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  #41  
Old March 12th, 2012, 09:47 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Don't mind me - i think I get it now. I still think it's a bad idea to put it on the pump

Consider making a temporary mount out of thinner material as a first run and once everything is verified then make a permanent one.
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  #42  
Old March 13th, 2012, 12:02 AM
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I copied Red's bracket for my 210 and it mounted up very well. The 2.5 na is very similar to the 200 from the looks and should be the same. Mine had the holes already in place as I believe that is where they had the 24 volt generator when it was a MOD truck.

The only issue I have so far is the belt has a lot of wave in it at idle but flattens out once you bring up the rpm's. I PM'd John (Reds) on this and he has the same issue but hasn't had a problem in the multi years that he's had it installed. He also mentioned that he put some protection on the lower radiator hose as it's very close to the belt . I'm looking at doing the same thing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
I have a York 210 on the way for install on my 200tdi and I was hoping that someone with experience doing this could help answer my questions:

1. I plan to homebrew a bracket for the pump.
2. What holes need to be drilled on the 200tdi to properly affix the pump bracket? I've looked at Piekas's awesome 200tdi AC writeup (http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...510#post293510) but it's not clear to me which holes are drilled where.
3. Do I need parts 614718 (AC Pulley) and 85842 (AC Timing Case Pulley Mount) or can I just use an alternator-style tensioner and connect the York compressor pulley directly to the crankshaft pulley?

I've looked through Red90's prolific writings on the topic but still there are gaps in my knowledge, unfortunately

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
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  #43  
Old March 13th, 2012, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baldewin View Post
The 2.5 na is very similar to the 200 from the looks and should be the same..
It is exactly the same. I had mine on a 2.5 NA and moved it to the 200TDI with no changes.
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  #44  
Old March 16th, 2012, 11:12 AM
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I found a cheaper place for york flange fittings:

http://www.virtual-ac.com/MFGProduct...ySubmit=Search

$14 each.
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  #45  
Old March 16th, 2012, 05:27 PM
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Omega fitting cross-reference.

Tons of these. Using omega distributors or a cross-reference should allow cheaper sourcing.

http://home.omega-usa.com/HDCatalog/#?page=294
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  #46  
Old March 31st, 2012, 09:04 PM
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Welded up the brackets, tensioner, and painted
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  #47  
Old March 31st, 2012, 09:14 PM
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Charles Galpin
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That's pretty! Is the only thing keeping the tension that single bolt between the two tabs? I'm skeptical that it will hold up. Have you seen the tensioner on the 94 NAS D90 alternator for example? It's got a threaded adjustment and bunch of bolts to hold it.

I'm looking forward to seeing this in action!
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  #48  
Old March 31st, 2012, 09:18 PM
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I share Galpin's concern here...I think you need to go back to the heim joint turnbuckle idea.
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  #49  
Old March 31st, 2012, 10:05 PM
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Good points, gents - thank you. The whole assembly mounted on the engine is very heavy. I would guess that the compressor itself is 13 lbs or so and the bracket is another 10. The brackets are boxed and gusseted to prevent warping/bending.

I used that tensioner design as a prototyping effort. The 2 little bars are 1/4" thick steel and held together with grade 8 bolts. I believe they will hold for testing. In truth, there are a few variables that i don't know about yet until the whole thing is operating properly. One is the correct position of the compressor at the correct belt tension. Another is the correct belt length. I can guarantee you it is not 54.5" as I originally thought!

A heavy-duty tensioner isn't cheap (Jeff made a great suggestion of using a spherical joint turnbuckle, which I believe is fantastic - but the parts from mcmaster including the jam nuts comes to almost $50) and a traditional screw/nut arrangement is a great idea but much easier to fabricate once the right numbers are known.

The only problem with projects like these is the unknown. I can see why building from plans is so much easier.

Also, I can see why the original 200tdi AC used a tensioner pulley. Because the total amount of adjustment is under 3" using the tilt tensioner and the total length of the belt is over 54", the amount of tension adjustment available is something like 5% or less.
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  #50  
Old March 31st, 2012, 10:18 PM
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Sitting pretty. By the way, having the compressor mounted vertically is the wrong position as it will deeply foul the coolant pipe.

The correct position will be tilted at an angle to vertical.

