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-   -   Need Help Evaluating a 1964 Series IIA 88" (http://www.defendersource.com/forum/f50/need-help-evaluating-a-1964-series-iia-88-a-53134.html)

hunterjah April 19th, 2014 12:21 AM

Need Help Evaluating a 1964 Series IIA 88"
 
All,

I am looking at purchasing a 1964 Series IIA that is local. The truck is owned by an individual and is currently not running. According to the owner, this truck has not run since in his possession. The IIA has 37,XXX showing on the clock, but I assume that is either wrong, or 137K. Owner states the engine turns over (so it isn't seized). Owner also states the carb is shot. Needs a new carb. I believe this to be a 2.25 L 4 Petrol engine. I've attached a bunch of photos. I don't see much rust on the drivetrain. Door sills show some rust. Bulkhead also shows a bit of rust. The doors don't shut great and the door glass is broken on the sliding portion. I think the interior looks marginal, but I can live with that. So, my question is this: owner is asking $3,800 firm. Is this a good price for a non-running '64 IIA? I have no experience with Series trucks, but I want one and will be doing most of the work myself. Is this where I should start?

[IMG]http://i1148.photobucket.com/albums/...psec2c7561.jpg[/IMG]

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Thanks again for any and all feedback!!!

javelinadave April 19th, 2014 12:33 AM

Not to muddy the water but here is a running (according to this seller) comparison.
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/4419633221.html

Classic Short Wheel base 2a 88. 2.25L petrol motor. Runs and drives. Very rare Safari top and rear seats. Good tires and spare. Original survivor. Serious Rover lovers apply. Clear AZ title. $5900. Scottsdale

http://images.craigslist.org/00K0K_4...bN_600x450.jpg

http://images.craigslist.org/01212_k...IM_600x450.jpg

http://images.craigslist.org/00505_k...AT_600x450.jpg

chuckc4 April 19th, 2014 09:33 AM

Without a good look at the bulkhead, but from the rust shown on the pic of the pedals, I would say no way to the asking price. Without the motor running --way too many variables that could put you in over 15k in a heartbeat.

There are a lot of runners out there for a few thousand more.

This is a parts truck right now, I think $1,500 would be generous.

Chuck

LR Max April 19th, 2014 09:41 AM

HAHAHAHHAHAHA.

That thing is a basket case. Bare minimum needs a lot of bulkhead work. Doors are rusted. I mean, they'll work but it'll never be a show piece.

Where is the parking brake!!?? Literally, the parking brake has been unbolted and discarded.

Tires are shot and something is weird with the front axle. That tire looks like its leaning in.

Overall, price is too high for a non-runner that needs a crap ton of work. I say spend a few extra and get something that you can take for a test drive.

Looks like its leaking from every seal. Series seals don't "swell back up". They just leak more. So be prepared to pretty much reseal the entire truck. Bare minimum the output, pinion seals, looks like the swivel balls also need seals, front main seal, oil pan gasket.

WTF those shocks. Definitely getting a new pair of shocks. Also a new set of springs as well.

Assuming the clutch and brakes work, they are all probably rusted to crap and all crapped up as well. I wouldn't rely on a truck like that without doing brake work.

I'd pay ~$2k for that. If the parking brake isn't working, lord knows what other BS is wrong with that drivetrain. I'd probably blow at least $3k on getting it back into running shape ASSuming the chassis isn't shot. It looks good but considering how crappy the bulkhead is, I suspect the chassis isn't much better. If memory serves, typically the chassis goes before the bulkhead.

Back in the day we always said $500 for a non-runner with a crap chassis. $1,000 for a runner with a crap chassis.

Overall for the better part of $4k, I'd pass. While it is complete, it needs a bunch of work just to make it usable to drive to the burger joint.

Spend $2k more and get a truck you can start driving immediately. Yes, it'll have little BS problems and need attention, etc. But you'll have that + a crap ton more...AND all the crap I just pointed out above with this truck.

