Folks my Defender is for sale, wanted you to see it first.
Contact me by email firstname.lastname@example.org
or cell 907-750-2432
Goes on Craigslist this week
1988 110 County Station Wagon RHD
Stock 3.5V-8, original twin carb
Stock LT-85 5 speed
Stock 1.4 ratio transfer case
Stock full Interior, factory sun roof
Imported through Green Mtn Rovers in 2013
Exterior Epson Green respray (in England)
Interior Bronze Green (original color, much if it new now)
Asking $32,000 OBO
Go to this link for many more photos please:
WORK COMPLETED LAST THREE YEARS
Disk brake upgrade to rear brakes, front calipers replaced, all genuine parts (by Steadfast)
f/r axle halfshaft replaced w/ Ashcroft 24 spline (by Steadfast)
Swivel balls rebuilt plus new f/r axle bearings and seals (by Steadfast)
Terra Firma drive flanges on all 4 wheels (by Steadfast)
Terra Firma rear bumperettes
ARB locking diff installed front axle (by Steadfast)
New OME coil springs, Bilstein shocks
All suspension bushing replaced, genuine LR
All tie rod ends, sway bar ends replaced - Lemsforder brand
Dual Yellow-Top AGM battery system installed in battery compartment
New water pump and radiator installed (aftermarket from Rovahfarm)
All steering column switches (turn, lts, horn, high beam, fog lt) replaced genuine Lucas
New genuine LR heater fan switch
Upgraded Raptor Engineering instrument binnacle mount (steel replacement for plastic)
Head lamp relay upgrade
chassis sandblasted, repainted
Mantec rear spare tire carrier
Engine coil, dist cap, plugs replaced plus Magnecor ignition wires
ARB winch bumper installed
Warn XT 9000 winch with wireless control
Footwells and front floors replaced with YRM replacement parts
New door hinges with stainless hardware
LED turn signal lamp and brake lamp upgrades
Lots of replacement stainless steel screws, nuts and bolts wherever it made sense
Bulkhead corrosion repaired (near heater opening, upper corners)
Seat frames and hardware stripped and repainted
Interior trim removed, cleaned repaired, repainted reinstalled
Insulation added to much of roof, floors, seat boxes, rear tub, some soundproofing
New carpet/matting installed rear tub, middle floor, front floor
New Pioneer Radio/speakers
Too many smaller parts to mention (belts, hoses, seals etc)
More than $11,000 parts, $575 paint and $4,200 in professional labor invested (receipts for all)
Nice solid, tight truck, reliable daily driver
Made upgrades without radically departing from stock appearance
Have 2 brand new SP Landrover galvanized steel front doors and all new internal pieces, latches and door handles. Requires assembly and paint.
Have 1 SP Land Rover rear-most door (conventional aluminum over steel frame) that needs to be painted and installed with the rear wiper motor parts and latch swapped over.
Have new Mud center console for dash, did not install it so you can decide how to configure switches and radios. For example ARB locking diff wire harness is through firewall but switches have not been installed.
Lots of other spare new and used parts, including used switches, radiator, water pump that were working but just old and due for a swap.
Engine runs well, had pre-purchase check - compression all 140-145 and no oil/coolant contamination.
Entire spare 3.5 engine with 90,000 miles included with purchase. Engine running strong when removed from MOD 110 for an engine upgrade. Can connect you with previous owner (Ed at Steadfast)
Y-pipe in exhaust system should be replaced at some point - bad repair job
I am selling this nice rig
Rear main seal in V-8 leaks oil (just like my disco II and RRC do)
Middle doors are completely functional but will need new bottom channels eventually - they were repaired with body putty before I bought it and I have not done a thing to them except add the newest version of weather seals.
I never got around to installing the rear seat belts (middle seats) but I have the belt kits.
Rear mud flaps are both genuine but they donít match
Corrosion - They ALL have some. Whether steel or aluminum I have abated the corrosion I came across and Iíve crawled all over this vehicle and looked behind just about everything at this point. On aluminum parts I treated it the way aircraft aluminum is treated, used acid to clean and etch, then alodined, then repainted. The chassis had surface rust which was removed with sandblast, then painted with cold zinc galvanize and then black paint. The body was not removed from the chassis for sandblasting so its not perfect. I patch-welded the forward left outrigger. No other frame repairs necessary. Bulkhead around air inlet and foot wells had the rusted steel removed and replaced with new steel including YRM zinc treated steel where possible then primed and painted. Front floors are new as well. There is some corrosion inside the bulkhead in the upper corners. Accessible parts have been removed/replaced - other areas have been treated with rust converter and repainted.
Life-situation makes selling my 110/Defender the right decision as hard as that is to do. If you are seriously considering a 110/Defender and are interested in one where 90% of the typical things that you have to do to any 1980ís Defender are already done, than we should talk and see if this one is right for you. My approach was to work my way through the vehicle taking things out and apart, cleaning and repainting and putting it back together mostly stock and as good or better than new. I was slow and methodical and assumed Iíd be keeping the truck for a long time. So for example the rear seats came out, were completely dismantled, sanded and epoxy primed and repainted with 2K paint and reassembled using stainless steel wherever I could unless it interfered with function (stayed with grade 8 steel for structural components). I would say the truck is ready for the last major update and thatís deciding whether to upgrade the V-8 or go to diesel. The LT-85 tranny and transfer case work fine. There is a little whine in 5th gear which Ashcroft and others tells me is normal for that box with 137,000 miles - but I would be thinking of a fresher tranny long-term when you do an engine upgrade. The heater works well, in fact virtually everything works as it should.
The Defender is in Alaska but can be moved to the L48 for less than importing one (one youíve never seen and its impractical to go see) from England, and you can have fun getting this truck down to the L48 too, whether you drive or put it on the Alaska ferry with you and take a 3-day sail to Seattle and offload there. It has a clear Alaska title.
Iíve uploaded quite a few photos on Google Drive and you can use this link to view them here:
If you are serious after looking at the photos and considering the price (below) I am willing to take as much time and be completely transparent about this vehicle and the work Iíve done to insure it gets a good home with someone who will take care of it, take it the last leg, and be satisfied with the truck after buying it.
If you are looking for a Jeep or a Toyota, this is neither.
I am looking for $32,000 OBO. I have about $41k invested which includes more than $11,000 in parts, $575 paint and $4,200 in professional labor invested - much of the labor went into the axle rebuilds/upgrades and the disc brake conversion. I have receipts for all of the parts, paint and work. This does not include hundreds of hours of my time in the shop doing the bulk of the work, which of course I donít expect to be paid for. Itís why I own Land Rovers. Iíve loved just about every hour of it.( a few not so much-electrical). Even so there is still some work to do - getting the new front/rear doors ready to install, and deciding whether to put in a fresh (larger) V-8 and tranny or go the 200 or 300Tdi route, or go with the 1.2 ratio transfer case mod (from 1.4). Install the Mud console and get that all set up with radios and switches the way you want it. Or start getting it ready for long weekend camping trips. There is of course no reason why you couldnít just drive it for the next few years and do very little to it either.