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  #1  
Old November 25th, 2007, 06:46 PM
Panama Disco
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Peter
98' Defender 90 300 Tdi
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Panama City, Panama
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Smile New Guy

Hello Everyone,

Iím new to this forum and I would like to introduce you guys my new ride a 98' D90 300 Tdi, bought it with 165500 Km last week for $13,000. Iím usually on landroversonly (had a disco II) forum but I have found that D90 source has a great deal of information on Defenders.

I been looking at some threads regarding rust removal the one that got most of my attention is this one. But is still not clear to me which are the best products to use for ďrust removal and treatmentĒ I keep reading 3m, waxoyl and ospho? Iím dealing with some rust on the floor panels as you can see on the pictures. Correct me if Iím wrong but first would be to sand out or use a wire brush to remove the rust? Do I have to use a product for this? And then apply a treatment for it? Can someone guide me to through steps on how to remove the rust and treat it?


I also think it has some kind of a water leak through the clutch pedal; I have no idea how the water is getting there or from where.

Best regards to all.
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  #2  
Old November 25th, 2007, 07:11 PM
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Buckon37s
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Buck
Re-Fendered 90
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Temecula, CA, USA
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Hey,

Don't have any specific info for you but your truck brings me back. It looks exactly like mine looked when I bought it. Mine was in much worse shape though.
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  #3  
Old November 25th, 2007, 09:58 PM
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woldd90
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Scott
1997 D90 ST #1444
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Welcome to the site...
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  #4  
Old November 26th, 2007, 12:42 AM
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Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
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Welcome!

That rust really doesn't look bad to me I suggest wire brushing it and then treating it with any of the products that convert the rust to metal, then top coat it. Don't forget to address it from below.

As far as the source of the leak, try spray the front of the truck with a garden hose and see where the water comes in. It might be through the vent seals.

hth
charles
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  #5  
Old November 26th, 2007, 12:49 PM
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Mike
Birmabright Bread Box/Swagger Wagon
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Thumbs up

Congrats on the purchase and welcome to the forum!

About the leak...
It might be the clutch hydraulic fluid leaking from the clutch master cylinder, which will eat the paint. Is it dripping down the clutch pedal? If you think that it is water, the seal between the clutch box and the toe-box may be broken. Does it only leak when it rains hard?

Good luck!

Cheers...
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  #6  
Old November 26th, 2007, 04:29 PM
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Ron
1994 NAS Defender 90
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sand blast, epoxy primer, and paint.
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  #7  
Old November 26th, 2007, 04:42 PM
Panama Disco
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Peter
98' Defender 90 300 Tdi
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Panama City, Panama
Posts: 14
thanks guys for all your ideas and opinions....any thoughts on POR-15? the starter Kit looks pretty good, two of them could do the job for the floor panels.

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=SSK&dept=11
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  #8  
Old November 26th, 2007, 07:05 PM
Kev Baldwin
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Kevin Baldwin
2.4 Tdci 110 Utilty Wagon
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: UK
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Agree with Grover. Classic indication that the clutch master cylinder has been leaking at some time. It's the clutch fluid that has eaten the paintwork away leaving the bare (rusty) metal showing. Chances are the cylinder has been replaced at some time and the previous owner didn't bother to clean up the mess.
If it's leaking now, you should see tell-tale drips of fluid on the floor and fliud on the pedal. The paint on the pedal usually blisters. If you're confronted with leaking fliud, don't worry it's an easy fix. Don't mess around with replacement seal kits, buy a complete new unit and ask for the genuine 'Girling' cylinder rather than fit the notoriously crappy aftermarket cylinders. Lots of people like to change the clutch slave cylinder at the same time.
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  #9  
Old November 26th, 2007, 07:23 PM
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Overlander
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mark kellgren
in between D's in an 04 D2
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POR-15 is fantastic. It goes on and stays on. I did a J**p frame with it, and it's like an armor. makes the whole undercarriage look new, and it can take a beating. I'm going to do my 110 frame in the spring. It prefers a little rust to bond. My 110 frame has zero rust on it (believe it or not) so I'll be doing it as a preventative.

if you use it, make sure to get the marine clean and metal prep. they are key to the process.
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  #10  
Old November 26th, 2007, 08:14 PM
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JFD
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Julien Dalbin
05 Tdi 90
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Bienvenido vecino !!!

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  #11  
Old November 26th, 2007, 11:21 PM
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Mike
'97 Defender 90 SW
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Location: Durango, Colo.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
Mine was in much worse shape though.
Well, I'm not surprised. Your first avatar has you driving up on a curb. Now it shows you on your side. I get the feeling you don't drive so well
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  #12  
Old November 28th, 2007, 08:43 PM
Panama Disco
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Peter
98' Defender 90 300 Tdi
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Panama City, Panama
Posts: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kev Baldwin
Agree with Grover. Classic indication that the clutch master cylinder has been leaking at some time. It's the clutch fluid that has eaten the paintwork away leaving the bare (rusty) metal showing. Chances are the cylinder has been replaced at some time and the previous owner didn't bother to clean up the mess.
If it's leaking now, you should see tell-tale drips of fluid on the floor and fliud on the pedal. The paint on the pedal usually blisters. If you're confronted with leaking fliud, don't worry it's an easy fix. Don't mess around with replacement seal kits, buy a complete new unit and ask for the genuine 'Girling' cylinder rather than fit the notoriously crappy aftermarket cylinders. Lots of people like to change the clutch slave cylinder at the same time.
Thanks, its not leaking since i bought it but ill check it out, strip some parts and see if everything is in order. again thanks for the help, i m glad that i m part of this forum, theres so many people with a lot of knowledge and willing to help out.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander
POR-15 is fantastic. It goes on and stays on. I did a J**p frame with it, and it's like an armor. makes the whole undercarriage look new, and it can take a beating. I'm going to do my 110 frame in the spring. It prefers a little rust to bond. My 110 frame has zero rust on it (believe it or not) so I'll be doing it as a preventative.

if you use it, make sure to get the marine clean and metal prep. they are key to the process.
nice to hear it works, a friend sent me some POR15 kits in silver, best color for heavy rust areas, so im waiting for it to arrive and give it a try, although i have some concern because on another forum some one send me this link comparing the POR 15 with another product, any thoughts on this...?

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by JFD
Bienvenido vecino !!!

Gracias hermano !
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  #13  
Old November 29th, 2007, 07:53 AM
hamiamham
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mike
97 D-90
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New York City
Posts: 190
and rustbullet claims to smoke them all. i wish someone wud do a comprehensive testing of multiple products.
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  #14  
Old November 29th, 2007, 09:36 AM
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Stmpede
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Andrew Najarian
'93 NAS D110 #43
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I've used this stuff. It seems pretty good but I just bought several POR-15 products and plan to try them also. In a few weeks I'll be using the POR-15 and can give you an update on which seems better.
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  #15  
Old November 30th, 2007, 01:35 PM
Panama Disco
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Peter
98' Defender 90 300 Tdi
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Panama City, Panama
Posts: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by hamiamham
and rustbullet claims to smoke them all. i wish someone wud do a comprehensive testing of multiple products.
True

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stmpede
I've used this stuff. It seems pretty good but I just bought several POR-15 products and plan to try them also. In a few weeks I'll be using the POR-15 and can give you an update on which seems better.
Nice, hope it works, keep us posted.
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