1993 Range Rover SWB - Page 4 - Defender Source
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  #61  
Old August 26th, 2012, 09:48 AM
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You broke down and philly and did not call me?

I am disappointed. I have a stack of working alternators.

Congrats on the new truck.
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  #62  
Old August 26th, 2012, 01:14 PM
Roving Beetle
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Completely forgot about you!! I knew there were People around and that's why I posted - honestly I was simply exhausted and not thinking 100% clearly. Plus she sounded bad but not much worse from the previous day so I just ran it... And made it!

Thanks all!

Now to fix her up a bit and do a few details to her.
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  #63  
Old August 26th, 2012, 03:20 PM
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6.0L swap. I'll be up Friday at 4:30.
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  #64  
Old August 26th, 2012, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roving Beetle View Post
Now to fix her up a bit and do a few details to her. BEFORE I LISTED FOR SALE

Fixed it for you
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  #65  
Old August 26th, 2012, 04:53 PM
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That's funny I told him the same thing. I give 3 weeks and it will on the chopping block.
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  #66  
Old August 26th, 2012, 07:37 PM
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I will AT LEAST get a nice motor, either the 6L GMC truck motor I have sitting around already or a built VW TDI (also sitting here) in there before I sell her.

I like this one.... far more so than any others I've had. We will see!

Found today going over her in my shop/on the lift someone had done manifold work to her in the past and left the locking tabs un-bent. 3 bolts on one side VERY loose (where she had a slight leak) and 4 loose on the pass side - two of which were hanging by a thread or two!!!! But not leaking oddly.

Moral of that one: check your manifold bolts! Use the locking tabs once everything is torqued down.

The wandering steering is snugged up - the box had some play but mostly the column shaft u-joint where it connects to the spline on the box was VERY loose... so loose in fact I am surprised it had not slipped. Actually quite freaky really - SO GLAD that stayed together for the drive. Also the rubber flex coupling rag-joint is a bit burnt and coming apart - missing the heat shield - again a little freaky.

Moral of that: Check your steering u-joints, rag joints and couplings, they get forgotten about and everyone worries about the driveshafts but that steering is kinda' important!

I still get a fair bit of wander under hard braking, may need to install the cranked radius arms sooner than later? OR would this be too much toe-out?

Need to look at a wire diagram to figure out the horn - if there is a relay or not etc. Not working.

Same as above for the AC/Heater controls/fan. Nothing working at all. No fan, no nothing.

Cleaned the intake and throttle body today, flushed the power steering fluid, changed the engine oil & started prepping my LT230 for instal.

AWESOME truck! Love it.
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  #67  
Old August 26th, 2012, 09:22 PM
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Replace the manifold bolts with the later type 12pt ones that use the spacer. I have about 400 if you want a set just let me know.

The RRC hard dash model horn works like a defender. The button is on the end of the turn signal stalk, not on the steering wheel. Not sure if you knew that, bit the horn worked fine for me.

Wander under hard braking, replace the rear link to chassis bushings. There are some in that polybush kit.
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  #68  
Old August 26th, 2012, 09:26 PM
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The horn works, its very euro.

I need those manifold bolts.


Don't cut the console for LT230 linkage.
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  #69  
Old August 26th, 2012, 10:19 PM
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I'd love a set of bolts - thanks!

Rear link to chassis - as in the rear axle? The steering wheel feels like it pulls a bit so do you mean the rear end of the fwd arms to chassis?

Yes I know where the button is! ha ha. It doesn't do anything, found out the first time some asshat tried to cut me off in a traffic jam on i-95. Tested today and no power getting to horns behind grill. Unless there is a hidden fuse someplace other than the main block on the dash.

Still learning my way around the hard dash RRC - finding the window ECU is next and the AC/Heater relays etc.

I am going to need a few parts if either of you (Joel/Phillip) or anyone else reading this know of a cargo cover, seat switches (known 100% good ones), the dash mounted ADS subwoofer rotary switch, drivers side upper tail gate latch assembly and a very good condition heated windscreen (shipped/insured maybe Will T?).

