York 210 OBA install 200tdi - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 5th, 2012, 02:54 PM
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York 210 OBA install 200tdi

I have a York 210 on the way for install on my 200tdi and I was hoping that someone with experience doing this could help answer my questions:

1. I plan to homebrew a bracket for the pump.
2. What holes need to be drilled on the 200tdi to properly affix the pump bracket? I've looked at Piekas's awesome 200tdi AC writeup (http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...510#post293510) but it's not clear to me which holes are drilled where.
3. Do I need parts 614718 (AC Pulley) and 85842 (AC Timing Case Pulley Mount) or can I just use an alternator-style tensioner and connect the York compressor pulley directly to the crankshaft pulley?

I've looked through Red90's prolific writings on the topic but still there are gaps in my knowledge, unfortunately

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
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  #2  
Old March 6th, 2012, 11:17 AM
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Hmm...I found an old post by Red90 on LR4x4 on the subject:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=57767

It looks like one actually drills vertically into the timing case. The link above shows basically that the plate must be mounted on the "flat area" located on the upper left of the timing case cover.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=32907

So i guess one approach is to drill and tap directly into the timing case cover. The other would be to use some sort of angle bracket and use the two timing case bolts to hold the front of the bracket onto the engine.

Drilling and tapping two rear holes seems unavoidable.
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  #3  
Old March 6th, 2012, 05:12 PM
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Pierre Jourda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Hmm...I found an old post by Red90 on LR4x4 on the subject:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=57767

It looks like one actually drills vertically into the timing case. The link above shows basically that the plate must be mounted on the "flat area" located on the upper left of the timing case cover.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=32907

So i guess one approach is to drill and tap directly into the timing case cover. The other would be to use some sort of angle bracket and use the two timing case bolts to hold the front of the bracket onto the engine.

Drilling and tapping two rear holes seems unavoidable.

Two of the holes drilled will actually open up into the timing case, while two other holes will open up outside of the timing case. For the ones that go into it, just go very slowly so as not to do damage the belt (unless you plan on removing the whole thing before drilling). As far as the bracket approach, my opinion is the existing bolts are too small to handle that kind of weight/stress.
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  #4  
Old March 6th, 2012, 05:23 PM
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Thanks pierre!
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  #5  
Old March 6th, 2012, 05:26 PM
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Sorry to hijack, but does anyone know the difference in output between the A/C compressor from a NAS D90- and the york? I have been meaning to use my A/C compressor for onboard air for years.
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  #6  
Old March 6th, 2012, 06:51 PM
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Sounds like you should have planned this York addition about 3 months ago when you were replacing the timing chain!
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  #7  
Old March 6th, 2012, 06:52 PM
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To my limited knowledge, the York is an upright piston type pump and the Sanden is a horizontal swash plate type.
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  #8  
Old March 6th, 2012, 06:52 PM
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Sorry, to poke but I mainly just wanted to put two pictures of Lavender in another thread!
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  #9  
Old March 6th, 2012, 08:47 PM
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Jeff, I wish I had your foresight! But the more I learn about wheeling it seems the deeper I get....

Charles, if your compressor is a Sanden then performance is comparable to the york. Which is to say blazing - something like 4cfm@90psi. The only real difference between the Sanden and the York is the Sanden needs oil lubricated air - you are supposed to plumb an oiler before the intake and condense out the lubricating oil before it enters the storage tank. The York is more like a typical shop compressor with twin reciprocating cylinders and an oil-filled crankcase.
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  #10  
Old March 6th, 2012, 08:50 PM
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Yup, I'm aware of the oiling issue. Cool. Maybe you'll inspire me to do it. Winch first. Well, winch 234th, but next in the "want to install" list.
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  #11  
Old March 6th, 2012, 10:06 PM
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Does Ed actually drive his truck? I think he wheeled the Honda more than the D-90.

<just jealous of this OBA talk>
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  #12  
Old March 6th, 2012, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firemanshort View Post
Does Ed actually drive his truck? I think he wheeled the Honda more than the D-90.

