2 leather Corbeau GTS II Seats - For sale - $800. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 7th, 2006, 07:49 PM
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Len Bruffett
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2 leather Corbeau GTS II Seats - For sale - $800.

I have a pair of "like new" black leather Corbeau GTS II seats for sale. I bought and installed them on custom seat mounts for my D-90 (using Corbeau sliders) in March of '06. I think they are the greatest thing since sliced bread- my wife does not. She is short and her legs dangle when she sits in the seats. I designed and built a quick removal system so you do not have to re locate the battery under the drivers seat or make any mods to your truck to use these seats. I will sell the pair of seats without the brackets for $800. The seat brackets and quick removal hardware is an additional $50. for the set.
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  #2  
Old September 7th, 2006, 07:54 PM
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Christian Shea
1997 Defender 90 Wagon
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Was your truck originally a hardtop converted with a POE style rear door? Or is it a softop that you got a hardtop for? Do you switch between the two? Sorry for not being sale related, just curious
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  #3  
Old September 7th, 2006, 08:17 PM
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Len Bruffett
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It is a ST with a full metal jacket

Quote:
Originally Posted by gtg067i
Was your truck originally a hardtop converted with a POE style rear door? Or is it a softop that you got a hardtop for? Do you switch between the two? Sorry for not being sale related, just curious

Yes my truck is a '97 soft top. I sourced the roof cap and roof sides from George at RDS, the lift gate from Wise Owl, and the SW roll cage components from Rovers North. And yes, I usually take the hard top off in summer and replace it with the ST roll cage and surrey top. It works well for me. I had a fiberglass hard top, but sold it while it was in good condition. I had seen too many of them suffer desintegration from the usual flexing of everyday use. I plan on keeping my truck for some time and I knew the fiberglass unit wouldn't last 20 years.
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  #4  
Old September 7th, 2006, 08:30 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Someone should buy Len's seats, 50 bucks is a steal for the special brackets he made. They are all stainless and look oh-so-sweet. Len crafts some neat stuff.
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  #5  
Old September 8th, 2006, 06:34 AM
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Chris Hinkle
More than I need
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Len- How far back can the seats go - more, less, or same as stock defender seats? How much higher is the seat - not bolsters, but where my bottom is? i.e. how much closer to the ceiling is your head and do you have to bend down to see stop lights? Any scuffs, etc? Let me know, I am interested in them and bases for my double cab.
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  #6  
Old September 8th, 2006, 08:47 AM
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Tony Brooks
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Tell me about your door panels! Would love to see more pictures . . .
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  #7  
Old September 8th, 2006, 09:59 AM
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Charles Galpin
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How does leather hold up to the elements (think rained on regularily)?

charles
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  #8  
Old September 8th, 2006, 09:20 PM
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Len Bruffett
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"the Fit"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoosier
Len- How far back can the seats go - more, less, or same as stock defender seats? How much higher is the seat - not bolsters, but where my bottom is? i.e. how much closer to the ceiling is your head and do you have to bend down to see stop lights? Any scuffs, etc? Let me know, I am interested in them and bases for my double cab.
Hi Chris,

I collected measurements on the seat. The seat base height (the spot where your butt goes) is 6 inches above the top of the seat box top. The roof the truck is 38 inches from the seat base height. Keep in mind that there is some compression to the seat foam when you sit , but not much. The top of my head is 33 inches above the seat and I have no trouble seeing stop lights. (I am 5' 6" tall). I set the seat sliders up so the base of the seat moves to the rear to within 1" of the lower section of the roll cage (where the cage bolts into the floor of the tub). The seat reclines pass the point to hit the mid section of the roll cage. To really make it recline more you can move your seat forward- then you have more reclining room. The custom seat brackets I made are the same height as the factory corbeaus. To install the seats you place the seat with attached base down over the four rivenuts that are used to hold the factory seats in place. Then use the four 8 mm bolts with fluted knobs to bolt the chair in place. It takes about 3 minutes to remove the seat and five to install. It takes longer to install because you have to align the holes in the base to the rivenut holes. I have been using this system for a few months now and have never had the bolts loosen up. I just hand tighten them. I have never had to really tighten them too hard. Most of the load on the bolts is lateral load. There are no scuffs on the seats. The leather is very supple. I keep it conditioned with "Hide food". I have put it on twice since I bought the seats in march. You can run a quick ergonmic simulation to check your fit by measuring the current height of the seat base in your truck then sit a book on the seat base so it is 6" above the seat box. Sit on it and check the fit.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
How does leather hold up to the elements (think rained on regularily)?

