200TDI right setup? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 10th, 2017, 12:41 AM
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Wyman
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200TDI right setup?

Help! I Got these parts a year ago, finally trying to challenge myself to rebuild these and swap on to my 1986 XMOD110(existing 2.5NA ) Can anyone help me to confirm these parts for me ? And also let me know if this would be the right set up to put together? Engine:200TDI Gear Box : LT77/R380? Suffix? Gear ratio ? Transfer box: Gear ratio? Please attached photo, Thank you all!!!
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  #2  
Old December 10th, 2017, 12:50 AM
DiscoDavis
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R380 stumpy (small bellhousing fits in LT77 tunnel)
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  #3  
Old December 10th, 2017, 08:28 AM
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Your transfer case is a 32d. The 32d is a 1.2 ratio box. All tdi defenders came with a 1.4 box suffix 22d. The 1.2 was a common swap for elcheapo brits looking to eek out a few more mpg. This was usually done running smaller/shorter tires than what came on the trucks. The 1.2 should work fine in a light ex mod softop 110. My brother has a 1.2 in one of his 110's (pickup cab) with a 200tdi and 255/85 tires and has been running that configuration since 2008.


Gear box looks to be a G series lt77 thats possibly been rebuilt (last 5 newly stamped no's is something Ashcroft does).

From Ashcroft's site

The 'G' was further improved by all the gear teeth including the pinion getting approx 20% thicker. Also a much wider pump was used to increase the lubrication and cope with the fact that some of the LT77's were now being supplied oil cooled, ie V8 NAS 90, 3.9 RR Classic and the 3.5 EFI Discos.
The 'H' (termed the LT 77S) was the same as the 'G' in terms of strength but used a different synchro set up called the'Double Synchro', In reality it didn't work much better.
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  #4  
Old December 10th, 2017, 08:53 AM
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Since they are separated take a look @ the output/main shaft splines on the transmission, post a picture here if there is any question in your mind if they are worn.

Since your tcase s# end's in E, suggest you pull the rear /round cover off the tcase. Then remove the removeable bearing race that is just under the cover. You can now reach in and remove the input gear of the transfer case, it will slide right out with a slight twist. You don't want to re-use this gear unless it is a cross drilled version. The hole you are looking for looks like this
Ashcroft Transmissions

Otherwise lubricating oil can not reach the splines of the trans output shaft and they will wear quickly and develop a pronounced "clunk" and then eventually strip off completely. This is avoidable by retrofiting the linked crossdrilled gear. If you already have the crossdrilled version you are good to go.

The cross drilled gear came out in 96 so anyone with a pre 96 my truck is in the same boat.
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  #5  
Old December 10th, 2017, 09:16 AM
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Strange serial number on the LT77. Hard to determine the gear ratio and I'm not so sure the G is the suffix.
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  #6  
Old December 10th, 2017, 09:41 AM
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Replace all yellow metal in that transmission if you are rebuilding.

Replace all the transmission forks and baulk rings.

Replace all the bearings and seals.

Check condition of the sleeve teeth....replace if necessary.

Note: I run a very early suffix LT77 and a 1.2 transfer case on 32's. I'm probably going to move to 33's or 34's the next time I plan on buying tires.
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Old December 10th, 2017, 10:51 AM
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Wyman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
Since they are separated take a look @ the output/main shaft splines on the transmission, post a picture here if there is any question in your mind if they are worn.

Since your tcase s# end's in E, suggest you pull the rear /round cover off the tcase. Then remove the removeable bearing race that is just under the cover. You can now reach in and remove the input gear of the transfer case, it will slide right out with a slight twist. You don't want to re-use this gear unless it is a cross drilled version. The hole you are looking for looks like this
Ashcroft Transmissions

Otherwise lubricating oil can not reach the splines of the trans output shaft and they will wear quickly and develop a pronounced "clunk" and then eventually strip off completely. This is avoidable by retrofiting the linked crossdrilled gear. If you already have the crossdrilled version you are good to go.

The cross drilled gear came out in 96 so anyone with a pre 96 my truck is in the same boat.
Thanks, Doug.
Just check the input gear on the LT , lucky I have cross drilled gear. Spline all look good . What is the best way to check output gear play ? Thanks.

------ Follow up post added December 10th, 2017 09:54 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Strange serial number on the LT77. Hard to determine the gear ratio and I'm not so sure the G is the suffix.
Yep, I was confused too with The serial number on the LT 77
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  #8  
Old December 10th, 2017, 11:52 AM
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Wyman
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Hi, Doug On the LT After lock diff, found play , is this normal?
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  #9  
Old December 10th, 2017, 01:11 PM
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What are you trying to do in the video?

You're barely rotating the rear output flange, just wobbling it back and forth. To what point, exactly?

The video doesn't show anything that is out of the ordinary.

If the diff lock is disengaged, turning the rear output flange should rotate the front output flange in the opposite direction.

If the diff lock is engaged, turning the rear output flange should rotate the front output flange in the same direction.

There will be slop. Play is normal
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  #10  
Old December 10th, 2017, 07:09 PM
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Yes that is normal and it is the center differential @ work. If you move the diff lock over to the lock position it should completely go away.
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