall correctly, UD pointed out something in recent months about the possibility that "running rich" is or can be a symptom of an exhaust leak. Not that I'm really qualified to equate "running rich" & "idles high".
So, just to really hang myself out there, maybe the leaky hoses that you replaced were compensating for some other problem such as an exhaust leak? Anyone?
Mine idled high because the timing was set incorrectly. There are a number of causes and so a methodical approach is best to ensure you don't miss anything.
It won't go manually without a lot of force and I don't like to force mine. Just plug it into the harness and have some one turn the ignition on and off and you should see it extend and retract.
Turned out super easy to do with a bit of guidance.
Pulled the idle air control valve, cleaned it with carb cleaner and wife's toothbrush and after a restart,truck is back to running perfectly.
If anyone is having trouble with idle, I highly recommend this 5 minute effort. My only issue was it was on there REALLY tight so it took some oomph to remove it.
Turned out super easy to do with a bit of guidance.
Pulled the idle air control valve, cleaned it with carb cleaner and wife's toothbrush and after a restart,truck is back to running perfectly.
If anyone is having trouble with idle, I highly recommend this 5 minute effort. My only issue was it was on there REALLY tight so it took some oomph to remove it.
Kevin mine sticks just as high on idle more often than not so thanks for posting this issue. Question I haven't looked at mine yet but how does it come off? Is it threaded on or just pull off/outward?
Will- It just unscrews. Not sure of the size. Lefty loosey, righty tighty... I had to PM Jason because I was putting a LOT into trying to loosen it with no luck. He assured me probably it was just a bit of corrosion and to keep at it. Which I did and it finally broke loose. Might try a little PB or something first. Anyway like I said, kitchen table, carb cleaner, toothbrush and all better.
KCD
Also, to pull off the electrical connection which is in there pretty tightly and which you do first, make sure you release the underside of the clip first. It then just wiggles out. (that's what she said)
This is a stepper motor. Never force it to move or it will break. I've also seen these fail when overzealous use of cleaner is applied causing the spindle to seize. I use an IAC found on any mid 90's Chevy Vortec V6 for replacement. Cheap, plentiful and it works fine. Grab a couple of clean ones at the junkyard for quick spares.
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