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  #1  
Old November 12th, 2015, 06:34 PM
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Dan Pollock
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Wiper Question

Hey folks, I think I know the answer to this, but I'm HOPING someone has another concept.

So my wiper motors blow a fuse the moment you use them while driving, without them moving AT ALL. You only know they even tried to turn on once you check the fuse.

When I bought the truck, they didn't work. Pop in a new 15A fuse (higher than supposed to be), wipers work at idle, along with washer spray, but when i try to use them while driving, the fuses blow.

When I first got the truck, I took it for a full tuneup at a shop who seems to have half-assed everything. I explained the problem so the guy could take a look while he had the dash apart. He said he greased everything up, and they worked, but obviously never tried while driving.

So i know the motor works, i know the sprayers work, and i know the wiper assemblies aren't seized.

The question is: do I just need to take my entire dash apart, totally take apart the wiper assembly, clean, grease, and put it back together? or should i just try a 20A fuse or is that dangerous? Or should i just never drive in the rain and ponder my plight as i ride in the back of my Uber?

Side note, bc I can't for the life of me figure this out: I have a LHD 110, is the motor on the right side or the left side?
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  #2  
Old November 12th, 2015, 08:28 PM
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Over fusing the circuit could start a fire if the wires get too hot. it is pretty easy to access the motor assembly and check the ground or run a new ground for that matter. If you still have a problem then there is a park switch on the motor that may be shorting out. It is easy to replace that switch.
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Old November 12th, 2015, 08:56 PM
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I just pulled mine apart. so easy. for a LHD the motor is right under the steering column on the lower dash quarter panel. you can pull it all apart with a phillips screwdriver.

I pulled mine out because it was squealing when the wipers were on. I had to remove the 2 long screws on the actual motor housing, and put a dab of axle grease at the end where the motors shaft spins. now it's smooth as silk and quiet too.

your knucklehead may have greased the external components, but the actual gears inside the motor body may be seized and need some grease. that or you may have a couple wires frayed and shorting out.

I have AC and the whole thing took an hour tops. I thought about taking pics but the whole thing is so well documented on the net, it wasn't worth the effort. just google "land rover defender wiper motor"
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  #4  
Old November 13th, 2015, 11:39 AM
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Dan Pollock
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Ah, this is great news. I know if it's left side, it's going to be under that standalone panel (which i already have to remove for some shorted dash lights). And I bet you're right Mark that the guy just greased where the wiper motor and drive shaft meet. I'll take it out, check for grounding issues, and grease it up.

Many thanks guys, I'll let you know how it goes!
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Old November 13th, 2015, 11:59 AM
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Don't be afraid. The ONLY caution is when you take the motor assembly out, if (and you should) remove the 2 long screws at the motor endcap, there is no reason to remove the motor cylindrical housing. there's no grease in there, just electrical. Just put some grease in the endcap and put it back together. If you try and pull the motor housing off, the motor shaft with the end gear will pull out of the spring loaded electrical brushes (there are 3), then you'll need a 3rd arm to hold them all back on their springs to put it back together. and the PCB that the brushes mount to is delicate. I broke mine and had to super glue it together (worked like a charm).

if you look at the pics below, this is the version of motor I have. at the bottom you can see one of the long end screws (there are 2). you can also see the endcap of the motor housing is separate from the body. in the center of the endcap is an extrusion. that is where the end of the spinning motor cap resides and needs a blob of grease. take the cap off with everything together, blop your grease and put it back on. then go ahead and take the gear assembly cover off (on opposite side in this pic of the silver assembly), and grease the crap out of that. it's all gears in there.

you can test it all when done by hooking the plug back up with the motor assembly in your hand, and activate the wipers and watch the magic happen. if you blow the fuse then, you have a short in the wire assembly somewhere.

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Old November 13th, 2015, 12:17 PM
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Dan Pollock
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You, sir, are a great American hero.



Quick follow up question, you say to take the cap off with everything together. Do you mean that when I remove the two screws, the entire brassy colored end will come off as one unit? or are you saying that I should JUST remove the end cap, and not take anything out of the cylinder?
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Old November 13th, 2015, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPdotCOM View Post
You, sir, are a great American hero.