Thanks for the help.

Joel: Alternator will be sent back asap so you can get your $ back. I'll figure out what to do here, probably rebuild it locally since I have a great place here that does it.
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Currently driving an ex-southern 1993 SWB RRC with too much "kit". Massive conversion and interior swap in process.
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  #70  
Old August 26th, 2012, 10:25 PM
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How does it compare to the TWR?
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  #71  
Old August 26th, 2012, 11:06 PM
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Re: the wheel pulling but under hard braking there is a good amount of weight transfer to the front of the truck and as the rear unloads if the rear link to chassis bushings have play in them the axle walks a bit and basically rear-steers the entire truck. It feels like the front end is pulling, and if you try to compensate with the steering wheel it will pitch the truck the wrong way and amplify the feeling. I mean where the rear lower links attach to the chassis, replace those bushings before you do anything else. Its easy, you already have the parts and new hardware, the bushings looked factory to me, and I bet that tightens up things quite a bit. I put new rubber bushings on my '88 model RRC six years ago and after driving it tonight I can tell you there is a big difference in the handling between these two lifted SWB trucks.

It sounds like the long highway runs not only killed a cat, but loosened up a bunch of things that were fine on shorter trips. I wouldn't be surprised if those bushings were impacted as well, the factory ones usually don't last long once a truck is lifted.

I am sure I played the old "honey do you hear that noise behind the grille?" trick to my wife and the horns worked. Maybe there is a loose connection somewhere?

Whats wrong with the ADS subwoofer dial? Sunroof ECU in a '95 Classic is in the dash where a D1 is, but I think prior to that in the RRC they were somewhere in the center console.
The seat switches were fine too! WTF!

PM/email me your address and I will mail you a set of the bolts/spacers in the box the alternator came in, then you can just throw the alternator in the box and ship it back. Let me know the shipping cost and I will cover it.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Roving Beetle View Post
I'd love a set of bolts - thanks!

Rear link to chassis - as in the rear axle? The steering wheel feels like it pulls a bit so do you mean the rear end of the fwd arms to chassis?

Yes I know where the button is! ha ha. It doesn't do anything, found out the first time some asshat tried to cut me off in a traffic jam on i-95. Tested today and no power getting to horns behind grill. Unless there is a hidden fuse someplace other than the main block on the dash.

Still learning my way around the hard dash RRC - finding the window ECU is next and the AC/Heater relays etc.

I am going to need a few parts if either of you (Joel/Phillip) or anyone else reading this know of a cargo cover, seat switches (known 100% good ones), the dash mounted ADS subwoofer rotary switch, drivers side upper tail gate latch assembly and a very good condition heated windscreen (shipped/insured maybe Will T?).

Thanks for the help.

Joel: Alternator will be sent back asap so you can get your $ back. I'll figure out what to do here, probably rebuild it locally since I have a great place here that does it.
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  #72  
Old August 27th, 2012, 07:15 AM
Roving Beetle
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Joel - alt is already boxed up to ship. No worries on costs.

Window ECU - not sunroof, just to try and figure out the rear window issue.

Seat switches are somewhat OK but a couple functions don't work. Typical and not a big deal.

And yes - I think a long trip loosened her up and showed her age. I fully expected her to be a bit cranky on such an adventure! All part of the fun and it will be nice "bringing her back." She's a solid driver and exactly what I wanted and was told she was.

------ Follow up post added August 27th, 2012 07:22 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gore Ranger View Post
How does it compare to the TWR?
This one is NOT as much of a prom queen that you dont dare to touch, which is good and bad I suppose. But really much more of what I like, need and desire out of a truck. It's easily as nice and as solid a truck overall. In a lot of ways I am glad I went the hard dash old style interior - fits me better some how, I like the funky old school style while it's still plenty comfortable.
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