Yet another Overheating Post - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 6th, 2007, 11:21 AM
Epsom_D2
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Sean-Paul Ferrera
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Yet another Overheating Post

Before I get started I have searched and I've seen all kinds of answers but none of the problems mimic mine exactly.

I have a 94 with about 73k on the clock. When driving in town the temp needle stays dead center. When the A/C is on the gauge comes up a little bit but it blows ice cold and I don't have any problems. If I stop at a long light the needle will rise and it can be brought back down by picking up the RPMs just a little bit, i.e. from idle speed to 1100rpm. If I leave it idle it will go all the way to the red.

On the highway the needle will creep up and ride higher than dead center but it doesn't run into the red. When I get off the highway and go back to stop and go traffic where RPMs vary the needle comes back to the normal range. The A/C makes things a little worse and blows cool but not icy cold when on the highway at higher than normal temps. This seems strange to me as with the increased airflow on the highway the temperature should be lower not higher.

I do not know the last time the coolant was changed so I was planning on taking care of that asap but as the symptoms are a little strange I figured that probably isn't the whole problem.

The aux A/C fan also functions but doesn't appear to spin as rapidly as I would expect. Should it be similar in function to the one on my DII or is it just a slow fan from the factory.

I live in FL so 90 deg + is the norm and running without A/C is a no no.

Any help or advice is appreciated,
S-P
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  #2  
Old June 6th, 2007, 11:44 AM
diffender
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Gary Grace
1995 D-90
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overheating

Sounds like you might want to start by replaceing your thermastat. Then burp the system real good and top off your coolant.
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  #3  
Old June 6th, 2007, 12:20 PM
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Daniel Brown
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good fix is the thermostat. Kind of a pain to get to on my 95 but worth it. Go out and get a lower temp one and it will allow water flow at a cooler level helping cool the engine. I live in Savannah and did this right before the weather broke and it has help out a ton.
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  #4  
Old June 6th, 2007, 02:05 PM
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Jim C.
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If you truck has seen lots of mud, you might want to check the radiator fins behind the AC condenser. I found that mine were quite blocked a few summers ago.

jC

P.S. might also want to check the clutch on the fan?
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  #5  
Old June 6th, 2007, 02:09 PM
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lou manfredo
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I think Jim is spot on with the fan clutch - I had the same exact problem with my first D90- I replaced the headgaskets, forgot to check the fan clutch, turned out it was the fan clutch - expensive way to learn the lesson.

- Lou
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  #6  
Old June 6th, 2007, 04:44 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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The easy way to check it is to gently stick a piece of a pizza box or some rolled up newspaper in. Don't shove them in or you could break off a blade if the clutch is good. If its good it should knock the paper/cardboard away, if it is bad it will stop the fan. Also, I highly recommend a good flush of the system and refilling with Genuine BMW Blue coolant. It is a little pricey, but its the best stuff I have found and seems to keep the cars running consistently cooler. I have it in all mine. It is the same stuff LR sells for the 4.4 RR but if the prices haven't changed, it is a lot cheaper to buy from a BMW dealer than a LR one...go figure!
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  #7  
Old June 6th, 2007, 05:04 PM
Epsom_D2
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Sean-Paul Ferrera
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys. As soon as the rain stops down here I'll be flushing the cooling system, changing the tstat, cleaning the fins, and checking the fan clutch.

I'm just glad to hear that nobody thinks it is something more serious i.e. head gasket, etc.

S-P
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  #8  
Old June 10th, 2007, 12:15 PM
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Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
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Just to echo some of the sentiments and clarify how to check the low lying fruit.

1. When the engine is cold, spin the engine fan by hand to get a feel for it. It should spin freely. Then run her until she is hot and shut it off. Spin the fan again. There should be significant resistance. If not, the clutch is bad.

2. Clean the radiator by praying water through it in both directions. Do it several times as there will always be far more dirt in it than you'd imagine.

Given that she runs hot on the highway my guess is your radiator is dirty (or clogged internally) if the clutch fan is good. But do a coolant change and thermostat replacement before going down that road.

hth
charles
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  #9  
Old June 10th, 2007, 02:33 PM
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Hans Haase
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May also be air in the system somewhere, or possibly a loose belt. Since it's hot on the highway, but ok at around idle, I'm thinking the fan clutch should be fine. Clogged radiator is also a possibility, as is a water pump.

-Hans
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  #10  
Old June 11th, 2007, 07:06 AM
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John Robison
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It sounds to me like a clogged radiator, possibly dirt clogged fins on the radiator and ac condensor, possibly a bad clutch too, a bad electric fan or wiring (it should be fast, not slow) and a general need for coolant flush/new t-stat when you do the radiator.