charles
Hi,

I have gotten some rain drops on my seats, but not much. I keep them conditioned with"Hide Food". But it is not a water repellant. I guess you could spray or apply a repellant - I have stuff I put on my leather boots that make them water proof. If you anticipate a lot of rain getting on leather seats I would recommend seat covers during the rainny season.


Len

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrooks
Tell me about your door panels! Would love to see more pictures . . .
Hi Anthony,

My door panels are stainless steel - and quite durable. I replaced the orignials because I didn't believe the plastic panels would last the life of the truck. I just got a new sheet metal brake so I will be making more. I have two bids out to two subcontractors to see who will cut the metal to my specs - one shop is a laser cutter - the other shop is a conventional shear cutter. I cut the prototypes by hand and it takes some time to do a good job cleaning the edges. I am going to offer the panels in a satin finish or the repeated swirl finish. They are a screw on replacement to the original panels. I will also be making them for series trucks as well. I have also made front and rear speaker boxes, center consol, overhead consol and a special fresh air scoop - all out of stainless. All of the components have been field tested for over a year - they all work well, are beyond durable , easy to clean and look sweet. (well at least to me and Napoleon Dynamite they look sweet). If you scratch the brushed finish you can sand out the scratch and renew the finish with scotch brite. When I get the final bids in for the sub contract work I will set some prices and offer them to the D-90 crowd if there is interest.
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  #9  
Old September 8th, 2006, 10:05 PM
Shake
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Bob Hanson AKA Two-Socks
Red 94 D-90 #428
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Wish I could sit in them to see how much more leg room they give me. Anybody now how to move stock seats back as far as possible? Need about three-four inches more room. Thanks.
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  #10  
Old September 9th, 2006, 12:14 AM
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Len Bruffett
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Pic of Door Panel

Quote:
Originally Posted by LenB
Hi Chris,

I collected measurements on the seat. The seat base height (the spot where your butt goes) is 6 inches above the top of the seat box top. The roof the truck is 38 inches from the seat base height. Keep in mind that there is some compression to the seat foam when you sit , but not much. The top of my head is 33 inches above the seat and I have no trouble seeing stop lights. (I am 5' 6" tall). I set the seat sliders up so the base of the seat moves to the rear to within 1" of the lower section of the roll cage (where the cage bolts into the floor of the tub). The seat reclines pass the point to hit the mid section of the roll cage. To really make it recline more you can move your seat forward- then you have more reclining room. The custom seat brackets I made are the same height as the factory corbeaus. To install the seats you place the seat with attached base down over the four rivenuts that are used to hold the factory seats in place. Then use the four 8 mm bolts with fluted knobs to bolt the chair in place. It takes about 3 minutes to remove the seat and five to install. It takes longer to install because you have to align the holes in the base to the rivenut holes. I have been using this system for a few months now and have never had the bolts loosen up. I just hand tighten them. I have never had to really tighten them too hard. Most of the load on the bolts is lateral load. There are no scuffs on the seats. The leather is very supple. I keep it conditioned with "Hide food". I have put it on twice since I bought the seats in march. You can run a quick ergonmic simulation to check your fit by measuring the current height of the seat base in your truck then sit a book on the seat base so it is 6" above the seat box. Sit on it and check the fit.

