YRM door channel replacements - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 15th, 2013, 11:23 AM
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YRM door channel replacements

Has anyone used the YRM replacement door channels?

I keep burning through the material when trying to join 2 pieces together. I've tried using both 6012 and 6013 rods with the amps turned way down. It either burns through when striking an arch or 1/2 way though my bead.

Has anyone stick welded these together and if so what rods/amps are you using? I can go TIG but i'm way more proficient at stick.

Thanks
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  #2  
Old December 15th, 2013, 12:07 PM
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Electrode negative will be better for thin metal like this. Check your setup. Also (obviously?) you need thinner rods for thin metal like this, or by the time your rod is up to temp, the puddle will have blown through..

1/16" 6013, 30 amps, electrode negative. start there.

Get some scrap metal of the same thickness to practice on! (18/20 ga)


I havent yet began tackling my doors/bulkhead but I will be looking for a MIG or using TIG for this thin sheetmetal. Perhaps practice a bit with your TIG setup, you will probably have better overall results.
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Old December 15th, 2013, 12:24 PM
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Thanks. I'm using 5/64" rods. I'll try electrode neg and 1/16" rods.
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Old December 15th, 2013, 01:12 PM
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Do you know how to gas weld?

I've been doing it for a few months now and I like the out come.

You'll need to get the aviation torch body with a 0 or 00 torch tip.
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Old December 15th, 2013, 01:24 PM
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Do you know how to gas weld?

I've been doing it for a few months now and I like the out come.

You'll need to get the aviation torch body with a 0 or 00 torch tip.
I've done some tig but I need to work on my cups. I'll go that route if 1/16 and reverse polarity doesn't work.
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Old December 15th, 2013, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post

I've done some tig but I need to work on my cups. I'll go that route if 1/16 and reverse polarity doesn't work.
I'm no expert...
But I've been practicing on 18 Gauge sheet metal and I like gas welding.

I dont don't remember the rod size. I can get that tomorrow night. I'll be in the shop where I'm getting my welding time.
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  #7  
Old December 15th, 2013, 07:43 PM
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I have used the stock with a mig but not stick welder. I use my lincoln stick welder on thicker stock where I want deeper penetration. Sheet metal= mig/tig welders
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Old December 15th, 2013, 10:58 PM
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I would have thought MIG would work well - and spot weld in several places.

How much material did they send? These door repair sections never seem to include the length of material that is included.

I'm curious how you make out - good luck!
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Old December 23rd, 2013, 06:59 PM
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Old January 2nd, 2014, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by RobTheGob View Post
How much material did they send? These door repair sections never seem to include the length of material that is included.
Is the amount of material they send for "one door" - enough to fully repair one door? I was thinking about buying three orders to do my two front doors. And perhaps two to do my SW rear door.

After seeing your original post - I spent some time practicing multiple tack welds (with GMAW) on very thin material and was happy with the results.

How easy was it to pull the door skin off? I should put an order in repair sections - might be a good spring project.
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Old January 2nd, 2014, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobTheGob View Post

Is the amount of material they send for "one door" - enough to fully repair one door? I was thinking about buying three orders to do my two front doors. And perhaps two to do my SW rear door.

After seeing your original post - I spent some time practicing multiple tack welds (with GMAW) on very thin material and was happy with the results.

How easy was it to pull the door skin off? I should put an order in repair sections - might be a good spring project.
1 kit was enough to do the bottom and 1/2+ up both sides.

Surprisingly the skin removal was pretty easy.
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