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  #1  
Old December 25th, 2012, 11:04 AM
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YRM sills

I am looking to remove the nasty rusty sills from my truck and do the rubber seals on the doors.

Question I have pertains to the galvanized threshold that YRM sells. It's the part that the floors and I believe T posts mount to. Is this a bolt in piece or do I need to weld?

I know I can grind the rust off, paint, bondo, etc but the idea of remove the rusty parts and replacing with galvanized really appeals to me.
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  #2  
Old December 25th, 2012, 11:34 AM
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If the sills on your 110 are rusted, you should replace the entire assembly. Thing is, that in order to repair just the sills, you have to disassemble everything just as you would if you did the whole thing. New t-posts are about 300-odd per side.
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  #3  
Old December 25th, 2012, 11:39 AM
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I was thinking these:

http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/B...ducts/070-0001

The T posts and 2nd row bulkhead (can't think of another way to describe it) seem to be new. It's the sides where the rubber pieces were that are beyond nasty. I'm assuming once I drill those out it will be rusty there and then I'll be grinding, skim coating bondo and painting. So, was thinking replace those with galvanized and be done with it. I have sliders so I don't need to attach the exterior sills.

Do these just bolt in or do I need to weld?
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  #4  
Old December 25th, 2012, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aosias View Post
I was thinking these:

http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/B...ducts/070-0001

The T posts and 2nd row bulkhead (can't think of another way to describe it) seem to be new. It's the sides where the rubber pieces were that are beyond nasty. I'm assuming once I drill those out it will be rusty there and then I'll be grinding, skim coating bondo and painting. So, was thinking replace those with galvanized and be done with it. I have sliders so I don't need to attach the exterior sills.

Do these just bolt in or do I need to weld?
The YRM are weld-in replacements. A good solution for the sills if your are rusted out around the thresh - not as good if your B pillar is part of the problem.

I have an extra set in stock for a 130 Double Cab and you could easily modify to fit a 90 by drilling new mounting holes at the rear and cutting to size.

Brian
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Old December 25th, 2012, 01:31 PM
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Drill out the spot welds and remove the outer metal and see what the issue is first.
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Old December 25th, 2012, 01:42 PM
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I would assume this is for her 5 door 110 not a 90

Agree with Barry on drilling out the spot welds and see how it looks.
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  #7  
Old December 26th, 2012, 09:49 AM
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I like shiny. In most everything.

I'll drill and post photos of the rust.
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  #8  
Old December 26th, 2012, 11:05 AM
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Depending on how long they have been rusting, they may still be ok once you remove that stupid peice of double metal holding the seal.
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  #9  
Old August 6th, 2013, 04:27 PM
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Alex, courious if you ever pulled the trigger either way?

Bill, if you're going to NOVA HH next week I'll bring a 110 to show you what I'm trying to work with.

Clay
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  #10  
Old August 6th, 2013, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aosias View Post
I was thinking these:

http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/B...ducts/070-0001

The T posts and 2nd row bulkhead (can't think of another way to describe it) seem to be new. It's the sides where the rubber pieces were that are beyond nasty. I'm assuming once I drill those out it will be rusty there and then I'll be grinding, skim coating bondo and painting. So, was thinking replace those with galvanized and be done with it. I have sliders so I don't need to attach the exterior sills.

Do these just bolt in or do I need to weld?
I have a set of the yrm's here and just need to weld in the b pillars. Post a picture of what you are dealing with Alex
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  #11  
Old September 1st, 2013, 10:16 PM
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Can't talk a out 110/109 but the 90 sills bolted straight up.
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  #12  
Old September 2nd, 2013, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
Can't talk a out 110/109 but the 90 sills bolted straight up.
Don't happen to have pre and post pics laying around do you?
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