<just jealous of this OBA talk>
Damn straight! Ed in action at Rausch:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1092670...CKzBuvLFk5XwTQ

------ Follow up post added March 6th, 2012 10:19 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Jeff, I wish I had your foresight! But the more I learn about wheeling it seems the deeper I get....
Dude....also don't forget you did fine without all the toys in a stock D! Just save your damn money for some proper rubber and spare the accessories. (says the guy who's truck was in parts for the Rausch weekend ).
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  #13  
Old March 7th, 2012, 08:24 AM
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I must admit this is a bit of a knee jerk reaction. You've gone from running clown tires and a crap spare to super swampers, and OBA. Just get some decent tires (and spare) and wheel with friends and you'll be fine.

But I'm all for OBA, and I think you should have put in a welder when you needed an alternator to put out a tach signal. It's not too late to change it though!

Then consider air bags. That sounds like a fun mod too. We can write some software to make it dance to the music you are playing. Wait, you'll need a radio first.... I'll come up with more ideas if needed - just yell.
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  #14  
Old March 7th, 2012, 08:30 AM
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Don't listen to them, Ed...you keep modifying until your hearts content (as long as your truck remains driveable at all times so you don't miss any wheeling opportunities!)
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  #15  
Old March 7th, 2012, 09:55 AM
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Speaking of airbags, has anyone seen the airbag jacks that people make from 2ply bags? I'm not talking about the janky orange exhaust-filled bags. I'm talking about the suspension bags that people use on lowriders and trucks.

The videos on youtube are pretty impressive. Really the only things that you need to fabricate are a sturdy base, a 3-way air valve, and a support for the top of the bag. With application of air, the vehicle is lifted in the air in seconds.

Seems like an interesting alternative to a hydraulic bottle jack for the trail, especially for those with OBA or Power Tanks.
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Old March 7th, 2012, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
I'm not talking about the janky orange exhaust-filled bags.
Actually that exhaust "X-Jack" is supposedly pretty decent...hi-lifts are so damn dangerous it does seem like not a bad option:
http://www.amazon.com/ARB-72X10US-Re...1132808&sr=1-1
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  #17  
Old March 7th, 2012, 10:23 AM
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Good point, Jason

I do agree about the hi-lift. I guess I'm starting to reconsider their usefulness for changing tires, since each time one was used (I think you were the last one!) on my truck, a bottle jack ended up saving the day instead.
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  #18  
Old March 7th, 2012, 11:20 AM
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Ya high lifts are not for changing tires or anything else that requires crawling underneath. They are for recovery; that is, getting you out of a stuck. Use them to lift, pull or clamp. That's it. They are actually for farmers, repurposed for use for off road vehicles.

As for air bags, Goodyear makes a HUGE assortment of suspension air bags all with handy schraeder valves. Look on fleaBay for used bags from a Pete or something. Quick way to jack up an axle for sure.
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  #19  
Old March 7th, 2012, 12:44 PM
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Looks interesting Bill! An experiment for another day...

Here's an informative link on York Compressors as OBA.

http://www.gmtruckhq.com/bagginit/yo...ation-621.html

Apparently the stock compressor configuration is to oil inline, just like a Sanden.

http://www.rockcrawler.com/techrepor..._mod/index.asp

For use as on-board air, one has to block off the oil hole as described in the "easy way" section. This is achieved by blocking a small hole in the compressor with a sheet metal screw. One must also vent the crankcase by drilling a hole in the appropriate place, then attaching an air cleaner fitting.

If one does not do this, apparently crankcase oil is sucked into the intake valve, lubricates the pistons, and is pushed into the output, which is something you do not really want.
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  #20  
Old March 7th, 2012, 05:02 PM
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Yes, you drill and tap where the AC bracket would mount which is the center of the for flat areas as discussed above. Mine was a quick ad easy install. One thing to watch is the belt is long and does rub a bit on the lower rad hose. I've put a shield over the hose to keep it safe. I think the stock AC uses an idler that mounts from the pump timing cover.

Mine's been there for a lot of years and does not use any oil. I setup a dual hose as it outputs more than one tire valve can take. Filling two at once is as fast as filling one.

Some more photos here: http://www.red90.ca/photos/land-rovers/York/
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