D90 Won't Shift, at all - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old August 7th, 2013, 09:13 PM
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You may very well be right, but the screws I needed to remove were/are currently inaccessible on account of cubby box and the floor plating underneath it. I was ok-ish with disassembling the tunnel because that was fairly straightforward, but when it comes to outright disassembling the entire interior... there's "comfort zone" and then there's "I'm just going to break stuff" zone.

When coupled with the binary problem of "I work" and "I'm really, *really* hoping this truck works this weekend", and here we are. Part of me wishes I had time to do this myself, but the realistic part of me is quite comfortable where I am right now.
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  #22  
Old August 7th, 2013, 09:21 PM
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This will be part of the stories you tell about your first Defender, years from now. We have all been in similar situations, and we are still addicted to the trucks.
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  #23  
Old August 7th, 2013, 10:54 PM
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I guess that makes me the Kate Moss of the rover world...the things I've done for rover parts
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  #24  
Old August 7th, 2013, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linoge View Post
You may very well be right, but the screws I needed to remove were/are currently inaccessible on account of cubby box and the floor plating underneath it. I was ok-ish with disassembling the tunnel because that was fairly straightforward, but when it comes to outright disassembling the entire interior... there's "comfort zone" and then there's "I'm just going to break stuff" zone.

When coupled with the binary problem of "I work" and "I'm really, *really* hoping this truck works this weekend", and here we are. Part of me wishes I had time to do this myself, but the realistic part of me is quite comfortable where I am right now.
I can totally see where you are coming from. And hearing that you just got it and want to use it I would be doing the same thing.

Just remember for future issues:

- you kinda can't "break stuff" with these vehicles. Everything is fixable or at least there is a work around. No matter how much you do to them there is always something that will need to be fixed.
- do a search, and then post pics and a good description if you can't find your answer and there is a very good chance someone will know what the hell is going on.
- research whatever is broken even if it is going to the shop. The shop may not know more than you.

Let us know what was the issue. There seems at times they there is a behind the scenes "guess the issue" contest on the Technical posts.
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  #25  
Old August 8th, 2013, 12:14 AM
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Oh, don't worry, y'all will be getting a full report of whatever the issue turns out to be, if only to help anyone else with this issue in the future.

Wish I had time to sort through it myself, but we're in the middle of a move, and I was planning on using the 90 to move stuff; hard to do when the truck won't move under its own power. So, for now, I am hoping for a quick fix, and we'll try again in the future.
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  #26  
Old August 8th, 2013, 02:04 PM
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Dealership gave up.....go figure. I have a D90 member/ friend going to check it out next week. Any one else in the Knoxville area that might be able to help him sooner? Or recommend a good local shop
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  #27  
Old August 8th, 2013, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Linoge View Post
but when it comes to outright disassembling the entire interior...
One of the benefits of Defender ownership is that you can completely disassemble the interior with a screwdriver and some wrenches in half a day. You should be able to reassemble it in the same amount of time, but shipfitter's disease usually sets in by then.
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  #28  
Old August 8th, 2013, 02:22 PM
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Great to have an answer to my first question. Time to check the Birmabright Brotherhood.
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  #29  
Old August 8th, 2013, 02:40 PM
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The dealership indicated they would need to drop and disassemble the transmission to diagnose it any farther than "yup, it's broke", and that doing so would cost me somewhere on the order of $800 in labor alone. They were at least ready and willing to admit that there are probably cheaper shops around, and that I should probably use one of them.

The wife has about had it with the truck. Yes, we know Rovers require constant work and maintenance (her dad has had a II and IIA for her entire life), but this is a bit above and beyond; if this had happened a year from now, that would be one thing, but having it come off the trailer functionally inop... Yeah, that's not a good start.

And Knoxville, despite having a lot of other things going for it, does not seem to have a large number of shops that specialize in British vehicles.
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  #30  
Old August 8th, 2013, 02:57 PM
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Have you confirmed there is fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir? have you tried jacking up one wheel to see if there is binding in the driveline (long shot on that one)?
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  #31  
Old August 8th, 2013, 03:00 PM
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I'll give you $5000 for as it sits...
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  #32  
Old August 8th, 2013, 03:32 PM
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Oh jeez - guess it didn't have an OBD port to tell them what is wrong. To the dealership's defense they are designed to move product thru quickly to pay for the fancy show room.

