yet-a-nother cooling question - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 27th, 2006, 02:43 AM
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yet-a-nother cooling question

problem-the 90 will not cool below 200 once it gets warmed up. fans kick on at about 210 degreees and cool quickly down to 200 but thats it-it runs at 200 untill i shut the engine off then fans cool it down to about 180 then shut off(have not driven long than 20-25 minutes at a time and usally in the evening)some info-did the 4.6 swap, 190 dgree thermostat, vw temp switch in thermostat housing, system is pressurizing,
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  #2  
Old June 27th, 2006, 07:37 AM
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You may as well have been describing my vehicle, Matt. Same engine, same temp sensor, and it performs exactly as you described. To tell you the truth, I didn't know that the 200-210 operating range was unsafe or even out of the ordinary. With the old factory temp gauge I really didn't know what temp I was running, so I don't know if its running hotter now or not.

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Old June 27th, 2006, 04:02 PM
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I think 200-210 is fine. I've been as high as 235 with the 5.0 and not had any damage.

PS: I've been driving my son's LWB for the last few weeks, and I notice the engine fan works damn hard --harder than in the 110 -- to keep that 4.2 cool. If I had an analog gauge I bet it'd be reading right in the 200 - 210 range.

Doug W.
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Old June 27th, 2006, 05:36 PM
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Mine, with an Autometer gauge, tends to run in the 165-180 degree range at idle and on shorter drives. In the summer, on longer trips and particularly hot days, it hits around 195 and stays there except when I idle for extended periods and it gradually drops.

I'm also running the 210 flex-a-lites, and since the temp switch burned out they are always on. I don't know what temp the factory thermal clutch engages at.

-Hans
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Old June 27th, 2006, 06:03 PM
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i am also running the flex a lites 210
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Old June 27th, 2006, 06:22 PM
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Matt, Hans: Are you guys running the stock 3.9 engine? That may be the comon denominator....
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Old June 27th, 2006, 07:10 PM
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no- i did the 4.6 swap

Follow-up Post:

by-the-way doug thanks for a past post of yours!!! my system was not pressurizing, change over flow cap and all is well on the pressure. the one you replaced-was it a cap with a red release lever?
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Old June 27th, 2006, 09:05 PM
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I'm running a 3.9, but with composite head gaskets.

-Hans
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  #9  
Old June 27th, 2006, 10:26 PM
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Yes -- it was the red release cap. Since then I've installed a later model Range Rover overflow (bigger tank) and added a return line to the heater hose so there is constant circulation. Nice set up.

Mike Green has a 4.6 in a 109 that heats up to 220 on grades and has had no issues for years.
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  #10  
Old June 27th, 2006, 11:36 PM
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would running a cooler thermostat change anything? if so- how would i go about finding that thermostat?
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  #11  
Old June 27th, 2006, 11:46 PM
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You can get a high flow thermostat (bigger opening) and 160 degree, 180 degree settings. Anyone know the part numbers? Can get from speed shops, maybe even a regular parts store. You ought to be able to tell them year/make, and they can cross reference the lower degree/high flow that will fit.
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  #12  
Old June 28th, 2006, 09:27 AM
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Matt,

I had the exact same situation as you when I ran my flex-a-lites, and it bugged me. Once the truck warmed up, the fans never turned off, which to me seems to imply that they weren't cooling enough. Not that the 200 is a problem, it just seems they should have the cooling power to continuously bring down the temperature while spinning. They should have brought it below the switch temp, so the fans would turn off, then the engine slowly heat back up until they kick back on (I also had the VW switch).

I never tried that hard to discover, but I suspected the fans even ran on the highway, which really with all that air flow they shouldn't have.

At the time, my belief was that the low end of the VW switch was too close to the thermostat temp. Meaning that the thermo would close at 190, but if memory serves the VW switch won't turn off until ~ 189 degrees. So I wondered if the thermo closed, the truck would never get down to the switch temp. I eventually took the fans out and went back to the stock setup, so I never figured it out.

