wiper arms don't start moving without a nudge - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 27th, 2011, 03:53 PM
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Charles Galpin
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wiper arms don't start moving without a nudge

If I turn on the wipers, everything works as expected except the arms don't start moving on their own. If I assist one of the arms then the normal cycle takes place, and then they sit at the home position again until assisted. The motor turns the whole time and when turning off the wipers it completes it's normal cycle and parks ok. I hear a grinding noise when it's "stuck" (maybe Ed or Jeff can describe the noise better).

Both arms seem to work well in unison, despite some play in one of the spindles so I don't believe the problem is there.

It seems like maybe someone ran the wipers with the arms frozen to the windshield and broke a tooth or two on the main gear. Does this sound plausible? I assume I need part # 517646

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product...%20gear&page=1

I undid the motor clamp and can turn it to reveal the backing plate, but I am unsure I can remove it in place. If my diagnosis is correct, what's the easiest way to get to the gear?

tia,
charles
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  #2  
Old March 27th, 2011, 04:17 PM
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kevin
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Did you disconnect the drive gear under the boot going to the wipers? Was that ok? The motor can come out and be disassembled.
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  #3  
Old March 27th, 2011, 05:20 PM
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Mike Coleman
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Charles,

Yep, you can take the back off the motor while it's still in the truck. Remove the screws, and the backing plate comes off to reveal the gear. Attached is a photo from my 110 when I was changing out the gear. In the photo the link is removed from the gear to the cable, as I was getting ready to remove it from the truck. This will let you see if something's broke.

I bought my gear from Rovah Farm when he was still located up my way. 517646 is the correct part.

Hope this helps.

Mike
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  #4  
Old March 27th, 2011, 06:56 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Thanks for the confidence boost Mike. I didn't want to open it up and have it be spring loaded and dump itself or something.

Yes, the gear has a mangled spot. Looks like Rovafarm has a good price too, thanks!

charles
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Old March 27th, 2011, 07:15 PM
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Have you tried cussing at it?
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  #6  
Old March 28th, 2011, 11:57 AM
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You're welcome Charles. Yeah, I was a bit uh...."concerned" when I took that back cover off too. I was waiting for the dreaded "sproinggg!!!", and the resultant small parts shooting all around the garage! Turns out it's a rather easy job.

When you get your bag-o-parts with the new gear, and remove the motor from the truck, you'll understand the order of all the washers, spacers and circlips. It's a bit fiddly getting the works back in the truck and reassembling it, but I found that Dan's suggestion of cussing at it helped greatly.

Give a shout if you run into an issue, as I just did this back in the summer, and the project is still relatively fresh in my mind.

Mike
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Old March 28th, 2011, 12:02 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Cool, so are you saying I need to remove the motor assembly to do the gear change? It looks like the gear would come off in place as it sits right now.

Yeah, cussing is usually involved at some point, but no reason to do so yet on this one
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Old March 28th, 2011, 02:29 PM
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Even if you could do it in place it's a bad idea. If the problem is a stripped or broken drive gear you will want to clean out the housing thoroughly and re-pack with grease. If you don't you will risk metal debris ruining the new parts.
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Old March 28th, 2011, 02:35 PM
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The teeth are plastic, and the damaged area fell out as a lump when I poked at it with an awl. It appears very clean in there otherwise, but I'll see once the parts come in case there is more to it than what I see. Without seeing them it appears I can remove a circlip and the gear will come right out. I'll take a picture at some point too, although it looks very similar to Mike's picture above.

Call me crazy but I don't see any point in undoing more with the current access I have. If I were to remove the whole assembly, I assume just undo the nut under the boot?
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  #10  
Old March 28th, 2011, 02:38 PM
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pull the cable out through the tube and clean it well and lube it with some synthetic grease. It will make it easier for the motor to turn the cable and put less of a load on the plastic gear.
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Old March 28th, 2011, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Cool, so are you saying I need to remove the motor assembly to do the gear change? It looks like the gear would come off in place as it sits right now.
I removed the whole thing just so I could put it on the workbench so I could see what I was doing. Easier than working on it while it's dangling from the cable. There's a circlip on the reverse side that locks the gear shaft in place, and I found this easier to remove on the bench.

To take the motor out to replace the gear, you'll have to remove the link from the gear to the cable (involves a small circlip, easy to pop off) with the motor in the truck. If you can get to that gear shaft circlip while the motor is hanging there, then this won't be neccessary. If you want to take the motor out, yes, you'll have to undo that nut under the boot, and then the collar that holds the cable will slide out of the motor housing.

Then you can place the motor on your workbench so it's easy to work on/clean out/regrease.

Mike
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  #12  
Old April 5th, 2011, 08:39 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Well, my replacement gear arrived the other day so I got this fixed today. In my case there was no circlip on the gear shaft (I guess someone was in there before me) so I just replaced it with the motor in the truck. There was plenty of clearance and the only thing I could have wanted was better light. Not hard at all. The pictures turned out blury but I took one of the empty housing after removing the gear, after the new gear was in a greased, and then one showing the worn spot on the good.

Works great now. I also replaced one of the ends that the wiper attaches to as it was loose and the allen key screw was stripped.

Thanks to all for the advice.
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  #13  
Old April 6th, 2011, 01:39 AM
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That missing circlip could be the culprit in the gear damage. As I recall it's the only thing that keeps the gears in line.
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  #14  
Old April 6th, 2011, 03:59 AM
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Nice! Good to hear this worked out for you without any problems. Hmm....that gear really is screwed up! It's hard to see in the photo, but did the teeth break off, or are they ground down? They almost look melted in the photo.

I think Tony is right. That shaft circlip might be neccessary. Not that there is a whole lot of room inside that housing for any play, but that circlip keeps the shaft from moving up and down in the bushing. I forget, but did the kit come with a new clip?

It's probably nice to have functioning wipers again. Rain-X only goes so far......

Mike
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Old April 6th, 2011, 07:50 AM
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Charles Galpin
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I don't know when the circlip went missing but could very well be why it failed. The missing teath were in a small melted blob when I opened it and fell out when I poked at it. I think the wipers were left on in this state for an extended period at one point (and I am guessing others) and the heat probably built up. The damage was such that it was past the switch turning the motor on, but it could not finish the cycle and get back to close the switch, and unless you gave one of the arms a nudge it would just keep spinning away at that spot

But yes the replacement came with a circlip and a couple of spring washers and spacers and I installed it.
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