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  #1  
Old June 29th, 2006, 12:22 AM
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wipers?

wipers stop where ever they are at when i turn the wipers off. is this right or should they return to the bottom of the windshield?
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  #2  
Old June 29th, 2006, 07:25 AM
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They should park at the bottom.
The wiper motor has a "park switch" that can go bad. Its a very simple fix, it just unclips off the wiper motor. No need to remove the motor, just the wiper cover to access it.

Sometimes it is a bigger problem (internal motor short) but in most cases it is the park switch.
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  #3  
Old June 29th, 2006, 11:33 AM
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Christian Gunther
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slapping

Is there a way to limit the swing of the wipers? It rarely rains in LA, but when it does, my wipers slap the seal on the bottom of the wind shield. Then it stops raining and I forget.

Thanks for the reminder.
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  #4  
Old June 29th, 2006, 12:14 PM
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The wiper drives (the little adaptors that your wiper arms clip onto) wear out frequently and/or loosen up. Try to move the wiper arm gently with the wipers off. Look at the relation of the wiper drive to the shaft that comes out of the bulkhead. If you see a lot of difference in movement you need to tighten and/or replace the wiper drive adaptor. If you get a lot of play try to tighten the set screw in the wiper drive. Usually though, the set screw is siezed though and you have to grind or drill it off and install a new one.
When the slop in the drive is gone it will stop slapping the windshield frame. The slapping means you have a problem.

Follow-up Post:

Or you can upgrade to later model wiper drives (but that means digging into the dash). They cured all that BS in the later Defenders.
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  #5  
Old June 29th, 2006, 01:13 PM
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new wiper drives ...

ECR :

Do you mean that you can change the wiper drives for newer model defender without any butchery ? I will be taking my dashboard appart to redo ALL of the wirring and I have the crazy wiper syndrome ( it flaps the window seal at both ends on the driver side RHD) so I might switch to newer model if it is not to costly. Do you know at how much I would be looking at.

Thanks !

Pat
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  #6  
Old June 29th, 2006, 03:30 PM
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They should work, but we haven't tried that one yet as it is less costly to just replace the little wiper drives for under 10 bucks to stop the slapping.

I'll look into it as a conversion though in the next week or so. We have a customers 2005 D110 (err.. I mean his 73 Series III 109 (you know how thes things get imported sometimes)(and don't ask me we didn't import it)) and I'll see what it would take to swap the new style in.
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  #7  
Old June 29th, 2006, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
We have a customers 2005 D110 (err.. I mean his 73 Series III 109 (you know how thes things get imported sometimes)(and don't ask me we didn't import it)) and I'll see what it would take to swap the new style in.
I know exactly what you mean, I have CrewCab 110 my self (err.. I mean a 1984 Defender) ... go figure !

Thanks for the info, I will wait a bit to order parts. If you do get the answer, thanks for posting it.

Pat
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  #8  
Old June 29th, 2006, 05:13 PM
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I'll be sure to check it out and post back. We have to do a DVD install so I'll be into the dash anyway, no worries.
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  #9  
Old June 29th, 2006, 05:26 PM
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Sweet DVD sweet !!! Drool drool !!!

I am going for a mac mini install my self with 7" sceen ... cant wait.

Pat
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  #10  
Old June 29th, 2006, 07:30 PM
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  #11  
Old June 29th, 2006, 09:09 PM
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mike-is it the plastic part that has 3 male spades for wires on one side and it takes a female plug( the male part has 5 wires)on the other side that is attached to the motor housing? do you have a part # by chance? thanks for the help! on the wiper drive set up- i have never seen it but i do have a newer style bulkhead and the holes in the bulkhead for the wiper drives to go in to are larger than the holes from my orignal bulkhead
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  #12  
Old June 29th, 2006, 11:46 PM
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its fixed thanks again mike for pointing me in the right direction to look!! i took the plastic box with the top and bottom connections on it off and dug in to it. here is kinda how it went if anyone else needs this repair-pull the top gray plug out and disconnect the 3 wires on bottom(red yellow and blue)then pull the plastic switch thing towards the drivers door(there is a little clip on the back of this,you will need).gently pry the plastic box apart(i used a small screwdriver) at the seam,but do not destroy the plastic as you need to put back together. once apart i noticed a copper tab that had broken off(this tab is moved back and forth by the plastic pin) i lined the copper tab to where it had broken off from and soldered back together.reassemble slide back on and plug every thing back in. took maybe 15min. depends on how good you are with a solder gun(i am horrible)hope this helps anyone who may need it. can this switch be ordered?
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  #13  
Old June 30th, 2006, 08:15 AM
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Glad you go it.
The park switch is part # 520160

