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  #21  
Old September 19th, 2011, 07:29 PM
jijalicious
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Jiman Khosravan
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This one...
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  #22  
Old September 19th, 2011, 07:34 PM
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Chris Snyder
1994 D90 #614 | '07 L322 SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jijalicious View Post
This one...
Oh.... Yeah there's no reason to open that. If the check engine light is illuminated and there's an actual fault to display it will illuminate and you'll be able to see it through the plastic.

Sometimes it takes turning the ignition off, waiting for the relay to drop out, then turning the ignition back on. I haven't figured out why it takes that to display a code, but every now and a again I'll have to do that.
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  #23  
Old September 19th, 2011, 07:43 PM
jijalicious
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Jiman Khosravan
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Update...

So here's the current progress...

Changed coil
Changed coil wires
Changed mallory ignition distributor cap and rotor arm
Changed mallory ballast resistor
Replaced all the cables and re-did connections and dielectric greased them all.
Fuel pump and ecu relay holders were removed, new ones put in.

What hasn't been touched: fuel pump and filter
I can't seem to get a definite answer has to which pump will work for 94 D90 3.9L... unless I go with LRs which is $300.

Code doesn't show anything...

Some days it starts, others it doesn't. I can't trust it.. fear it may leave me stranded at work... AND THAT... THAT WOULD BE AWFUL

Where does the fuel lines go into the engine? If I disconnect it.. and the pump is running.. it should spray everywhere right? Is that a feasible test on the days it doesn't turn on? To see if the pump is pushing gasoline?

Thanks all,

~Jij

------ Follow up post added September 19th, 2011 07:45 PM ------

Woops.. I guess I should reseal it tightly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cellulararrest View Post
Oh.... Yeah there's no reason to open that. If the check engine light is illuminated and there's an actual fault to display it will illuminate and you'll be able to see it through the plastic.

Sometimes it takes turning the ignition off, waiting for the relay to drop out, then turning the ignition back on. I haven't figured out why it takes that to display a code, but every now and a again I'll have to do that.

Also, the 2 relays, one is for the fuel pump, the other ECU, right?
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  #24  
Old September 20th, 2011, 02:53 AM
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Andy
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If it's just a wet weather issue, did you check the ignition amplifier module on the distributor? When it was wet out, mine would have the same symptoms you initially listed. All I needed to do is spray some WD-40 on module and the engine fired right up. Ended up moving/replacing the module and haven't had a problem in wet weather since.
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  #25  
Old September 20th, 2011, 06:49 AM
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Matthew
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I bought a new fuel pump kit through rovers north I believe and it was on the less expensive side as well as a fuel filter kit. Ill see if i can find the link to the part When you turn the key to the first position you can actually here the relay close, pump prime, then the relay open. If you hear the relay but no pump work back from there. I'd you hear the pump pressurize then I would suggest starting at the filter(along chassis near passenger door). If you can drop your fuel tank skid plate then it's pretty easy change. Just watch out for all the tubes and connections. The anti rollover spill valve and some other elements on the top of the tank are NLA and a PITA to source.

My 2 cents
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  #26  
Old September 20th, 2011, 08:10 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jijalicious View Post
Also, the 2 relays, one is for the fuel pump, the other ECU, right?
Yes. You never mentioned if you did the test I suggested but you should make sure the relays are good before wasting your time and money on anything else as these symptoms sound dead on for bad relays.
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  #27  
Old September 20th, 2011, 08:38 AM
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AndrewT
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I saw you mentioned the ignition switch in earlier posts but no mention of that since them. Have you checked or replaced that?

I also just had moisture in my '93 D110 from the rain (door leak) and the carpets got wet and held the water. Truck would only start intermittently since then and then wouldn't start at all - would crank and try but not stay running. I replaced ignition switch and all is well. $40 or so and not too bad to replace - didn't have to break off the shear bolts and remove the ignition from the steering yolk - I was able to remove and replace the ignition switch with that all in place.

Just suggesting this. From my research, I am not sure the ignition switch was designed to last more than 15 yrs or so since replacement at this age seems very common. And having a moisture (or high heat) episode would push it over the edge if it was at its EOL anyway. When I removed mine, it looked fine but part of the plastic was slightly separated from the metal housing so the contacts would not always be connected. Perhaps you can remove the dash binnacle there near the speedo cluster and check the switch - it could look OK but make sure there is no play between the plastic housing and the metal seat where it mounts to the ignition key assembly.

AndrewT
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  #28  
Old September 20th, 2011, 09:02 AM
jijalicious
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Jiman Khosravan
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I hear the pump's 5 sec weezing everytime... so it does start to prime

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Yes. You never mentioned if you did the test I suggested but you should make sure the relays are good before wasting your time and money on anything else as these symptoms sound dead on for bad relays.
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  #29  
Old September 20th, 2011, 09:23 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Ok, then I personally would not replace the pump. The fuel lines come into the fuel rail at the left rear of the engine. I believe you'd see fuel spewing out when you crank the key (be sure to capture or direct it into a container if you try this). There is no pressure release valve - you just unscrew the clamp and pull off the hose at the fuel rail.

I wish I could give you a better suggestion, but perhaps it's time to see if you can rule out the ignition module and/or ignition switch, but I am not sure of the best way to do that.
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  #30  
Old September 20th, 2011, 09:30 AM
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Bill Adams
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Fried ignition amp on the side of the distributor. Classic symptoms. If the pins get corrosion or the unit gets wet...poof! About $80 for genuine. I always keep a spare.
Since you got it to fire, you can rule out all the fuel issues.