Oh and if you get a series, make sure to take the top off, get a leather brim hat, a pair of aviators, and a pipe. This is the only way to drive a series.

rdavisinva April 19th, 2014 09:50 AM

From what you can tell from the pictures, the frame is good.
The doors and bulkhead need work.
How far you want to go into it is up to you, but I don't see it as a get it running and jump in and drive before undergoing some major work.

If it were my only major project, assuming you have a garage bay, would pull the bulkhead and send it off to John Door to be repaired professionally. John is up in NY.

While John has the bulkhead you could sort out the engine, gearboxes, and suspension.
Looks like new seals are in order and count on replacing all the hydraulics.
The missing hand brake will be easy enough to locate.
The dash has been monkeyed with and the original center gauge panel and gauge cluster is gone.
What this really means is the harness may be all spliced together and may need a a complete new harness and rewire.
Tires will need to be replaced and possibly the wheels.

If it were here and the rest of the frame is as good as what you can see in the pictures, it would go for about $4,000 to $4,500 as a comparison, but it is actually worth only what someone is willing to pay for it.
It is a good restoration candidate.

It's an early 88 which is starting to get somewhat rare, but is nothing special.
The LHD makes it worth more.

Hope these comments are of some value to you... others may not agree... opinions are like ahhh, well everyone has one, but you did ask!

The Dro April 19th, 2014 10:04 AM

I say keep looking.

The frame looks good. The rest... meeh!!!

He's asking too much. You are going to double that amount fixing it. (ask me how I know) :)

Jonesy April 19th, 2014 10:44 AM

Run away if you can't get that for $1,000. I wouldn't touch it personally, and I have bought a few lately for a lot less money that $3800. That is a parts truck at best.

o2batsea April 19th, 2014 11:37 AM

It's like this: Any 2A that has not been restored will need some amount of rehabilitation. The purchase price should be considered your buy in. That's going to depend on your own comfort level. If you're confident that you can repair the rust and do the mechanicals and cosmetics, then go forward.
I wouldn't run away from that one, but it will be sucking a good solid 15 grand from you to get it right.

hunterjah April 19th, 2014 11:37 AM

All, thanks for the candid feedback. Would love to keep hearing opinions. I think the consensus so far is run. Quick question, if I was going to have one shipped, would I be looking at ~$1k from farthest part of US to Texas? Reason I ask is I'd add that to a runner (lets say $6k) and that's the nut I need to clear. I'm definitely looking for a project truck, but I'm just getting my feet wet on mechanicals. It may be better to buy a runner and start learning on something i know works.

Contractor April 19th, 2014 10:49 PM

It's hard to say from the pictures.

The chassis looks pretty solid, but the bulkhead will need some work. It's not bad for a project, but I would think all in you will be over $8,000 just to get it running. For $8K you should be able to get a running driving truck. Get him to $3K and I'd probably buy it.

Making assumptions, but I would suspect it needs the following:

- Brakes - it likely has a bad MC, some wheel cylinders are crap, worn out shoes, old brake lines,etc. If you are capable of fixing this yourself you are going to drop close to $1K

- Clutch Master, I have found rubber parts all seem to fail at the same time, not expensive but a pain in the ass on a LHD truck.

- Tune up - Carb rebuild, plugs and wires, battery, fluids, etc......

- Suspension - Likely needs shocks

- Tires

- Interior - Seats, clean up the trim, etc.

- Body - Needs new footwells, door bottoms/frame, etc. re-claim what should be galvanized.

Anyway, it does not look that bad and I would not be scared to buy that truck. But know what you are getting into. As far as shipping goes........I can ship from Oregon to SC for $1500, Michigan to SC for $700.

Good Luck

revtor April 20th, 2014 03:13 PM

Needs work for sure, coantractors list looks about right. . .

But remember! - You don't need to repair every spot of rust and replace every non-original piece to enjoy it! Rusty doors and footwells will not stop you from enjoying it. All rovers leak and painted galv and non original gauges will not make it undriveable.


You NEED : Parking brake, and realistically all new brake and clutch hydraulics. NEED to sort out the rats nest wiring in the passengers side bulkhead. NEED new tires.

Probably need a new carb, fuel pump and gas tank.