Quick follow up question, you say to take the cap off with everything together. Do you mean that when I remove the two screws, the entire brassy colored end will come off as one unit? or are you saying that I should JUST remove the end cap, and not take anything out of the cylinder?
JUST remove the end cap, and not take anything out of the cylinder. And it's not about taking stuff out of the cylinder, but rather taking the cylinder off the motor axle (the axle is connected to the gear assembly)

pull the cap off, and set the motor aside, with the housing right where it's at. the magnets in the motor are strong and will hold it in place. if you start pulling that cylinder off, you'll reach a point where those brushes pop off the part they ride on the shaft, and then the magnets will start grabbing on the walls of the cylinder. not a big deal to recover from, but I'm trying to shave 10 minutes of fiddling from your maintenance time.


see the gear coming out of the motor and meshed with the gears? (picture is the gear assembly with cover removed. This is the other part you grease up)

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  #8  
Old November 13th, 2015, 12:25 PM
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Dan Pollock
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Makes perfect sense!
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  #9  
Old November 13th, 2015, 01:04 PM
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The actual boxes where the wipers mount and turn also seize up and need to be regreased sometimes.
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Old November 13th, 2015, 01:17 PM
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Dan Pollock
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These are most certainly not seized, but if there's a lot of resistance, would the motor keep increasing power until the fuse tripped?
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Old November 13th, 2015, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPdotCOM View Post
These are most certainly not seized, but if there's a lot of resistance, would the motor keep increasing power until the fuse tripped?
Certainly possible.
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Old November 13th, 2015, 03:38 PM
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Resistance on the wipers could cause the fuse to blow. Once my wipers were frozen to the windshield and the fuse pooped as soon as I turned them on.
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Old December 28th, 2015, 09:39 PM
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Dan Pollock
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Hey folks, would you suggest i pull off the plastic gear and clean up back there too? If so, I cant for the life of me figure out how to get the circlip off the axle pin. The Rover's North post on this implies i should remove it:

Quote:
Remove the circlip retaining the drive link to the plastic gear as well as the circlip that retains the gear to the wiper housing.
Overall, my grease didn't look awful, it was still an orange-y color. Any grey grease you see is the new grease i've added. It spins pretty freely, but I think there is definitely a bit of increased force needed to get it spinning. I suspect it's well within the reasonably range of power of the motor, but if I have the thing out of the car, I want to get at everything possible.

Thoughts on whether to bother removing this gear and if so, how? It doesn't have the little holes of many circlips, it doesn't have the little tab that the drive link circlip had, and it doesn't go, like, 90% of the way around to make it easy to separate. Someone tell me you've got some trick for getting this bastard off!



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Old December 28th, 2015, 09:50 PM
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two flat head screw drivers one wide tip one quite small. With the large wide tip screw driver and a small hammer position the tip so its touching each of the clip ends on the open side. Give the screw driver a light tap. This will dislodge the clip and should open a gap on the back side. Simply take the small screw driver get it in that space and pry the clip off the spindle.

Blowing a fuse usually means a short and I would start with the wiper stalk not the motor, unless of course the fuse blows when you operate the switch.
If that is the case I'd unplug the motor and replace the fuse and turn the switch on and make sure you have power to the motor end of the wiring harness.

As much as I don't like the design, the motor usually isn't the problem
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Old December 28th, 2015, 09:58 PM
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Dan you don't show the important side with the gear.

I would do the following

1. Put it back together and bench test it to make sure the motor turns freely alone. I had mine go bad and even though everything was greased up it was still laboring/binding with nothing hooked up. If it's bad it will be fairly obvious. I should have a thread .... here it is: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...tor-61317.html

2. If #1 checks out, make sure the rest of the system is not binding.
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Old December 28th, 2015, 10:22 PM
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Dan Pollock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
two flat head screw drivers one wide tip one quite small. With the large wide tip screw driver and a small hammer position the tip so its touching each of the clip ends on the open side. Give the screw driver a light tap. This will dislodge the clip and should open a gap on the back side. Simply take the small screw driver get it in that space and pry the clip off the spindle.

Blowing a fuse usually means a short and I would start with the wiper stalk not the motor, unless of course the fuse blows when you operate the switch.
If that is the case I'd unplug the motor and replace the fuse and turn the switch on and make sure you have power to the motor end of the wiring harness.

As much as I don't like the design, the motor usually isn't the problem
Flathead makes perfect mechanical sense. Thanks! I doubt it's a short as the system works totally fine when I throw a new fuse in and run it while the truck isn't moving. It blows if I try to use it at speed. Would that be indicative of a short? Either way, after opening it up, I suspect the issue is at the wiper gear end of things, not the motor.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Dan you don't show the important side with the gear.

I would do the following

1. Put it back together and bench test it to make sure the motor turns freely alone. I had mine go bad and even though everything was greased up it was still laboring/binding with nothing hooked up. If it's bad it will be fairly obvious. I should have a thread .... here it is: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...tor-61317.html

2. If #1 checks out, make sure the rest of the system is not binding.
It does work on the truck, so I think you're right, it's gotta be facing resistance at the wiper end of the system. Off comes the dash top...
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