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  #61  
Old August 19th, 2013, 01:54 PM
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Jeff B
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Who did you buy this 90 from and who shipped it?

1. Did it drive onto the transport under its own power??
If yes, then shipper screwed you.
If no, then seller screwed you.

Seems pretty simple...
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  #62  
Old August 19th, 2013, 02:04 PM
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My recommendation:

1. Send an email to Dave Ashcroft at Ashcroft-Transmissions UK. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/ info@ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk. Tell him about your symptoms exactly. My bet is that he has seen your problem many times and knows exactly what's broken. He is an expert on these transmissions and can advise you better on what it takes to fix your issue. It is possible that it can be done with a new tranny or a $200 rebuild kit. Either way, you really should know in advance what you are dealing with.

2. Check with Dave about the total cost including shipping of one of his remanufactured LT77's from the UK to your home via air mail. He sends them all over the world. It might be cost competitive with what you're finding on ebay and the difference is that you're getting it from Dave who guarantees his product.

3. Think of the possibility of swapping to part #STUMPY or a short-bellhousing R380. This seized transmission could be an opportunity in disguise to upgrade to a beefier tranny.

4. Be patient and look around for deals (the $500 LT77). Cheap LT77's exist out there, but you may have to wait a bit to find one. In the meantime, I would drop your existing transmission and LT230, and use this as an opportunity to clean and service the truck while you wait for parts - especially things like engine seals, etc.

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  #63  
Old August 19th, 2013, 02:59 PM
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What he said ^^.

Things to consider if you are seeking reimbursement from the shipper:

1) Does your shipping contract indemnify the shipper of mechanical and other drive terrain type damages that occur during transit and final delivery (most likely)? If yes, then there is little to no recourse in filling a claim with the shipper. If no then;

2) Did you note the transmission issue(s) on the final bill of lading prior to signing? If yes, that will be your single most important tool in filing a claim against the shipper. If no, then there is little to no recourse in filling the claim.

Good luck in getting it sorted and back on the road.
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  #64  
Old August 20th, 2013, 10:57 AM
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From Ashcroft:

Quote:
Sorry to hear of your problem.

The only thing we can think of is that the selector pin has snapped in the yoke, so as you are trying to select a gear it is just spinning on the selector rail. However this would seem most unusual that this has just failed like that, especially as it wasn’t being driven at the time.* Worth checking however, not sure what else to suggest.

A replacement LT77 would be 645 and a short bellhousing R380 would be 995.

I can only estimate the shipping at this stage but would imagine it would be between 200-250 door to local airport.
I assume the selector pin they're talking about is the grub scree everyone else mentioned?

By today's currency prices, that comes out to about $1400.

And if this were the only problem this Rover presented me with, I'd probably be in a happier place, but it's not, despite being sold as mechanically and aesthetically clean. As I said, I'm seriously reconsidering making it my daily driver, which means selling it all over again.
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  #65  
Old August 20th, 2013, 11:09 AM
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I'm someone will chip in and help pin point the place to look ...

Buying a defender is an emotional roller coaster ... the shock of seeing rust and bits hanging off it to start with .... the huge list of fixes that need to be done ... after a while you settle into the oddities of things not working ... the feathering of the gear change to avoid the grind .... constantly wiggling bulbs to make them work .... after a short time you love it for what it is not what it could be ... daily driver is fine as long as you are not expecting it to be a BMW ride!
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  #66  
Old August 20th, 2013, 11:16 AM
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I know I can only speak for myself, but 1400 for a new transmission seems to me rather cheap considering the vehicle.
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  #67  
Old August 20th, 2013, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
I know I can only speak for myself, but 1400 for a new transmission seems to me rather cheap considering the vehicle.
No shit, I was thinking the same - I might be hitting Ashcroft up when I need a tranny for my rebuild.
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  #68  
Old August 20th, 2013, 12:34 PM
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Ashcroft ships by dhl. DHL get you for some undisclosed service fee and since its coming in airfreight to an airport you have to go the dhl get the paper work and then go to customs @ the airport and clear it which is simple, they usually fill the forms out for you, and then go back and pay dhl their "service fee". Mine ended up being right around $1550 in my hands.

Fix it regardless. Once it is on the road, to sell it or drive it will be an easier decision. Sucks you just moved etc.
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  #69  
Old August 20th, 2013, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linoge View Post
From Ashcroft:

I assume the selector pin they're talking about is the grub scree everyone else mentioned?

By today's currency prices, that comes out to about $1400.