Are there any good 4x4 shops in the area? A decent mechanic will be able to diagnose if they take their time to learn a little about it.

The problem (although a plus for many of us) with the UK imports is they are bastards as far as most shops are concerned.

I would tow it home and stick it in the garage and take a break from it. I find issues with these rigs are much easier when you take your time. Get the manual read all about the gearbox and look at diagrams. I am sure you are mad as hell not being able to drive it but half the fun of ownership is learning these things inside and out and taking pride that you turned wrenches on it. #builtnotbought
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  #33  
Old August 8th, 2013, 03:33 PM
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Something must be going on with he shift linkage housing thing. If the grub screw is tight, but the shaft still wont move, it has to be the shaft binding in its bore, or the quadrant roll pin sheared or something. It's probably a part that is less than $5 but takes half your life to get to. Am I wrong that the whole selector housing lifts off the LT77 after you get the bolts out? I think they are 10mm and 13mm heads.
Gasket set RTC6797 for the top housing, if I am not mistaken. 3.75 at craddock's for that.
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  #34  
Old August 8th, 2013, 03:44 PM
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I did not check the clutch fluid levels, but given I could not get it to grind the gears, much less get the shifter to move sideways hardly at all, I doubt the clutch is broken. Or, rather, I doubt the clutch is the first level of problems.

I have contacted a local shop my wife uses for her Volvo - they specialize in mainland European imports, but he is apparently willing to take it apart and see what is going on. Likewise, there's a gentleman here in Knoxville who's willing to part out / sell me a completely functioning LT77 if it comes down to that.

Unfortunately, I purchased the D90 to assist with our ongoing move that has to be done by the end of the month, and then take over duties as my DD afterwards, so this is significantly more than just a minor annoyance. I guess it is just as well I have not sold my Mustang yet, and I am seriously reconsidering having the D90 as my sole vehicle.

The shaft definitely will not move (any more than it did already) with me cranking on it directly with a wrench insert into the gear shifter's socket. I'll need to replace the gear shifter housing gasket anywise, given it disintegrated when I popped the housing off the transmission.
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  #35  
Old August 8th, 2013, 03:46 PM
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post a video ... the description is ambiguous....
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  #36  
Old August 8th, 2013, 03:54 PM
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The transmission should go into gear regardless of whether the engine is running or the clutch is working. Just parked, engine off, you should be able to move the gear shift lever into each gear with minimal effort and fuss.
If it was working, then was shipped, and is now not working, it is not related to operating failure. Must be something that can happen when parked. Not much on that list of possibilities.
My money iis on something with the selector linkage.
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  #37  
Old August 8th, 2013, 04:00 PM
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Trevor @ RovahFarm can get you the gaskets. He might even have them on the shelf.
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  #38  
Old August 8th, 2013, 04:36 PM
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First things first, start your diagnosis from the easiest thing to check. BEFORE you take apart or remove your transmission. That would be the clutch fluid level. Yes it sounds like a long shot but it is easy to check. Also lift a tire to check for drivetrain bind. Both can result in the vehicle not going into or coming out of gear. Is the handbrake off? Can you rotate the handbrake drum? have you tried working the lever while someone rocks the car back and forth? What happens if you try to start the car? i.e is it in gear or in neutral?

Don't discount this advice...as Pendy says "Advice is only as good as the person applying it--
Don't make me give you bad advice!"
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  #39  
Old August 8th, 2013, 06:29 PM
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On the dealers- its been a long time since a manual transmission truck was imported/sold by JLRNA-1995. Most dealership techs have not only never seen or worked on one you can be certain they haven't been trained on working on them. If it were me, I'd grab the known good local trans, install it and get on with life. I have been driving Land Rovers since the 70's and I have yet to have one that I was "constantly working on". On the contrary, service them at suggested intervals and fix em when you break them which in my case is almost always done off road. I put 40k a year on what ever my predominant vehicle is @ any given time. Right now its a d2 I got from Trevor and I have put 27k on it since January. In my experience the trucks respond best to constant use. Sitting unused is the worst for a rover
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  #40  
Old August 8th, 2013, 08:06 PM
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Every series's and Defender I have has always been a constant project. I wish I could do 27k on one of them without and issue
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