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  #1  
Old July 20th, 2013, 03:00 PM
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WTH is it

Working on Treys 83 110. Behind the instrument binnacle is a white wire feeding into two brown wires with yellow traces. The are connected by a twist together white fuse holder. Inside is what looks like a fuse except the outside is covered with wire mesh and when I continuity test it I get no sound. I found a spare wiring harness out of another truck and same colors, same holder, and same deal on the mesh covered fuse deal. I'm staring @ the wiring diagram and giving myself a headache. What the hell is this thing
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  #2  
Old July 20th, 2013, 03:04 PM
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Is it broken? If not, don't try to fix it. (Excellent 12,000 post from me. )

I believe it is the charging system warning light.
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  #3  
Old July 20th, 2013, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Is it broken? If not, don't try to fix it. (Excellent 12,000 post from me. )
Ron- clearly I am chasing gremlins so yeah- something is wrong

No wipers, no heater, no gauges. Previously the gauges worked but wipers and heater motor works when jumped with 12v. Need to get an inspection sticker on this thing.
Thinking bad ground. Where does the black ground wire in the main harness ground to the chassis ? Probably disturbed that @ some point.
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  #4  
Old July 20th, 2013, 03:10 PM
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Sorry. I edited. I think it is charging system warning if memory serves me from janey. Charles fixed if after I had it. If I recall correctly, when it goes bad it shuts a bunch of stuff off.
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Old July 20th, 2013, 03:12 PM
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Don't know about the mystery item behind the dash but it sounds like ou need to double check the fuse holders in the main fuse panel on the firewall, that was the source of most of my problems when I first got my truck. (No heater, no turn signals, some intermittent stuff).

You need to test the clip and the fuse both while the fuse is installed and the item is switched on.
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Old July 20th, 2013, 03:53 PM
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http://www.team.net/sol/tech/LucasColours.html

This has always been helpful to me.

Does the charging light come on if you disconnect the alternator? Weird stuff happens when that bulb goes out.
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  #7  
Old July 20th, 2013, 04:05 PM
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If you have the wiring diagrams, look at the instrumentation, if it's the same diagrams as mine it's on page 47.1 near the top.

A white wire goes into connector 038 pin 1, which is the inline resistor for several of the warning lamps. It then emerges from the resistor as Yellow/Brown on Connector C037 pin 1. It then splits into 2 places, one going to the instrument binnacle on connector 230 pin 5, and the other half goes to the charge warning diode on C118-2. The other side of the diode, on C118-1, is Brown Yellow and heads off to the alternator's charging failure indicator terminal.

Basically this is the stuff required to feed all of your idiot lamps, and then specifically the charge warning.
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  #8  
Old July 20th, 2013, 04:21 PM
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Sooo.... all the things you are describing as not working go through the same ground header.

Is the clock running? That's a quick way to check this particular ground bus.

It all feeds to the engine compartment, center top of the firewall near the heater box. Look for 6 black wires going into a header, then an eyelet bolted next to it. That's the ground in question.
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  #9  
Old July 20th, 2013, 09:25 PM
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Neil,
Thanks. I had figured out it was a resistor. Pretty wild putting it in a fuse holder. I undid the ground wire where it bolts to the bulkhead in the engine compartment and bolted a second lug under that bolt and ran a ground direct to the battery so the dash harness is well grounded now. Yes clock is running and I had the heater blower running today on both speeds but the switch seems to be toast. Still no love with the wipers which is what I need to work to pass inspection.
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  #10  
Old July 20th, 2013, 09:40 PM
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OK, well then for the wipers let's walk down the circuit.

Get to the stalk switch, and look at the connector. There should be a green wire on pin 6. It should have 12 volts on it when the ignition is on. If it doesn't, check fuse 4.

Once you have 12 volts there, select the "slow" speed on the switch and then while it's all connected confirm you have 12 volts on pin 4, which is Yellow with a light green stripe. That confirms the switch is working.

After that, move to the wiper motor itself. This is where unfortunately we have crummy diagrams. If there is a yellow with light green, check for voltage. If there is a Blue with light green, that's your next bet.

If you have voltage at the motor and it's still not doing anything, perform a continuity test between the black wire on the motor connector and the closest metal object you believe to have a ground.

Post results....
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  #11  
Old July 20th, 2013, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
Don't know about the mystery item behind the dash but it sounds like ou need to double check the fuse holders in the main fuse panel on the firewall, that was the source of most of my problems when I first got my truck. (No heater, no turn signals, some intermittent stuff).

