XCase Rear Output Seal - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 25th, 2010, 02:13 PM
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Viggen
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Jarrod
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XCase Rear Output Seal

So, the handbrake isnt working on my '95 D1 because there is a seep in the output seal into the drum. I have the parts but as I looked through Haynes, I realized there was nothing on it. The seal cant be too hard to do. Undo the nut, pull the flange and then the mud shield and then the seal itself. Install is the opposite. My question is about the torque figure on the flange nut itself. Anyone know and have any tips/ tricks for the job?
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  #2  
Old August 26th, 2010, 09:36 AM
MonLand
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Loic Fabro
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Soack (and let it sit overnight) the brake pads into something (brake cleaner fluid seems the obvious) to try to remove as much oil from the pads as possible. This is going to be the trickiest part of the job!
No trick to do the job, but in my case, the T-case (I assume that's why you mean by "xcase") was out of the truck, so it was easy to do input and output seals. I don't recall bothering with the torque, you will feel how much torque you will need to get it out. Likely, I put some blue thread locker to avoid having it backing out if there is no other locking mechanism.
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  #3  
Old August 26th, 2010, 10:33 AM
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steve
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last time my rear output was leaking it was the nut no the seal. I was all ready to do the whole change, took it apart, and the nut was a smidge loose and oil was passing by the felt washer.
use locktite.
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  #4  
Old August 26th, 2010, 11:49 AM
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Bill Campbell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user View Post
last time my rear output was leaking it was the nut no the seal. I was all ready to do the whole change, took it apart, and the nut was a smidge loose and oil was passing by the felt washer.
use locktite.
Same here on my 94 D-90. Did that about 5 years ago with locktite and haven't had a weep since.

B
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