Stainless Bolt Kits for 90s and 110s - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 23rd, 2008, 03:24 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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Stainless Bolt Kits for 90s and 110s

So, I have a few sets of stainless hardware that I put together. I am posting pics of them all layed out and labeled. If you guys have any questions about them let me know. I have two of the D90 sets and 1 110 set right now and would like to get $150 for the D90 sets and $200 for the 110 set.
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  #2  
Old February 23rd, 2008, 04:08 PM
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Oh, you're the guy selling them on ebay!

Isn't sorting stainless washers fun...
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  #3  
Old February 23rd, 2008, 04:51 PM
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What about the nylon washers?......and yes, you DO need those.
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Old February 23rd, 2008, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EWR
What about the nylon washers?......and yes, you DO need those.
Not really.
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  #5  
Old February 23rd, 2008, 05:46 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Oh, you're the guy selling them on ebay!

Isn't sorting stainless washers fun...
Haha, yeah, I knew you guys would pick up on that pretty quickly.
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  #6  
Old February 24th, 2008, 03:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stmpede
Haha, yeah, I knew you guys would pick up on that pretty quickly.
With the EE truck on the ad?
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  #7  
Old February 24th, 2008, 06:13 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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Probably, I didn't really pay attention to what the stickers were, just wanted to show a 90 since a picture of a bunch of bolts isn't to exciting on the search page.

My apologies to EE, there was no intent to connect myself with them. I hope there are no hard feelings and when/if I relist them I'll change the photo.
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Old February 24th, 2008, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Not really.
Elaborate please,...we install MANY kits ...ALWAYS using nylon between the stainless and Al.
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  #9  
Old February 24th, 2008, 07:42 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I really don't need the kit, but would you share where you got the long bolts for the middle doors (and maybe what size they are)?

thanks
charles
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  #10  
Old February 24th, 2008, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Not really.

Dead wrong Jim (sorry).
Unless you live in So Call or some place dry place putting stainless up against the alloy body of a Defender is begging for a corrosion hole in the future. If you have ever seen the tub side of a NAS Series III you will have seen this first hand (the steel seat belt bracket eats through the aloy tub side).

Perfect explation of the issue is here:
http://www.foroverforever.net/corrosion.html

Steel, and especially stainless steel should always be isolated from the alloy, unless you don't care about the longevity of your trucks alloy panels.
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  #11  
Old February 24th, 2008, 09:44 PM
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Well, since the BC pillars, bulkhead and door frames are all steel you really only need them for the back door where it attaches to the rear tub. You can get neoprene washers from your local hardware store for a few dollars.
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  #12  
Old February 25th, 2008, 12:52 AM
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Fine, fine, I'll have myself a helping of crow and defer to the experts! I totally understand how the corrosion issue works - its just I've never seen it occur, probably because my truck isnt a boat or doesnt live on Martha's Vinyard.

And now that I think about it, there aren't that many locations where I have a piece of stainless directly on a piece of aluminum. The door hinges are steel, and so is the bulkhead, the rear door hinges are steel as well, and so are the stiffners on the inside of the tub. The rear tub tabs are also going straight through from the steel tabs to the steel captive washers.

That being said, I always use anti-sieze to avoid thread galling or corrosion with the stainless (especially when threading into steel captive nuts).
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  #13  
Old February 25th, 2008, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
I totally understand how the corrosion issue works - its just I've never seen it occur, probably because my truck isnt a boat or doesnt live on Martha's Vinyard.

You don't need to be on an island, just move to New England or the upper mid-west... you can almost watch it happen.
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  #14  
Old February 25th, 2008, 10:31 AM
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Agreed with Mike. That is why I used galvanized bolts (and some cad plated), not stainless, on my series truck. The differential between alum and SS is quite high, whereas zinc (anything galvanized) and alum have functionally no reaction. I can show you a door off a 1951 series one (alum skin, galvanized frame) that has zero corrosion.
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  #15  
Old February 25th, 2008, 01:40 PM
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Anybody else want to take a shot before I put my nuts away?
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  #16  
Old February 25th, 2008, 03:48 PM
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Sorry, I was just adding the bit about galvanized bolts to help out. Not meant as a shot at JimC.
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  #17  
Old February 25th, 2008, 04:16 PM
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Same here.
Put your nuts away JimC...
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  #18  
Old February 25th, 2008, 04:27 PM
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can I kick before they get put away??

not because I actually have anything to add... but just because really
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  #19  
Old February 25th, 2008, 04:30 PM
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Are we saying that ss fasteners on LR's is basically a bad idea? You can separate the bolt head/washer and nut/washer from the al/al skin but the shank of the bolt will still be in contact with the hole in the al/al skin, so will this still be an issue? Is there still a problem if the hole through the al/al skin is first coated with a zinc chromate primer or a zinc rich jointing compound and the ss fastener is also coated with a jointing compound? Or is galvanic corrosion a foregone conclusion if you use ss on al/al? I'm building a D90 from scratch and intended to use ss fasteners in all non-structural areas - am I looking for trouble?

Mark

Clarification: You can separate the bolt head/washer and nut/washer from the al/al skin (with nylon washers or similar)
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  #20  
Old February 25th, 2008, 06:23 PM
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Use SS where it meets regular steel. For body bolts I use galvanized or plated and slather on a bunch of wurth copper antisieze. Some people use nylon washers to isolate and still use stainless next to aluminium.

In oman, I doubt you get enough moisture to make stainless react with alum.
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