You can change a front fender skin out with the rollcage in place right? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 15th, 2011, 08:44 PM
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Question You can change a front fender skin out with the rollcage in place right?

I want to replace my right passenger side wing skin because the old one has some dents on it from the PO. I think I saw a pic on ECR with a truck that had the wing skin removed only not the cage or any other panel. I'm assuming you just take off the flares and access the bolts via long extensions and elbow joints to your ratchet? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.


Neil
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  #2  
Old June 15th, 2011, 09:03 PM
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If it is your soft top just take a frame off as it is easy.
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  #3  
Old June 15th, 2011, 09:03 PM
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Chris Murphy
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Hi, Neil-

Assuming that you can loosen the right side front cage support and leave the cage in place without it getting hung up due to corrosion, etc, it should be possible.

As I recall from replacing my wing sides several years ago on one of my trucks, the hardware between top and side are hard to get to, but accessible with little hands and/or the right tools. (Expect some of the bolts to shear, however, if corrosion is present. (No big deal, and sometimes easier to remove and replace with new. I remember one or two that were easier to tighten and shear than to try and get them apart for reuse.)

Then, the rear of the panel has a 90-degree lip that is secured against the bulkhead behind the cage front support bracket. (The top of this bracket is the rounded rectangle that the exposed cage front bolts down to.) The side panel bolt holes that the bracket goes through are slotted to allow for it to slide out and/or be adjusted as I remember, with one or two holes. Most of the side lip-to-bulkhead hardware can be loosened and left in place, hopefully. I'd also recommend loosening the four cage front to bracket bolts through the wing top to allow for a little more wiggle room as you're removing the side panel.

Make any sense? I'll try and find a picture and scan it in for posting. For what it's worth, I had my cage off for recoating when I screwed around with this, but I remember what it looked like when I took it all apart.

Murph
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  #4  
Old June 15th, 2011, 09:17 PM
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I looked through the parts manual for a good diagram, but none show it very well. The following, however may help my description make more sense.

From someone's Ebay ad, the back side of a side panel. (Look a the back edge that goes toward the bulkhead.)

Also, a webpage I remembered and rediscovered with a Google search. The page author was installing a NAS-ish cage on his Euro 90, but his photos are great and show how the cage supports and wings are bolted on.

http://www.roverworld.com/rollbar_english2.htm
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  #5  
Old June 15th, 2011, 09:28 PM
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X2 on what Murph said.

I am becoming an expert on replacing wings and skins *LOL*

the only hurdle to overcome is if your captive nuts on top ( where the 3 pieces tie together -inner fender, wing top and skin ) are rusted or hurt , I had one where the dent was in that area and a MoFo to remove.

Also the area of the front panel will represent a challenge with the wing mounted, and when you add all the cursing , bleeding knuckles etc, removing the whole wing is not that bad of an idea
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Old June 15th, 2011, 09:45 PM
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X2 on what Gustavo said!

In the front as he mentioned, you'll probably want to remove as much of the headlight, bowl, light spat, signals stuff, etc. in order to access the three-piece corner he talked about. Obviously the fender eyebrow, liner, etc need to get pulled as well to get behind the top-to-side seam and undo the bolts. (And it will still be a PIA, but do-able.)

A mini pair of vice-grips, especially some with a needle nose is helpful for grabbing the back side of bolt heads/nuts. If used, however, make sure that they are not pushing against the aluminum skin before clamping them closed or turning, or you may end up with nice dents outward in the aluminum.

Another tac you may consider is if your side panel is really hosed up anyway and that's why you're removing it, you could carefully cut much of it away to allow easier/closer access to seams with a good pair of tin snips or pneumatic or electric nibbler. (Just leave an inch or two of the side panel to the seams.) Putting it back together is a lot easier than taking it apart.
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  #7  
Old June 16th, 2011, 08:37 AM
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If you are replacing the panel, it's sacrificial. Cut it out, you'll thank yourself when you don't have to wrangle corroded fasteners with your fingertips.
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  #8  
Old June 16th, 2011, 11:29 AM
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you can more of a pain than its worth its 10 torx then it is off.

once its off you can give it a spray with some black satin

make sure you cover the bonnet with a blanet to protect it when you remove it.

I have pulled my a pillar at least 10x and its no more than a half hour.
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  #9  
Old June 16th, 2011, 12:35 PM
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Thanks guys I think I will just cut it up, thats a great idea since I'm just going to trash it anyway. My hands are kinda big so I'm kinda worried about accessing the bolts through the inner fender and the outskin. I was trying to avoid taking off the cage but it might not be so bad either. Barry it is a softtop but it has a fiberglass roof so its harder to access the upper cage bolts.
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  #10  
Old March 21st, 2013, 08:00 PM
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Yes

I was in same boat as you. Did not want to take hardtop off to get to two bolts. Here are some pics.

11 mm small wrench
Socket with 2 extensions and swivel head.

Left hand side is easier than right. Right hand side you have to take wing top heater vent out.
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  #11  
Old March 21st, 2013, 08:42 PM
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Never mind.
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