You need to test the clip and the fuse both while the fuse is installed and the item is switched on.
I had this. (Still do to some extent). What's funny is my gauges would work, and then if I'd try to turn the wipers on all of the gauges would go dead. I cleaned up some of the clips that hold the fuses and things got better with the wipers and gauges. I've bought a replacement fuse panel because I still cannot get reliable blower motor and a few other circuits. One of these days I might even install it.
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  #12  
Old July 21st, 2013, 07:17 AM
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Doug, You may also have a grounding wire package behind the instrument cluster attached to the metal vent control support, I think. Have you check the wires at the key switch?
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  #13  
Old July 21st, 2013, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Capt Milks View Post
Doug, You may also have a grounding wire package behind the instrument cluster attached to the metal vent control support, I think. Have you check the wires at the key switch?
ignition switch, turn signal switch, light switch, wiper stalk are all new, didn't want to put the boy on the road with 30 year old controls. All fuses have been removed and checked for continuity, sprayed with contact cleaner and replaced.
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  #14  
Old July 21st, 2013, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
ignition switch, turn signal switch, light switch, wiper stalk are all new, didn't want to put the boy on the road with 30 year old controls. All fuses have been removed and checked for continuity, sprayed with contact cleaner and replaced.
Did you check voltages at the places I mentioned?
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  #15  
Old July 21st, 2013, 12:25 PM
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you can have good fuses and clean contacts and still not have continuity. Gotta check for connection between the fuseholder and the metal part of the fuse. Not to beat a dead horse. But, I drove around for two weeks with no heater because of this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
All fuses have been removed and checked for continuity, sprayed with contact cleaner and replaced.
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  #16  
Old July 21st, 2013, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post
Did you check voltages at the places I mentioned?
Being a hard headed Scot, I went straight to the wiper motor. With ground and 6a to the various terminals I got a couple groans but no rotation so I unbolted the motor and loosend the large nut where the drive cable attaches so I could rotate the motor and remove the back plate that covers the drive gear. Things looked good, no corrosion or stripped plastic gear so I tried juice again while watching- nothing. So I went and tried to move the wiper arms myself. They didn't even budge. I cut off the rubber grommets that seal the shaft from the elements and shot crc buster loose down the shafts and started working the two wiper arms. Once I had a couple inches of movement I'd go bump the motor with 6a. I slowly worked the rack through two revolutions while liberally applying busterloose (great product). I then went back and applied a constant 6a and the wipers moved as they should and gradually became faster and faster. On most of these trucks the wiper racks are very worn after 30 years in the UK- this one with only 61k is tight as new. Definately the first one I have seen that was frozen.

So I put everything back together and turned the key on and tried the stalk- nothing.

Grabbing lunch and going to go back and pull the column apart and check continuity though each of the wires to the wipers, and of course voltage to the switch but I have 12.7 on each side of the wiper fuse so feel there must be power to the switch.
This thing sitting in a field in W. Yorkshire for a decade untouched didn't do the wipers any favors.

Worst case I'm going to rig a toggle switch to get the wipers to work for inspection tomorrow.
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Old July 21st, 2013, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching View Post
you can have good fuses and clean contacts and still not have continuity. Gotta check for connection between the fuseholder and the metal part of the fuse. Not to beat a dead horse. But, I drove around for two weeks with no heater because of this.
I feel ya Dave. Thats what the issue was with the fuel and temp gauges. Odd that the turn signals worked but not the gauges. With the fuse box off the firewall and some, persistence on my part working the wires on the back, its all good now. I have been through damn near the entire wiring loom on this truck. All new lights on the rear, all new lights on the front, main plugs on bulkhead where the three parts of the harness meet, the fuse box, all the switches and stalks, the wipers, the heater. Hoping persistence breaks resistance.

Catching a BLT and then going to go hurl more expletives @ this yet to be named truck.
Thank god I have the shop air conditioned with a large window unit, this 100+ degree heat index crap has got to go.
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  #18  
Old July 21st, 2013, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post


Thank god I have the shop air conditioned with a large window unit, this 100+ degree heat index crap has got to go.
Dude, I never even thought of that for the big top tent out back. I'll have to check how my h a free standing AC unit costs...

Glad the gremlins are on the way out...
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Present:
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  #19  
Old July 21st, 2013, 03:57 PM
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Dave I have one of those high dollar free standing heat pump units used in computer server/cold rooms that would both heat and cool for your big top. Whatcha got to trade ?

I'm sure everyone will be amazed to hear that my problem was the brand new OEM Lucas wiper stalk switch. I had voltage so I pulled the wiper stalk out of the 87 127 sitting in the barn and the wipers work fine with that one.
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  #20  
Old July 21st, 2013, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I feel ya Dave. Thats what the issue was with the fuel and temp gauges. Odd that the turn signals worked but not the gauges. With the fuse box off the firewall and some, persistence on my part working the wires on the back, its all good now. I have been through damn near the entire wiring loom on this truck. All new lights on the rear, all new lights on the front, main plugs on bulkhead where the three parts of the harness meet, the fuse box, all the switches and stalks, the wipers, the heater. Hoping persistence breaks resistance.

Catching a BLT and then going to go hurl more expletives @ this yet to be named truck.
Thank god I have the shop air conditioned with a large window unit, this 100+ degree heat index crap has got to go.
Maybe call this truck Shorty
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