Also, at the "vertical" position, the bonnet prop will foul on the compressor.
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  #51  
Old April 1st, 2012, 03:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Damn straight! Ed in action at Rausch:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1092670...CKzBuvLFk5XwTQ

------ Follow up post added March 6th, 2012 10:19 PM ------



Dude....also don't forget you did fine without all the toys in a stock D! Just save your damn money for some proper rubber and spare the accessories. (says the guy who's truck was in parts for the Rausch weekend ).
Keep it light, get some decent rubber on some steel wheels, 235/85 or 7.50 16's are what I used to run, save the good looking alloys for the road with some road tyres.
My 2p worth.
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  #52  
Old April 1st, 2012, 11:01 AM
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Why not use a "normal" slotted bar like most alternators?
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  #53  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 11:38 AM
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I wanted to keep the side closest to the front of the engine free of "stuff", though will probably end up using a tensioner like yours if the other options don't work.
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  #54  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover View Post
Keep it light, get some decent rubber on some steel wheels, 235/85 or 7.50 16's are what I used to run, save the good looking alloys for the road with some road tyres.
My 2p worth.
Thanks Mike....once I'm done with the OBA project, I'll dig around again for good deals on tires. I've been discussing tires with folks already and have narrowed it down.

Although the alloys will be used for off-road as well...they're shiny, but hardly in good enough shape to warrant saving
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  #55  
Old April 2nd, 2012, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Although the alloys will be used for off-road as well...they're shiny, but hardly in good enough shape to warrant saving
Steel wheels can be hammered into shape if the need arises to get you home, alloys can't

Project's looking good though.

I always used to take great pleasure in going further with the least in the way of goodies on the truck - Tirfor hand winch as a last resort. Anyone who has used one will understand
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  #56  
Old April 25th, 2012, 10:23 PM
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OK, the compressor is up and running. Lines are longer than they need to be and will be cut down. I bolted the plugin manifold to the rear quarter.

Many thanks to you all for your feedback/info, Charles for playing devil's advocate and Jeff for some parts.

1/8" braided stainless teflon leader hose (12") to 3/"8NPT check valve to front manifold. Front manifold contains 150psi-off, 120psi-on cutoff switch (which will be connected to a relay...currently actuated via +12V manually for testing.)

3/8" reinforced hose to rear tank. Rear tank is 3 gallon stainless. Rear tank contains a 180psi safety valve and bottom drain valve. Rear tank is bolted to a 1/4" thick 6061-T6 aluminum bashguard.

Rear tank is then connected to the rear air manifold, which houses a 300psi pressure gauge and a universal coupler output.

Initial testing shows 45 seconds to go from completely empty to 150psi at 850rpm idle.

Still left to do:

1. Complete relay connection to clutch solenoid.
2. Complete connector for +12V and Dash-mounted OBA Carling switch.
3. Cut down orange tube to proper lengths.
4. Replace 1/8" leader hose with 3/8" leader hose
5. Fix small air leaks
6. Add the 1/2" NPT air filter to the front manifold and connect directly to input of compressor.

One weird problem:

The belt flaps around like a wet noodle when the clutch is activated. The tension seems correct when the clutch is not activated. Not sure what anyone has done to solve this?

I think what would help is not necessarily a tensioner but just some kind of guide pulley to apply gentle pressure to the belt during operation. If I gently place a smooth metal object against the belt, it stops flapping like a wet noodle. It requires very little pressure to stop the flapping.

Other Observations:

The universal air coupler releases a crazy amount of air on release. Much more than the typical quick coupler. It's loud and maybe even slightly dangerous.

Flexeel's reinforced polyurethane 20' 1/4" coilhose is insufficient to reach the left front tire, which is terribly frustrating. It is also incredibly restrictive and probably useless for anything but filling up tires.

Having OBA is awesome. I just cleaned out the inside of my truck with a blowgun. With the truck idling, the supply of air is limitless. With the york, it recharges very, very quickly.

I would love to find a 6 or 10 gallon tank that can fit under the truck.
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  #57  
Old April 26th, 2012, 03:05 AM
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Very cool
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  #58  
Old April 26th, 2012, 06:36 AM
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You must have a lot of soccer balls
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  #59  
Old April 26th, 2012, 07:50 AM
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Awesome. I'd want to feel the belt tension and see it in action but my gut tells me the flap has to be either tension or alignment (or a combination). Put some high speed hours on it (obviously without the clutch engaged) and see if you are getting premature belt wear.

I fear the rear gauge/coupler needs some sort of guard and cover. Maybe the noise is louder and stronger because of it's orientation and the tub reflecting the air and noise. If it pointed away from the body it would have 360 degrees of open space around it for the air to go on release.

Anyway nicely done. Will we be testing this the weekend after next? You are almost motivating me to make a push to get my winch installed.
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  #60  
Old April 26th, 2012, 09:14 AM
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Agree with Charles on the cover on the coupler...you can find the rubber caps at several places locally like Tipco or Coliflower (Parker) so the whole thing doesn't fill up with mud and water. Also, just curious but what is reasoning for the gauge there? Do you have a regulator in line with that setup?

Separate note, if you are changing the leader hose to 3/8" are you also planning to make new flange fittings as well?
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