Oh, one more thing, your battery. At rest it should be showing at least 13 volts. When charging it should show 14.4-14.6. At 12.5 it is discharged and nearly dead.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

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  #31  
Old September 20th, 2011, 09:33 AM
jijalicious
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Jiman Khosravan
'94 D90
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Interesting enough, I did get a new one, just haven't isntalled it... the fact that the engine does try to start suggests to me that it's not the igntion switch. Everytime I've turned the key, it tries to turn over... Never have I turned the key and nothing happen.

Or am i missing something? Could it still be the ignition switch?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Lesandjes View Post
I saw you mentioned the ignition switch in earlier posts but no mention of that since them. Have you checked or replaced that?

I also just had moisture in my '93 D110 from the rain (door leak) and the carpets got wet and held the water. Truck would only start intermittently since then and then wouldn't start at all - would crank and try but not stay running. I replaced ignition switch and all is well. $40 or so and not too bad to replace - didn't have to break off the shear bolts and remove the ignition from the steering yolk - I was able to remove and replace the ignition switch with that all in place.

Just suggesting this. From my research, I am not sure the ignition switch was designed to last more than 15 yrs or so since replacement at this age seems very common. And having a moisture (or high heat) episode would push it over the edge if it was at its EOL anyway. When I removed mine, it looked fine but part of the plastic was slightly separated from the metal housing so the contacts would not always be connected. Perhaps you can remove the dash binnacle there near the speedo cluster and check the switch - it could look OK but make sure there is no play between the plastic housing and the metal seat where it mounts to the ignition key assembly.

AndrewT
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  #32  
Old September 20th, 2011, 09:42 AM
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Bill Adams
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Quote:
Could it still be the ignition switch?
No. Not the switch, it cranks with switch keyed. All good there. It's the module on the diz. This thing converts the electromagnetic pulses from the Hall Effect pick up into electric signal to the ECU. One frazzled diode inside there can work one moment and not the next.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #33  
Old September 20th, 2011, 09:44 AM
jijalicious
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Jiman Khosravan
'94 D90
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Are we talking about this:

http://www.britishparts.co.uk/.sc/ms...IFIER%20MODULE

and it's cousin the ugprade?:

http://www.toddcosuspensions.com/larode90110p.html

------ Follow up post added September 20th, 2011 09:47 AM ------

or this part of the dizzy:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_i=507846

------ Follow up post added September 20th, 2011 09:47 AM ------

Also

------ Follow up post added September 20th, 2011 09:58 AM ------

Also, when the problem happens, and it doesn't start...but jsut cranks over and over again.. there is no spark ( i test this using a tester grounded instead of using the coil wire, shoving a screw driver inside and grounding it).


When the issue is no spark...

That does rule out fuel correct?
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  #34  
Old September 20th, 2011, 10:02 AM
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Bill Adams
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I referring to this (genuine Lucas) or this (Proline fake BritPart chinese sweatshop version) the same thing is available from AB with a relocation kit.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #35  
Old September 20th, 2011, 11:20 AM
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Lesandjes
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AndrewT
'93 NAS D110
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Not disagreeing. But my D110 cranked fine with the bad ignition switch. It would crank and fire fine and the truck would sound like it was starting momentarily then I would back the switch off the START position and the truck would die. I knew it was getting gas as the truck would rev high if I tried starting it with the peddle pressed but would instantly die when the key went to ON from START position.

One difference is that I had weird symptoms with the key in the various positions. The dash warning lights (that come on when you turn the key ON) would come on sometimes and not others - and there would be lights coming on and off as the key was in-between positions (which shouldn't happen) which lead me to the ignition switch. If you don't have these issues then the switch may not be your issue.

AndrewT



Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
No. Not the switch, it cranks with switch keyed. All good there. It's the module on the diz. This thing converts the electromagnetic pulses from the Hall Effect pick up into electric signal to the ECU. One frazzled diode inside there can work one moment and not the next.
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  #36  
Old September 20th, 2011, 11:31 AM
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Charles Galpin
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I recommend getting the relocation kit if you are going to do the ignition module as it's a pita to get to (and I too think this is the culprit). You can try one of the local used parts vendors for one off a Disco 1 for a lot less (Randy Williams/pushngo or Will Tillery).
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  #37  
Old September 20th, 2011, 12:08 PM
jijalicious
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Jiman Khosravan
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Would you have a pic of it's exact location?


Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I recommend getting the relocation kit if you are going to do the ignition module as it's a pita to get to (and I too think this is the culprit). You can try one of the local used parts vendors for one off a Disco 1 for a lot less (Randy Williams/pushngo or Will Tillery).
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  #38  
Old September 20th, 2011, 12:46 PM
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Charles Galpin
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It's mounted to the side of the distributor. Shown on the right in this picture

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-6...9l-35dlm8.aspx
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  #39  
Old September 20th, 2011, 02:17 PM
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Russell
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Also give CRC 5-56 spray a look. This has saved me on more than a few occasions.
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  #40  
Old September 20th, 2011, 02:48 PM
jijalicious
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Jiman Khosravan
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I'll take a look at that module when i get home to see if there's water/rust damage on the box or connectors.

Also, just to re-ask...

If there's no spark... place to look at are.... ?
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