Yay, new skid-plate time.... - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 27th, 2007, 01:20 PM
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Yay, new skid-plate time....

Well, the skid plate under the fuel tank has finally said "Hey, I'm rusted out and falling apart". So, a new one is on the way from SlickRock thanks to you guys suggestions.

So I'm looking for some advice on how best to go about this. I'm going to get me some PBlaster, soak it down for days before the swap, but I'd like to pick up some new hardware ahead of time as well. Anybody know which bolts I'm going to need?

And also, any good tips for the actual removal process?

-Hans
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  #2  
Old February 27th, 2007, 01:59 PM
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PB Blaster, PB Blaster, PB Blaster, and then some more PB Blaster

Start now and keep spraying all of the bolts

Use as much gas as you can from the tank before you start the job, that stuff is heavy

Might also want to have a drill on hand, new bolts and a proper size tap.
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  #3  
Old February 27th, 2007, 02:21 PM
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Hans - I cut and pasted this from an old message that I had written on this board. This was the experience that my shop had with my gas tank skid plate! Good luck!

Flagg

-------------------------

I just had my gas tank skid plate replaced. My rover shop said it was really shot - and holds some of the wieght of the gas tank. I went with the new Rovers North heavy galv. unit. I know everyone will scream at me for not going stainless - but the repair dollars keep adding up, and I figure the galv. will last a very long time. I had to save money somewhere.

Anyway - it ended up being a bigger job then planned. All the bolts were rusted and had to be drilled out..........and many of the connections for the new bolts were gone. They had to find points to weld new attachment points. Because welding was involved they had to remove the gas tank......

I hope yours in not that bad - but I wanted to forwarn you in case, so you will have heard of it. Also, make sure you go in with a near empty gas tank. When they remove the skid plate they have to support the gas tank........at 6 lbs +/- for a gallon of gas - having a full tank or a 1/4 tank makes a big difference.
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  #4  
Old February 27th, 2007, 02:56 PM
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May be a good time to replace the fuel pump - depending on how many miles you got on it. Better yet, cut an access panel for it.
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  #5  
Old February 27th, 2007, 03:27 PM
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Go slowly when removing the bolts. After the PB soaking I loosened then tightened the bolt I was working on over and over backing it out a little more each time so I wouldn't snap it. Worked on all but one bolt. Ratchet straps under the tank are your friend. A floor jack helped keep the plate from falling on my head.
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  #6  
Old February 27th, 2007, 04:32 PM
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I have replaced a few and I use a rachet stap between the tank and the skidplate to hold the tank in place when the plate comes off.

Eric
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  #7  
Old February 27th, 2007, 09:23 PM
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Mike Lynch
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I did mine last year and I cound not believe the condition of the skid plate. It's not as bad as some that I have seen here in some other posts. Like Tyler said, just go back and forth and keep the PB Blaster going. I soaked mine every monring for a week before I even got started. I ended up breaking one bolt which was a pain the in ass, but considering how difficult it was to get all of them out I am suprised that I only broke one. I put some anitseize on all of the bolts once I installed the new plate. I wedged a 2x4 between the axle and the lip of the gas tank to hold it up while replacing the plate. Worked out pretty good.
Good luck
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  #8  
Old February 27th, 2007, 11:02 PM
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LOL I think mine is going to be on the "That's pretty bad" pile once it comes out. It looks pretty fully destroyed already, and is starting to collapse. When I was on the phone today, I even recalled using the phrase "whichever version you can ship quicker".

One specific thing I'm curious about is how much of a pain in the butt the anti-sway bar is. Do you have to remove it totally? Or do you just need to do the bolts going through the skid plate, and move it out of the way?

-Hans
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  #9  
Old February 27th, 2007, 11:31 PM
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you will ony have to remove the bolts on the skid plate. the sway bar will swing down out of the way. i replaced the bolts while i was replacing the skid plate.
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  #10  
Old February 28th, 2007, 07:11 AM
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Be careful lowering your tank- When I did the lines were corroded and snapped at the fuel pump. Sucked.
Brian Bertolini
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  #11  
Old February 28th, 2007, 09:12 AM
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First clean the area around the tank with a presure washer.

Mine had so much sand and mud that the PB did not penatrate at first,
then PB Blaster, PB Blaster, PB Blaster, and then some more PB Blaster

as Tyler said
"After the PB soaking I loosened then tightened the bolt I was working on over and over backing it out a little more each time so I wouldn't snap it"

I used SS bolts and dumped the rear sway bar

My tank was almost empty and I supported the tank with 2 long screwdrivers thru the sides of the tank.

Good luck and take your time
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  #12  
Old February 28th, 2007, 11:24 AM
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You're still running your sways? Why did I think they were gone.
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Can't you feel 'em swimmin' around?
You got fins to the left, fins to the right,
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and you're the only girl in town.

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  #13  
Old March 8th, 2007, 08:42 PM
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Well, wasn't anywhere near as bad as I had feared. Only two snapped bolts, the high ones all the way in the back. Oh wait, and two more that are part of the swaybar brackets, but those I can grind the nuts off any I'll be fine. What a massive improvement the Slickrock plate is, and dear god was the original one in bad condition.

I should be all finished up tomorrow, horray!

-Hans
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  #14  
Old March 9th, 2007, 12:32 AM
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Old March 9th, 2007, 08:24 AM
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I wonder what his sliders look like?
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