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  #1  
Old October 7th, 2006, 02:20 PM
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Christian Gunther
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Won't start - Distributor

I was changing the vacuum advance today, and after getting everything back together my truck won't start. I think it has to do with when I pulled off the rotor arm, the assembly it is attached to lifted up. It moves too freely now. Anyone have any tips? I am very new at this.

Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old October 7th, 2006, 06:06 PM
Andrew Vick
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You're going to have to pull the distributor back out, and the parts below the rotor have to be reassembled. Should be a couple of weights and springs. Is the rotor just flopping back and forth? Do you have a manual?
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  #3  
Old October 7th, 2006, 06:12 PM
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Christian Gunther
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It is. I actually didn't pull the distributor, just the cap, and the rotor arm to get the case off to install the vacuum advance. When I put it back together the rotor arm was point at about 11 instead of 1. I cranked it a couple of times.

I have a manual, but haven't done this before. Did I mess up the timing, or is there a way for me to re-seat the rotor in the right position?

Thanks again,
Christian
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  #4  
Old October 7th, 2006, 06:48 PM
Andrew Vick
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Okay. You probably didn't mess up the timing. Pull the cap, then the rotor, and there should be three screws holding down a clear "flash" shield. Pull that, and you'll find a couple of springs and odd shaped parts probably just hanging out down there. Can you find a diagram of it? That will help you get the springs back on correctly. Same thing happened to me 2 years ago damn near to the day trying to get ready for a pheasant hunt. Every time you change your oil, you're supposed to pull the cap and rotor and drip a bit of oil down the spindle so it doesn't implode. Yeah, right. Who does that? Call me at 9702744042 if this doesn't make sense.

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Christian: Call me again. F(*&ing Motorola Q locked up and I lost your number. Home is 9705444887
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  #5  
Old October 7th, 2006, 08:17 PM
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Christian, you probably messed up the timing since the rotor arm didn't go back where it started. That means you pulled the distributor gear apart so you are going to need to go through the static timing procedure after you fix the mechanical advance springs. Personally, I would pull the distributor, but you may not need to (more on this later).

To fix the mechanical advance you will need to pull the pick up module and base plate. To do this, pull the cap and rotor, then undo the 3 screws holding down the clear plastic cover and remove the cover. Then you will need to remove the circlip holding the reluctor (the round thing with the sharp teeth), then the washer, then use a small screwdriver to pry out the rubber seal. The reluctor will then come right off. *CAREFULLY* remove the two pick up lead wires from the plastic carrier. The carrier gets brittle from age and easily breaks (don't ask how I know this). Undo the three screws holding down the base plate and remove the base plate. You will now see the mechanical advance. The center piece attached to the distributor shaft fits in between the two centrifugal weights.

Now put the rotor back on and pull the shaft up to disengage the gear and rotate the shaft so that it's about 30 degrees counter clockwise from where it was when you started (1 o'clock you said? so rotate it to about 11 o'clock). Now push it back down and it will rotate clockwise at the gears re-engage. Rotate the mechanical advance plate so that it fits together. It should fit FLUSH. If not, there is a little plastic piece on the shaft that has to be rotated so that it matches up with the center arm. Now reattach the springs to the advance plate. Replace the pick up base plate and screw it down. Replace the reluctor, the seal, the washer and the circlip. Might as well check the air gap while you're there. Reinstall the clear cover and the rotor.

AND IF YOU ARE LUCKY the tongue on the oil pump will not have moved and will fit with the grooved end on the distributor shaft and the whole distributor drops back into place.

IF YOU ARE NOT LUCKY then you will need to pull the distributor and use a long flat-bladed screwdriver to fiddle with the tongue so that it will line up when you reinsert the distributor.

Hope that helps.... email me if you have questions!
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  #6  
Old October 8th, 2006, 09:44 AM
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Christian Gunther
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What now?