However, not long after I went back to stock, I found I still had more cooling issues. The truck began to run warm on the highway, and I found I had some blocked tubes in the radiator. So now I believe it could have been the radiator that prevented the truck from cooling below the switch temp (I didn't have the VDO gauge then either, so I don't know how cool it got).

Since I'm going back to the flex-a-lites now, I'm doing things a little differently. I have the 160 thermostat in the truck, and with that the truck regularly runs around 175 degrees, unless at idle for a little while, or working it slowly on the trail, where it will work it's way up towards 200. Instead of the standard VW switch, I've got the lower temp one that kicks on at 180 and cools down to ~ 170. With the lower temp being significanly higher than the thermo, and the new 4 row radiator, I really hope it will now cycle on and off as it should.

See Hans' post for the part numbers of the switches:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...9&postcount=21
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  #13  
Old June 28th, 2006, 11:16 AM
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I have the VW temp sender which, I believe shuts off around 180 and turns on at 205, something like that. I run Flexalite 210's and I have a 4.6, but I also have a 4-core high flow radiator. I have no current temperature problems. On cool days, my fans never or rarely turn on. On hot days, they are on when I am at lights or cruising on really hot days otherwise they cycle. Actually, they are off more than I would have thought. Even on 105 degree days, they cycle.

Therefore, my conclusion at least at Colorado altitudes, if you have all your radiator/cooling equiptment up to snuff, then the flexalites work great, even with an upgraded engine.

Also, I have a big solid front skid, no vent holes--you would think that would make things a little worse--although I have not noticed.
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Old June 28th, 2006, 03:00 PM
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I had the VW switch also, but mine went bad. It's not that mine never turn off, it's that because of the broken switch I don't currently have a temp switch in the wiring, and they are wired to be constantly on. I need to order a new switch and put it in there, but the local NAPA burnt down a couple months ago.

-Hans
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Old June 28th, 2006, 07:45 PM
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dave-you are right on, they never shut off once they come on. chris-my switch also works in that range, comes on between 205-210 and shuts off between 180-185(a few times i will sit in the truck to see at what temp the fans shut off at). it keeps it at almost a constant 200 that does not allow the fans to shut off. i do have the stock radiator (i had it checked twice by to different shops before i put it back in. the first shop said the corners are leaking and i had them fix it. the second shop, a few weeks later, i had put in a different fitting and he checked it and said the corners were leaking a little. how about that ? !@$#?) can someone point to the direction of the cooler thermostat
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  #16  
Old June 28th, 2006, 09:31 PM
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I have the high flow #'s in the barn they are made by morosso. the gm ones will fit. I only use the 180 in the summer.


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Old June 28th, 2006, 09:36 PM
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I referenced a different number for the VW switch with a slightly different temp range. Came on at around 185 or so, and switched off at about 170 I think. In my case, it actually did switch off when the engine cooled down enough..... until the switch broke.

It's on my list of things to do, and I've posted the part number in a couple other threads. I'm at work right now, so can't check my reciepts at the moment.

-Hans
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  #18  
Old June 30th, 2006, 09:34 PM
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Can anyone give the part number for the VW fan switch? My fans work but won't come on.
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Old June 30th, 2006, 09:45 PM
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NAPA part numbers, also can be found under listings for a 1981 VW Jetta with the gas engine.

BA2010809 92C switch
BA2011545 82C switch

Should run around $20, and is a direct fit replacement, no modifications needed.

I believe the factory switch is something like 220 degrees that it activates, which is around 105C or so.
I recommend the 82C switch, which will generally come on as soon as your thermostat opens.

-Hans
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  #20  
Old July 18th, 2006, 07:59 PM
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I can not seem to find the part number for a 160 thermostat for a 94 any where in the forum or onthe net. Any one have the manufactures and numbers? Any one any better than any other. Driving in Houston this time of year and I am in the 200+ area all the time. New radiator and new V fan. Purple ice. Maybe that is as good as it gets between now and October.
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