Unplug the grey wiring plug and then gentle pull up and back on the park switch like was described above. New one slides in the resverse. Once you have the wiper cover off its a 15 second job to install a new one, little longer if you want to clean up the old one like mattdh did.

Tip: In soft top 90s water will run around the dash and usually find its way down the wiper and directly into the parking switch on the wiper motor. The obviously corrodes the connectors, so if you are in this area fill that entire plug and the top side of it with dilectric grease. This will displace the water and make the wiper motor and park switch last a lot longer. I often see the wiring plugs just completely rusted away.

Follow-up Post:

I figured the holes would be a different size, thatnk for the info, but it should be easy to drill as you can do it from the outside (use a step drill on the outside not a drill bit). The only thing I need to check is the drives themselves as the wiper motor in a new Defender is on the RH side, where on the older NAS models it is on the LH side (like a SIII).
I'll check it out.
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  #14  
Old November 17th, 2006, 03:17 AM
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Ok. So my wipers won't move unless I give them a little push. Then it is just for one wipe. I dropped it off at the local dearlership and after 10 days, I told them to just give me the parts and the truck back. The good news is I have everything I need to replace the wipers($500 later). So where do I start.
Thanks in advance.
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  #15  
Old February 25th, 2007, 02:42 PM
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Anyone know if the same issue on a 95 RRC has the same solution? And if so, is 520160 a LR part number available only through the dealer or is it available online?

Just got the RRC yesterday and the wipers just park wherever they want instead of at the bottom... good for a laugh, but not real amusing to Mrs. Joyce after the first hour. Oh and the intermittent is an intermittent intermittent setting - it moves 10 inches and stops, ad the next cycle moves it another 10 inches and so on... :

Thanks, in advance.
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  #16  
Old June 4th, 2013, 12:04 PM
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BUMP. I know it's an old tread. I already changed the wiper adaptor and the wipers still slap the seal on the bottom/side of the wind shield. I may have a problem with the wiper wheel box. Has anyone change the wiper wheel box with a newer style? If so how easy /difficult to change the wiper wheel box?

Thanks in advance.
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  #17  
Old June 4th, 2013, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover26c View Post
BUMP. I know it's an old tread. I already changed the wiper adaptor and the wipers still slap the seal on the bottom/side of the wind shield. I may have a problem with the wiper wheel box. Has anyone change the wiper wheel box with a newer style? If so how easy /difficult to change the wiper wheel box?

Thanks in advance.
I think Ryan has done this I will ping him
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  #18  
Old June 4th, 2013, 12:35 PM
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Sorry, unfortunately I haven't done this.
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  #19  
Old June 4th, 2013, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover26c View Post
BUMP. I know it's an old tread. I already changed the wiper adaptor and the wipers still slap the seal on the bottom/side of the wind shield. I may have a problem with the wiper wheel box. Has anyone change the wiper wheel box with a newer style? If so how easy /difficult to change the wiper wheel box?
Have you tried the simple fix - changing the orientation of the wipers on the splines so that they do not slap the seal?

Changing the wheel boxes involves removing the front dash/dash support, then removing the wiper splines and collar nuts, then removing the wiper motor, driveshaft, and driveshaft tube. It's not very difficult, but I'm not sure that it will fix your problem.
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  #20  
Old June 4th, 2013, 12:57 PM
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[QUOTE=sonoronos;444041]Have you tried the simple fix - changing the orientation of the wipers on the splines so that they do not slap the seal?/QUOTE]

No, I don't think changing the orientation of the wipers on the spline will make a difference. The orientation is set 'correctly'. What I don't understand is the wiper adaptor has been changed and the wipers still lap the seal on the bottom and side of the windshield. I have tightened the screws on the adaptor and still slap. So it is not the wiper wheel box, what is then?
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