I have it apart, but see only two options from here to get the springs re-attached and hopefully the whole thing seated properly.

1. Pull the Cam off so I can take the plates apart.
2. Somehow remove the piece the pins are attached to.

I hope the photos are clear enough. Thanks again for your help. Learning tons. No going very far, but learning.
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  #7  
Old October 8th, 2006, 10:49 AM
Andrew Vick
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The Picture

This should help.
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File Type: doc Dist.doc (154.0 KB, 152 views)
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  #8  
Old October 8th, 2006, 01:22 PM
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Sorry for the link post. Thanks for removing.
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  #9  
Old October 8th, 2006, 04:23 PM
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Christian Gunther
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Running!

Thanks to Andrew and Jim for their help. Just in case anyone else has this issue...

When changing the vacuum advance, hold the cam down with a screw driver or something when pulling off the rotor arm. That will prevent lifting the mechanism, popping off the springs, and the ultimate reason for my issue, displacement of the crab claw looking weights under everything.

A beer to Jim. 6 to Andrew.

Oh, and the timing isn't any worse now than it was when I started yesterday. Thanks again!
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  #10  
Old October 8th, 2006, 04:34 PM
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Christian, The thing you call a cam is actually called a "reluctor." You MUST pull this off by prying off the rubber seal with a small flat blade screwdriver. That is the only way you can access the springs.

Follow-up Post:

Have a beer on me for a job well done! It's very satisfying to get that close to your truck
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  #11  
Old October 8th, 2006, 06:44 PM
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You can have my six too, until you're in Aspen this winter:D

Congratulations!
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  #12  
Old October 9th, 2006, 11:33 AM
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Christian Gunther
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Okay, I lied

Well, I started it up and tried driving to work today, but it feels like there is no real pull, and when I take my foot off the gas, the truck sputters. Seems kind of intermittent.

Started like a champ, idles evenly. Any ideas?
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  #13  
Old October 9th, 2006, 11:48 AM
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May want to check the timing, but I'd keep driving it and see what happens. May want to disconnect the ECM and have it reset.
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  #14  
Old October 9th, 2006, 12:38 PM
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Christian Gunther
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???

Could it be ignition wires, plugs, or anything like that? I forgot to mention that it seems like I am smelling a lot more gas than I was before, and getting some heavier exhaust.
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Old October 9th, 2006, 03:38 PM
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I second Andrew, I think your timing is off.
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  #16  
Old October 9th, 2006, 04:04 PM
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Christian Gunther
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Timing light

Off to buy (and learn how to use) a timing light. Good fun. I will post the results.
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  #17  
Old October 9th, 2006, 06:27 PM
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Running rich it sounds like. Man, Jim. You and I are going to have a LOT of beer to consume
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  #18  
Old October 9th, 2006, 11:43 PM
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I've already started on 'em. Cheers!

Yeah, Christian is probably not getting a full fuel burn in the cylinder. If there's knocking then it's too advanced but my money says that the spark is too late.

Christian: Also check the air gap! When reassembling the reluctor and pick up did you get the air gap right? If not, you may be getting a lot of non-firing.
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  #19  
Old October 11th, 2006, 11:14 AM
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Christian Gunther
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Timing

I think it is severely retarded timing (and mechanic) and running thin because of it. I drove it around for about 1/2 hour on side streets, and it seemed to run okay until I tried to get it up to speed. It started heating up and wouldn't go faster than 40 in 4th even at 3k RPMs. Once it hit 205 degrees with little indication of backing off the test drive was over. I should be able to check it more later this week. I will let you know what happens.

I have one seriously unhappy wife over this. I keep giving her more reasons to hate this thing. Just think how she's going to feel when I get the Series truck. Seriously.

Thoughts?
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  #20  
Old October 11th, 2006, 12:11 PM
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Fix the timing? :-)
I don't know how to do it, so I would take it to a mechanic if this is an emergency, otherwise, I'll just learn about it.
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