Follow-up Post:



Hi,

I have gotten some rain drops on my seats, but not much. I keep them conditioned with"Hide Food". But it is not a water repellant. I guess you could spray or apply a repellant - I have stuff I put on my leather boots that make them water proof. If you anticipate a lot of rain getting on leather seats I would recommend seat covers during the rainny season.


Len

Follow-up Post:



Hi Anthony,

My door panels are stainless steel - and quite durable. I replaced the orignials because I didn't believe the plastic panels would last the life of the truck. I just got a new sheet metal brake so I will be making more. I have two bids out to two subcontractors to see who will cut the metal to my specs - one shop is a laser cutter - the other shop is a conventional shear cutter. I cut the prototypes by hand and it takes some time to do a good job cleaning the edges. I am going to offer the panels in a satin finish or the repeated swirl finish. They are a screw on replacement to the original panels. I will also be making them for series trucks as well. I have also made front and rear speaker boxes, center consol, overhead consol and a special fresh air scoop - all out of stainless. All of the components have been field tested for over a year - they all work well, are beyond durable , easy to clean and look sweet. (well at least to me and Napoleon Dynamite they look sweet). If you scratch the brushed finish you can sand out the scratch and renew the finish with scotch brite. When I get the final bids in for the sub contract work I will set some prices and offer them to the D-90 crowd if there is interest.
here is a pic of my door panel
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  #11  
Old September 9th, 2006, 05:39 PM
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WOW Len! That is some nie work!
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  #12  
Old September 10th, 2006, 02:42 PM
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Mike Hill
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Hey Len,

Sent an email about the seats.

Thanks, Mike
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  #13  
Old September 10th, 2006, 02:53 PM
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Mike Lynch
1994 Defender 90 #1017
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I'd be interested in the door panels and speaker boxes when they are avaliable.

Let me know

Thanks,
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  #14  
Old September 11th, 2006, 09:37 PM
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Clark Bowen
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Corbeau seats

Are they still available and are you negotiable on the price?
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  #15  
Old September 11th, 2006, 10:02 PM
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Kevin Buckley
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owww, I want those door panels!
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  #16  
Old September 12th, 2006, 03:43 PM
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Sean Miller
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Hello, I will be in Southern Cal. on the 18th of September and would like to take a look at the seats. Can you email me at seanmiller@beer.com to setup a time? Thanks Sean
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  #17  
Old September 16th, 2006, 01:52 AM
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Len Bruffett
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Seats are SOLD - Thanks D-90.com
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  #18  
Old September 18th, 2006, 10:56 PM
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Jim Ngo
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Len,

Be sure to let us know about the door panels when you get a price.
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  #19  
Old September 19th, 2006, 02:00 AM
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Len Bruffett
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Waiting for the second quote

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimngo
Len,

Be sure to let us know about the door panels when you get a price.
No Problem, I am waiting for a second quote... the first guys (conventional sheer & knoch) cutting have quoted a fair price for 10 panel sets, but said they will need 4 weeks to squeeze me into their schedule. I made a second trip today to the shop that uses lasers to cut the steel and SW to control the lasers. Set up will likely be a tad more expensive, but will allow for shorter runs (less capitol investment on my side) and greater flexibility on any design changes. I was promised a quote in 2 to 3 days. As soon as I hear the second quote I will make the descision and will move forward. I have a brand new pan & box brake sitting on my garage floor waiting to go to work! I have already produced the "model" for Series II and SeriesIII doors so those will also be available after I select the metal cutting sub contractor.

Len
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  #20  
Old September 21st, 2006, 11:27 PM
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marco mirasol
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Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shake
Wish I could sit in them to see how much more leg room they give me. Anybody now how to move stock seats back as far as possible? Need about three-four inches more room. Thanks.
as far as more legroom is concerned...try the MUD-UK seat rails from Expedition Exchange...they give you about two-three inches more room depending on how far back you move the seats...
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