I think your symptoms sound unique because you have a multiplicity of problems
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  #11  
Old June 11th, 2007, 08:32 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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I have the exact same symptoms on my 90. Doesn't overheat idling on the trail in Moab during June and July but sky rockets to the red on the highway in termperatures as low as 30. I've changed my radiator, water pump, thermostat, sender, bled the system 3 times, head gasket and all associated hoses and have come to the conclusion that it has to be my gauge. It goes near the red quickly on the highway but never gets past it or even really on it. As soon as I pop the hood on the highway, 9 out of 10 times i can watch the gauge drop. I've decided to stop caring about it and start again when I see steam from under the hood.
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  #12  
Old June 11th, 2007, 08:41 AM
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Charles Galpin
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sflash868 I don't recommend that approach. If the guage drops when you lift the hood, you are releasing heat. For relatively cheap, you can get a laser heat gun and verify the temps.

http://www.arizonatools.com/tools/te...FQVpFQodFn9ntg

hth
charles
p.s. Land Rovers are by far the best looking 4x4 on jackstands too
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  #13  
Old June 14th, 2007, 10:07 PM
Epsom_D2
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Sean-Paul Ferrera
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robisonservice
It sounds to me like a clogged radiator, possibly dirt clogged fins on the radiator and ac condensor, possibly a bad clutch too, a bad electric fan or wiring (it should be fast, not slow) and a general need for coolant flush/new t-stat when you do the radiator.

I think your symptoms sound unique because you have a multiplicity of problems
Fan clutch appears to be fine after checking as advised. This part was changed not 6 months ago by the previous owner and doesn't look like it even got dirty till I drove it some 1200 miles home to FL. The fins are clear so the next steps are a full flush and tstat change and I noticed that the a/c fan was running quite slow so I figure that's probably a significant part of the problem. Probably bad wiring or motor as the bearings seem to be pretty quiet.

Thanks again,
S-P
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  #14  
Old June 14th, 2007, 10:48 PM
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Neil Flanagan
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I'm surprised nobody has suggested the lowly $25 "Engine Coolant Thermistor". I've had two episodes of "slight" overheating in two different vehicles that were remedied by replacing the ECT. From my experience, this sensor does not catastrophically fail, but each time it has failed, it followed the same progression. Overheating, random stalling, and finally Code 14(Coolant Thermistor). The overheating lasted for months as I replaced the entire cooling system to no avail. Then began the random stalling. That lasted a couple weeks before it pulled a Code 14. Replaced the ECT and all symptoms disappeared. Happened once again in another truck only progressively faster. Again replaced the ECT, this time before pulling a 14 and systematically replacing the entire cooling system, and once again all symptoms disappeared. I'd start with the ECT...
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  #15  
Old June 15th, 2007, 07:00 AM
Epsom_D2
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Sean-Paul Ferrera
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Anyone know what model aftermarket electric fan fits nicely in place of the stock electric A/C fan?
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  #16  
Old June 16th, 2007, 09:04 AM
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Devin W
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Devin Walton
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Something affordable that will tell you if you have a big problem is get the coolant tested to see if it has been contaminated by exhaust gases. I had it done at Midas for $30 or so. Unfortunately, the news I got was what I was hoping NOT to hear, but it's cheaper and quicker than replacing a bunch of other components in an effort to narrow things down if the problem is with the head gasket or block.
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  #17  
Old June 16th, 2007, 07:07 PM
n2deep
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Jay W. Robertson
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It is important that you STOP driving your LandRover NOW!!!! What has happened is you have lost the ground. Now for the bad new's, when you lose the ground on your LR the current will find the path of least resistance. The current will MAGNETIZE the crank shaft. You can check if I'm right by simple using a compass. With the engine off, take a compass and hold it next to the crank pully. I found this a two person job. It is easier for one to lay on the ground and the second with a flashlight to watch the compass. You need to hold it level and slowly move toward's the crankshaft pully. Also, by installing a grounding strap from the engine to the body & frame, you will give the electrical current a path to flow. You now think I'm crazy. This has happened to my 1997 D90. After pulling my hair out trying to chase Gremlin's in my D90, I called a friend in to help. He nailed it right away.
Once the crank has been magnetize, it must be de-magnetized. This is a bad thing if you don't. Now the crank WILL pickup any metal partical's in the oil. This will lead to a quik and terrible death of your LR. We are working on a way to de-magnetize the crank asap. I will post it then. If anyone has any question's or need's more info on how this could have manetize the crank please email me at rob1029@cox.net , I will try to answer them as fast as I can and as complete as I can. Thanks, Jay W. Robertson
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  #18  
Old June 16th, 2007, 09:49 PM
Epsom_D2
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Sean-Paul Ferrera
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Not so sure this post applies here. Please explain this one further.
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  #19  
Old June 16th, 2007, 10:55 PM
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Owen Jones
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devin W
Something affordable that will tell you if you have a big problem is get the coolant tested to see if it has been contaminated by exhaust gases. I had it done at Midas for $30 or so. Unfortunately, the news I got was what I was hoping NOT to hear, but it's cheaper and quicker than replacing a bunch of other components in an effort to narrow things down if the problem is with the head gasket or block.
Good suggestion. Usually when the head gasket is blown the overflow vent burps coolant due to the exhaust gases being pumped into the jacket. Often this is mistaken for overheating/boiling as the cause but usually that doesnt result in high fluid loss. The hot gasses will cause overheating though.

Take the truck out cold and flog it up a hill. If it pukes fluid - its probably a blown gasket. The Midas suggestion will confirm it.
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  #20  
Old June 17th, 2007, 12:50 PM
Epsom_D2
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Sean-Paul Ferrera
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I'll definitely have it tested just to be sure. After doing a tstat change and full fluid flush it appears to be holding steady at dead center.

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions.
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