4.75 thirds and a Trutrac - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old July 23rd, 2015, 12:13 PM
LR Max
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1973 Series 3 109
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I'd be interested in the front one. Would pair well in my 109 with the 4.7 sals + detroit in the rear.
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  #22  
Old July 23rd, 2015, 12:20 PM
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Max you'll need to upgrade to 24 spline front halfshafts which are hard to come by for the series right now.

With regards to RV8 power band, its a small displacement lightweight V8... not a big block piece of american iron.

Here's a dyno chart for a 4.6 - the numbers are different but the curves will be similar.

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  #23  
Old July 23rd, 2015, 01:00 PM
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Brett Fritzler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
So when you reassembled the diff with the open carrier did you use the old bearings or new? Did you set the contact pattern and backlash, or just bolt it in without setting it up? And finally, who did the work?

-Jeff
I don't see how it matters. Like Dale said its a ticking time bomb. He'd be better off splitting the R&P from the rear diff and dropping them in the bucket with the front third to whoever buys it.
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  #24  
Old July 23rd, 2015, 01:26 PM
Departing90
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This.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
$150 for the rear is a bargain considering that the 4.75 R&P alone costs $300.

to the OP - don't get bullied on the sale and be patient. Expecting this stuff to sell in a few days is the fastest way to lose money, unless you don't care.

In some cases, the parts you have might be easier to sell split up. For example, sell the 4.75 R&P's in matched sets by removing them from the thirds. Don't pull the pinion bearing because that's expensive. Also include the other pinion bearing in the sale to sweeten the deal for the new buyer. The pinion bearings are easily $60-70 dollars. Also include the shims and drive flange if they're in good shape.

The 24 spline truetrac is probably an easy sell here.

cgalpin might want the stock 24 spline open differential.

The advantage of splitting it up is that the parts become exponentially cheaper to ship. You can also ebay the parts individually, which is significantly easier because of the cataloging system.
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  #25  
Old July 23rd, 2015, 01:41 PM
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Why would you want to deal with setting up pinion depth all over again assuming its correct now? Changing out the carrier/bearings and setting backlash is childs play compared to dealing with pinion depth and contact pattern......
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  #26  
Old July 23rd, 2015, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
$150 for the rear is a bargain considering that the 4.75 R&P alone costs $300.

to the OP - don't get bullied on the sale and be patient. Expecting this stuff to sell in a few days is the fastest way to lose money, unless you don't care.

In some cases, the parts you have might be easier to sell split up. For example, sell the 4.75 R&P's in matched sets by removing them from the thirds. Don't pull the pinion bearing because that's expensive. Also include the other pinion bearing in the sale to sweeten the deal for the new buyer. The pinion bearings are easily $60-70 dollars. Also include the shims and drive flange if they're in good shape.

The 24 spline truetrac is probably an easy sell here.

cgalpin might want the stock 24 spline open differential.

The advantage of splitting it up is that the parts become exponentially cheaper to ship. You can also ebay the parts individually, which is significantly easier because of the cataloging system.
$300 for NEW R&P. I think $150 for used R&P is about right. I got my used front and rear Ashcroft R&P's for $225 shipped. THAT was a bargain.
OP already said he had a buyer lined up, I don't think anybody is bullying.
$60-70 for a pinion bearing????? You can buy the whole kit, including both carrier bearings, seals, and pinion bearing, straight from Ashcroft for $74.
Ashcroft Transmissions
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  #27  
Old July 23rd, 2015, 03:48 PM
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Jeff - a guy that's local to me with a driveline shop did the work. old school guy, has had his small shop in the area for 20+ years. he indicated the bearings were fine so didn't change them. however, he did reset the contact pattern and backlash.

------ Follow up post added July 23rd, 2015 02:52 PM ------

Fill me in on why you refer to the open 4.75 diff. as a "ticking time bomb" and a "grenade"? do you just mean it's kind of useless without a locker in it?


Like Dale said its a ticking time bomb.
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  #28  
Old July 23rd, 2015, 03:59 PM
LR Max
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Originally Posted by transientmechanic View Post
Max you'll need to upgrade to 24 spline front halfshafts which are hard to come by for the series right now.
Already got em. But I might get custom shafts made up anyway at the same time. I can only assume the stock shafts are stress fatigued anyway.

Yeah I got a surprise when I ordered 10 spline FWH...and they didn't fit. Then another surprise when I pulled the shaft and found it was 24 spline at the diff.
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  #29  
Old July 23rd, 2015, 04:10 PM
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Wow that's really interesting that its 24 spline at the diff. I'm almost 100% certain that Series were ever built that way (short of the few with Salisbury front axles). Theres some history there.
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  #30  
Old August 8th, 2015, 11:28 AM
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Moderators - Can you move this to a for sale thread? Or let me know if you prefer I start a new thread.
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  #31  
Old August 9th, 2015, 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ionfender View Post
Moderators - Can you move this to a for sale thread? Or let me know if you prefer I start a new thread.
Are they for sale now? What's the price?
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  #32  
Old August 9th, 2015, 11:02 AM
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Moved to the flea market since you don't have a price. Throw in a price and I can move to for sale.

I think there is a limited market for these so I don't think the value is as high as some think, but if you had posted 2 months ago, I would have been a potential buyer
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  #33  
Old August 9th, 2015, 12:43 PM
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$150 for the open third. $600 for the third w/ the Trutrac. Plus the ride

Thanks for the help galpin!
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  #34  
Old August 10th, 2015, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ionfender View Post
$150 for the open third. $600 for the third w/ the Trutrac. Plus the ride

Thanks for the help galpin!
Have we established what brand gears these are? I bought some 4.75 thirds once and 20 minutes on the trail I stripped the ring and pinion. Turns out they were 4.75 gears from a series truck and not aftermarket.
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  #35  
Old August 10th, 2015, 08:07 AM
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Series came in 4.11 and 4.7, correct? My guess is that the buyer has no idea where these R&P's came from, but if they're 4.75, they're not series gears.

The number of teeth on a series 4.7 ring gear is nowhere close to the number of teeth on aftermarket ring gears.
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  #36  
Old August 10th, 2015, 08:23 AM
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crown14 - I do not know the brand of the R&P. I'm happy to look into it if there is a way it can be determined. Would need some guidance on how to go about figuring that out.
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  #37  
Old August 10th, 2015, 08:30 AM
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Would need some guidance on how to go about figuring that out.
Look for stampings on the ring gears. Post photos or transcribe them on this thread.
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  #38  
Old August 10th, 2015, 09:21 AM
LR Max
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If its 4.75, then I think its probably GBR. Series is just 4.7.
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  #39  
Old August 10th, 2015, 06:50 PM
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Stampings or count the teeth on both the ring and the pinion.
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  #40  
Old August 10th, 2015, 10:55 PM
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Ok, here's what I found:

Stamped on the pinion gear is the following: HRC2602005
On the housing that surrounds the pinion gears is: HRC 2547 (pic attached)

Not sure if something is typically stamped on the ring gear, but I didn't see anything. This is all Greek to me. Anyone know how to interpret?

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