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  #21  
Old January 6th, 2016, 01:37 PM
Departing90
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Take off the big pipe that runs from the cylindrical air filter housing to the intake manifold. Hold the bass butterfly open with your fingers and spray some starting fluid in tge manifold housing. If it "catches" it means you have fuel issues. Now disconnect tye gas line going into tye fuel rail, start tye engine and see if there is any gas comming out. If there is then the issue is the fuel pressure regulator. Thats tye vaccume looking gizmo on the fuel rail. If no gas tgen follow your nose and check gas lines, possible vaccume lock in gas tank, rdlay, fuse etc.......
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  #22  
Old January 6th, 2016, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by redline_r View Post
Does "dry gas" work for diesels as well? --Trying to sort out a similar no-reason for not starting issue.
likely it's your glow plugs if you're engine has them.

They do make a dry gas additive for diesels but generally I've found more fuel can help dilute the tank you have. Cold weather often brings out watery fuel issues
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  #23  
Old January 6th, 2016, 05:07 PM
Departing90
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Originally Posted by Departing90 View Post
Take off the big pipe that runs from the cylindrical air filter housing to the intake manifold. Hold the brass butterfly open with your fingers and spray some starter fluid in tge manifold housing. Now try to star tye engine. If it "catches" it means you have fuel issues. Now disconnect tye gas line going into tye fuel rail, start tye engine and see if there is any gas comming out. If there is then the issue is the fuel pressure regulator. Thats tye vaccume looking gizmo on the fuel rail. If no gas tgen follow your nose and check gas lines, possible vaccume lock in gas tank, rdlay, fuse etc.......
Edited.........
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  #24  
Old January 6th, 2016, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by cowboy View Post
You posted that you changed out the plugs, wires, & "distributor" a year ago & that the new IACV was non-oem...

By "distributor", I would assume that you either meant "cap & rotor" or that the cap & rotor were changed out at that time? If so, was the new cap & rotor also non-oem?
Yes the new cap and rotor were replaced. I had my mechanic do that and I don't believe they are OEM but I'm not 100% sure.

------ Follow up post added January 6th, 2016 08:31 PM ------

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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
IACV has absolutely zero to do with the truck starting and idling. What it does is open and close depending on whether the truck is accelerating or decelerating to add bypass air to the engine so that it doesn't stall on decel.
The only reason for a no start when it cranks and you have spark is no fuel. I'd wager that you had enough moisture in the fuel system to stopper the fuel flow when it froze.
I agree with you and think ultimate that was the culprit here. It was crazy cold. Didn't get above 7 degrees for many hours.
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  #25  
Old January 6th, 2016, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
IACV has absolutely zero to do with the truck starting and idling. What it does is open and close depending on whether the truck is accelerating or decelerating to add bypass air to the engine so that it doesn't stall on decel.
The only reason for a no start when it cranks and you have spark is no fuel. I'd wager that you had enough moisture in the fuel system to stopper the fuel flow when it froze.
IACV has everything to do with starting and idling ... why do you think it resets when you turn the ignition off?

IF its stuck in the wrong position it will struggle to start.

If is slow moving it will struggle to control the idle.
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  #26  
Old January 6th, 2016, 09:27 PM
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When starting the IACV will be closed, therefore it has nothing to do with the start cycle unless you count being closed a condition of the engine being able to start. The cold engine wants to have a rich mixture to fire. After the engine starts a lot of things happen, one of which is the IACV will open to allow air past the (presumably closed) throttle body. The moment one steps on the skinny the IACV will close again. It will open again every time you let off the gas as you decelerate so that the engine doesn't choke off and die.
But to test it even further, go out on a cold morning and floor the gas pedal before you attempt to start the engine. Come back with your findings.
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  #27  
Old January 6th, 2016, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
When starting the IACV will be closed, therefore it has nothing to do with the start cycle unless you count being closed a condition of the engine being able to start. The cold engine wants to have a rich mixture to fire. After the engine starts a lot of things happen, one of which is the IACV will open to allow air past the (presumably closed) throttle body. The moment one steps on the skinny the IACV will close again. It will open again every time you let off the gas as you decelerate so that the engine doesn't choke off and die.
But to test it even further, go out on a cold morning and floor the gas pedal before you attempt to start the engine. Come back with your findings.
I think you just confirmed that a IACV has everything to do with successful starting and idling ...
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #28  
Old January 6th, 2016, 09:55 PM
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Question for the experts. When it rains and has moisture somewhere it struggle to start, but it will eventually starts 15-20 seconds later. The engine runs and try to press the gas pedal it will stumble sometimes. Its like there's no throttle, but it will eventually once it fully warmed up. What could be the problem? During the last 22K miles: new ignition wires, spark plugs, distributor cap & rotor, etc. all genuine parts. Also new IACV (none genuine part) within 1k miles.

Additionally, cold weather like yesterday starts right away within 5 seconds, no stumble. Wet start is my problem and still couldn't figure it out.
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  #29  
Old January 6th, 2016, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
I think you just confirmed that a IACV has everything to do with successful starting and idling ...
And the earth is flat...
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  #30  
Old January 7th, 2016, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
When starting the IACV will be closed, therefore it has nothing to do with the start cycle unless you count being closed a condition of the engine being able to start. The cold engine wants to have a rich mixture to fire.
This is why I suggested the coolant temp sensor.... it controls the fuel mixture dependent on the engine temp.
If it were IACV related it would happen on warm starts too.
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  #31  
Old January 7th, 2016, 09:34 AM
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The IACV is simple-- when it opens it allows air to bypass the(closed)throttle body butterfly valve for closed throttle body applications. It affects start up. It affects off throttle applications. it is often suspect, as many of us know, but there are several things that affect cold start. Typically the TPS sensor and coolant sensor and IACV are all on my list.

If it is a cold start only issue, the first thing I'd check is if your ECU has been upgraded to the cold start PROM chip. If it hasn't, I'd swap the chip. Cold start issues was also a known (and corrected) ECU programming issue. I haven't tried checking from rovergauge, but I believe you can. Or just crack the ECU and read the top of the chip.
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