Might need a radiator. water pump, etc -who knows... once you get the engine to run you'll know.



I think though, if you just want something to enjoy and not a total basket case restoration you can find something driveable for a few grand more. If moneys tight and you like wrenching then this might be just right.

~Steve

LR Max April 21st, 2014 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hunterjah (Post 524487)
All, thanks for the candid feedback. Would love to keep hearing opinions. I think the consensus so far is run. Quick question, if I was going to have one shipped, would I be looking at ~$1k from farthest part of US to Texas? Reason I ask is I'd add that to a runner (lets say $6k) and that's the nut I need to clear. I'm definitely looking for a project truck, but I'm just getting my feet wet on mechanicals. It may be better to buy a runner and start learning on something i know works.

A $1k budget for shipping is about right. You can probably do it cheaper (depending on distance, etc) but $1k budgeted leaves a lot of leeway.

If you REALLY want a series, Get ahold of Ike Goss and buy one of his. He usually has a stack of em and knows the trucks. He also has a lot of spares available and upgrades. If I was buying a series truck from him, I'd get the truck, ask him what it needs (I mean, he will tell ya), buy those parts, have him put it in the back of the truck, and ship it down.

Or have him do some refurb/upgrades before getting the truck to you. Depends on how much of a project you want.

The key with buying from Ike is he isn't a good ole boy who thinks he has a rare treasure in his driveway and is worth a bunch of money...despite the fact it hasn't run in 15 years.

Jonesy April 21st, 2014 09:29 AM

Ditto on Ike - as a matter of fact I think he has one. Also I know of another one for sale, in better condition. Send a PM to Jason Arrington on here. - handle is Arrington

hunterjah April 21st, 2014 05:57 PM

Thanks gents, appreciate all the great feedback. I'm passing on this one. Will spend the extra money and get one that is in better condition. What's the best way to get in touch with Ike? I'll also send a note to Jason.

chuckc4 April 21st, 2014 07:52 PM

BRIKO Sticker, that tells me the current owner has STYLE!

Lots of really good advice from board members here....you are in good hands!

Chuck

Quote:

Originally Posted by javelinadave (Post 524430)
Not to muddy the water but here is a running (according to this seller) comparison.
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/4419633221.html

Classic Short Wheel base 2a 88. 2.25L petrol motor. Runs and drives. Very rare Safari top and rear seats. Good tires and spare. Original survivor. Serious Rover lovers apply. Clear AZ title. $5900. Scottsdale

http://images.craigslist.org/00K0K_4...bN_600x450.jpg

http://images.craigslist.org/01212_k...IM_600x450.jpg

http://images.craigslist.org/00505_k...AT_600x450.jpg


Contractor April 21st, 2014 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hunterjah (Post 524989)
What's the best way to get in touch with Ike?

http://pangolin4x4.com/


Click the contact link and call the number.

I have bought two trucks from Ike and various parts, he is good people and about as straight up as you get. I have many trucks and parts from him in my future.

xplorUtah April 21st, 2014 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Contractor (Post 525034)
http://pangolin4x4.com/


Click the contact link and call the number.

I have bought two trucks from Ike and various parts, he is good people and about as straight up as you get. I have many trucks and parts from him in my future.

X2...I bought my Series from Ike several years ago. Strongly recommend.

LR Max April 22nd, 2014 09:32 AM

Occasionally he has a good Series 1 for sale.

Too much want...

REDrum April 26th, 2014 09:56 PM

I second what Bill posted.

I look at about ten series trucks a year, but usually only buy one or two, and based on my data set that one aint too bad for a US truck. That said, based on the Bosch heater I see bolted to the bulk head I don't think it started in US, probably GT or CR and driven north to Tejas. There are no great deals with series trucks. My feeling is that a well sorted and serviced series trucks cost $15K. Either you buy for $15K sorted or you buy for $5K and spend $10K sorting. You can save some if you do all your own wrenching.

3,800 for non running truck, no so much. Have him getting running for $4K or offer $2.5K. Lots of running project trucks out there fror <$5K


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