wrapping exhaust manifold to reduce underhood temperatures. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 12th, 2012, 09:10 PM
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Clark Bowen
1969 Series 2a/OM617 Bugeye 88"
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wrapping exhaust manifold to reduce underhood temperatures.

Has anyone wrapped their exhaust manifold (stock) with fiberglas or titanium wrap and did it significantly lower underhood temperatures?
What about the effect on the manifold. Rust, brittleness from heat, etc.
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  #2  
Old February 13th, 2012, 08:16 AM
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The three best things I ever did for my truck for cooling:

I replaced my stock headers with a pair of NOS ceramic coated headers bought from on here 3-4 years ago

I bought a NOS radiator sent it to pendy on here and he re-cored it and it more than doubled its capacity.

I put a Borla cat-back exhaust on it to help speed the hot gas thru.

Between these three upgrades my truck now feels like new. The engine re found its top end and I am not overstating when I say I think I "found" 7-10 mph.
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  #3  
Old February 13th, 2012, 09:35 AM
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Matthew
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I wrapped my cast iron manifolds on my non-turbo 88 BMW, after about 4 months I was getting a "ticking" noise at idle. Turned out to be a cracked manifold, im assuming from the excess heat.

Mind you these manifolds has close to 150k on them at the time.

I think that the wrapping and thermal tape should be used on tubular headers, the cast manifolds dont seem to like them
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  #4  
Old February 13th, 2012, 12:42 PM
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Randy
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I was thinking about wrapping the down pipe on the tdi. Not sure if it would help either.
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Old February 13th, 2012, 01:16 PM
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Clark Bowen
1969 Series 2a/OM617 Bugeye 88"
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My big concern is underhood heat. I have a new re-cored 4 row radiator so I'm not as worried about motor heat, but the supercharger puts out lots of heat and it is about 3/4 of an inch from the bonnet.
Don't like the idea of louvers or vents on the top of the bonnet because of rain. Trying to find some high quality 3" vents to install on the side of the bonnet or cowling. No luck so far.
But, in the meantime, wrapping or ceramic coating the exhaust manifold seemed like it would help.
I've avoided headers because: 1. they are notorious for leaking and 2. the stock manifolds don't seem that bad. I like the cool factor, however.
I think the point about cast iron and the wrap retaining heat really makes sense to me.
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  #6  
Old February 13th, 2012, 02:39 PM
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Mark M
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Clark - highly recommend ceramic coating the stock manifolds. Made a big difference on the 4.6 in my 90. As an example, in Moab, I could barely open the hood without burning my hands before. After, it was no issue at all. FYI - Brent @ Columbia Rovers, in your neck of the woods, coated mine for the V8. For my TD5, I went with a local coater and they turned out great as well. Half-assed is not your style, so I wouldn't mess with the wrap. My $0.02 Mark
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  #7  
Old February 13th, 2012, 03:30 PM
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West Marine.... Stainless or pvc vents galore.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...0&keyword=vent

my pick..

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=50679
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  #8  
Old February 13th, 2012, 04:23 PM
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why not a TD5 style vent

http://www.simmonites.com/Defender%20exterior.htm
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  #9  
Old February 13th, 2012, 04:50 PM
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Clark Bowen
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Thanks.....

Took Patrick's suggestion and bought the West Marine vents. I had been looking at West Marine and missed these.
Matt..... Like the TD5 vents but they are a bit big for the RRC. Thanks for the idea.
Mark..... Liked your idea and I'll get them coated. Appreciate the compliment too.

Clark
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  #10  
Old February 13th, 2012, 08:34 PM
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Mark M
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Clark - no compliment - fact - I've seen your truck. One other recommendation. Coat the manifolds then do an assessment before cutting your truck for vents. Learn threw one of my mistakes to think long and hard before cutting.... HTH. Mark
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Old February 13th, 2012, 10:03 PM
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I agree get you should coat the headers. You shouldn't need to cut any tin. Maybe try dual fans infront of the radiator?
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  #12  
Old February 13th, 2012, 10:09 PM
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Two thumbs up for ceramic coated manifold, dont waste your time wrapping them, spend the extra money and have them coated. It will reduce the engine compartment heat and they will outlast your truck.
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  #13  
Old February 13th, 2012, 10:40 PM
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2 thumbs up for ceramic coated headman Headers from. My Headmans have not leaked in 5 years and. Wrapped the pipe from post cat to the the muffler. Also put a thermal blanket under the center tunnel above the tranny. to try to keep the heat out. In the inside, I put the TDI seat box cover.

I have a 94 and running the headlight covers that have the 3 small vents between the parking lamps. I took a hole saw and cut a whole where those vents are. next, went to home depot and got some ducting, pop rivited it to the whole and directed air over into the engine compartment. Not a lot of work but no one will notice that there are vents into the engine bay as they are covered by the headlight covers. I can post a pic or 2.
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Old February 13th, 2012, 11:38 PM
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Clark Bowen
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Reminds me of a friend in college (circa early 1960s) who used his windshield fluid tank for whiskey and ran the piping into the glove compartment. Glass awaiting. Just push the squirter button for a drink.
Guess this wouldn't fly too well these days.
But I'm guessing most of you probably missed the 60s anyway. Piss on Tom Brokaw - they were fantastic. Especially being on the West Coast.

Back to business: removing the exhaust manifolds and sending them to Performance Coatings tomorrow. Looked at Jet Hot, but the reviews were all over the board.

And yes, I make mistakes by the carload lot so I will be very careful with placing and cutting for vents.
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  #15  
Old February 14th, 2012, 12:15 PM
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I just had this done by an industry coating place here in the south, turned out so nice, I've been looking for more things to ceramic coat...

For the cost I just can't imagine why so many people (members on here included) who do these beautiful and perfect engine builds and TDI swaps don't get this done. Every other part of your rig and your engine look brand f-ing new, and then you see the 20 year old 200tdi exhaust manifold rusty and grimy as all hell poking out from under the brand new rubber sound deadener... It's the best $200 you'd ever spend and if you get a nice satin coat it will last forever and always look great not to mention that it will decr your under hood temps, and if you're running a turbo, it will actually make it more efficient by keeping the heat where it should be!
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  #16  
Old February 14th, 2012, 02:07 PM
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Snorkel, esp with a supercharger, you want to move the air intake up anyway, a tablespoon of water will make your sc very unhappy maybe even blow it up.
HB
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  #17  
Old February 15th, 2012, 12:24 AM
cdb
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Clark Bowen
1969 Series 2a/OM617 Bugeye 88"
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Not convinced on the snorkle. Couldn't find a good way to make it work well either.
I've run previous RRCs deep enough in rivers that water came over the hood and the only issue was condensation in the distributor.
This was sometimes with an open K & N cone filter and no box around and sometimes with the stock setup.
This time I've moved the K & N to right where you could add a second battery and walled it off from the rest of the engine compartment with an aluminum shield. Air feed is from below - which I can cap off when in water.
I also have a K & N microfilter bag that goes over air filter ( http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...Prod=RC-5100DK) to lessen the the chance of water getting in.
Since one of the ways you can deal with possible detonation or high engine temperatures is water/methanol injection I don't see how a little water will make that much difference. I don't mean enough to hydro-lock the motor, just a little mist.
Also, the sc wouldn't be under load crossing a creek and so there wouldn't be any boost.
Am I missing something?
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