And if this were the only problem this Rover presented me with, I'd probably be in a happier place, but it's not, despite being sold as mechanically and aesthetically clean. As I said, I'm seriously reconsidering making it my daily driver, which means selling it all over again.
Honestly I'd have been happy with just replacing a transmission as my intro to rover ownership. Unfortunately mine was the ECU blowing a week after I got it and long before I knew about this site. Paying over 3k to fix my dream truck was a shock. But I didn't let it stop me from enjoying and keeping the truck.
From some of your posts it sounds like a defender isn't for you. You have to be willing to either work on theses things or pay the money to have someone fix them or some combo of the two. If that doesn't sound appealing then look at selling it.
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  #70  
Old August 20th, 2013, 01:12 PM
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consider the age of the vehicle and accept that you will need to refresh the powertrain of any old vehicle to make it DD worthy. true of almost any 10+ year old vehicle (and yours is 25+ right)? after the initial pain of the refresh, you'll have a reluable vehicle and a fresh tranny to start. if you ordered a tranny today from ashcroft, you would hv it early next week. i just replaced mine myself in 2 days, and you dont need any special tools.

the upfront constant maintenace we all seem to mostly have would falk more under the classification of "restoration" not "reliability design".
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  #71  
Old August 20th, 2013, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linoge View Post
I assume the selector pin they're talking about is the grub scree everyone else mentioned?
I think Dave is not referring to the grub screw, but instead the pins located on the quadrant shaft (as Bill mentioned).

http://www.landroverworkshop.com/dia...assembly_53526

Sometimes it helps to look at a picture.

The selector yoke (#16) is attached to the selector shaft (#9) via the grub screw (#17).

If the grub screw is broken, then moving the shifter has no effect, as the selector shaft is disconnected from the yoke.

Let us get back to your problem. You have identified that the grub screw is not broken. Good. Next is to note how the motion of the gear lever is translated to the quadrant shaft.

First, as the selector shaft is moved, the lever selector mechanism (#10) is meshed with the quadrant selector rail (#7). In order for one to move the other, the selector pin (#11) and the roller (#13) must be intact.

If those pieces are intact, then move on to the quadrant shaft. The quadrant shaft is connected to the selector rail via the quadrant to shaft pin (#8). If all parts are intact to this point, then the quadrant shaft should move when you move the shifter.

Now, open up this post:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=52887

In: http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/p...g?t=1265491080

You see the selector housing.

Remove this housing.

In: http://i422.photobucket.com/albums/p...g?t=1265491134

Once you remove the selector housing, you should see the quadrant selector rail. This is how you diagnose the part that Dave is referencing.

Now, once you have your selector housing off, you should be able to move the quadrant shaft fore and aft by hand. Also try rotating the selector rail by hand. If it is "stuck" then the problem is in the gearbox.

If it is not stuck and can move left and right, then the problem is somewhere in the shift lever.
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  #72  
Old August 20th, 2013, 01:23 PM
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On youtube, a brit rover mechanic called trailfitter recently did several videos with dave ashcroft on the lt77 and r380. watch them to understand everything.
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  #73  
Old August 20th, 2013, 01:32 PM
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This is some of the best guidance I have ever seen for a new owner on any internet group. I hope it is appreciated!
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  #74  
Old August 21st, 2013, 10:45 PM
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Was sold by me guys and drove on to the shippers trailer and was moved by the shipper couple times at different stops. Thus me thinking something jiggled lose on last part of the trip to TN.
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  #75  
Old August 21st, 2013, 10:56 PM
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Jeff beat me to it. Youtube has some great LR videos.

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  #76  
Old August 22nd, 2013, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
On youtube, a brit rover mechanic called trailfitter recently did several videos with dave ashcroft on the lt77 and r380. watch them to understand everything.
Nice.

I wish we'd had this magic interweb thing in 1986 when I had to repair my LT77.
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  #77  
Old August 26th, 2013, 05:36 PM
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Thanks for all that information, sonoronos - that was definitely one of the most useful posts on this thread. I'll be sure to pass that schematic and information on to the mechanic when he gets back from vacation next week.
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  #78  
Old September 10th, 2013, 12:43 PM
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Heard back from the shop.

Regardless of everything else, I am up to about $900 for dropping the transmission and putting something back in its place.

While they are there, they plan on resurfacing the flywheel and installing a clutch kit (neither included in the $900). Speaking of, anyone have a line on affordable '85 D90 LT77 clutch kits?

As for the transmission itself, the verdict that was passed on to the office worker I spoke to is that "the shifter is jammed in the transmission". They are currently researching causes/parts, but this would seem to track with what Sonoronos posted.

At this point, given the cost to get to this point, I am seriously considering entirely replacing the transmission. We will see what the Keeper of the Checkbook has to say.
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  #79  
Old September 10th, 2013, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linoge View Post
Heard back from the shop.

Regardless of everything else, I am up to about $900 for dropping the transmission and putting something back in its place.

While they are there, they plan on resurfacing the flywheel and installing a clutch kit (neither included in the $900). Speaking of, anyone have a line on affordable '85 D90 LT77 clutch kits?

As for the transmission itself, the verdict that was passed on to the office worker I spoke to is that "the shifter is jammed in the transmission". They are currently researching causes/parts, but this would seem to track with what Sonoronos posted.

At this point, given the cost to get to this point, I am seriously considering entirely replacing the transmission. We will see what the Keeper of the Checkbook has to say.

Which engine ? Engine dictates clutch parts.
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  #80  
Old September 10th, 2013, 01:23 PM
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Sorry, 2.25L.
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