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  #21  
Old May 2nd, 2009, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnp
the places I've looked so far would put the total (for just the two copper leads) at $150
I don't know where you're looking, but 25 feet of 1/0 should cost well under $100.
Just got some #1 a few weeks ago, I think it was about $1.75/ft at the local welding shop.


Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Wires depend on the cost of copper. 1 gauge is fine, 1/0 is overkill IMHO
It's only overkill if you don't care about excessive volt drop exactly when you you need the highest voltage to your winch you can get.
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  #22  
Old May 4th, 2009, 07:28 PM
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Thanks for the suggestion about the welding supply shops. I'll check there. I haven't measured yet, but I'd like to hear the voices of experience to back me up: are you folks finding that the leads should be about 12.5' each (I have an ARB bumper)? For some reason, that seems longer than they'd need to be, but again, I haven't measured yet.....any confirmation you could offer would be helpful. Thanks again.
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  #23  
Old May 5th, 2009, 08:03 AM
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Tom Rowe
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Get a piece of rope and run it the route you're going to run the cable and measure it. There's your length.

1/0 - 25' <$50
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  #24  
Old May 5th, 2009, 09:24 AM
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good idea though it should go without saying to order extra to be safe.

I bought the 1/0 from here:

https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/

showed up within a day or two and I also ordered the lugs, and a cheesy crimper.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Antichrist
Get a piece of rope and run it the route you're going to run the cable and measure it. There's your length.

1/0 - 25' <$50
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  #25  
Old May 5th, 2009, 10:43 AM
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12.5' seems long, but I never measured.

I used 2/0 welding cable.

The X9 specs 420 Amps maximum

This is voltage loss and percentage of 12 V for a 20 foot run.
OOOO 0.4116 3%
OOO 0.51912 4%
OO 0.65436 5%
0 0.82572 7%
1 1.04076 9%
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  #26  
Old September 5th, 2009, 12:12 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Sorry to change the subject a little bit. I have an X9 winch which needs repair. It winds up the cable but it doesn't unwind it. I was told I need a new Solenoid so I ordered one today. I've never worked on a winch before. How difficult is it to swap out one of the Solenoids? How do I know which one is damaged? Tips, Suggestions?

Thanks!
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  #27  
Old September 5th, 2009, 04:13 AM
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Robert Lynch
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related question..
can you use a battery disconnect on the 1/0 to kill pwr to the winch? if so which one?
abou tready to order cable, bumper. winch, etc....
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  #28  
Old September 5th, 2009, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90
12.5' seems long, but I never measured.

I used 2/0 welding cable.

The X9 specs 420 Amps maximum
Since you're not likely to run it at maximum draw for long, you're ok if it's a 12.5' run. But you're close. 0.47v drop, which is a hair under the max drop (0.5v) that's acceptable.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rlynch356
related question..
can you use a battery disconnect on the 1/0 to kill pwr to the winch? if so which one?
abou tready to order cable, bumper. winch, etc....
Yes. But you want to be careful of the rating of what you use. Battery disconnects are generally not rated very high for continuous duty, or even very long duty cycle. I use a 2000 amp one that works out to 500 amp capacity for longer than I'll run the winch at any given time.
Using too low a rating will introduce voltage drop, which you don't want.
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  #29  
Old December 14th, 2009, 07:45 PM
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Guys, reviving this thread as I am about to wire up a winch for the first time and I'm a bit concerned about the different gauge wire people are comfortable with.

I am not an electrical engineer, but can read at a 5th grade level, and what I have read says to account for the round trip length in the calculations, which means a 20-25' length, NOT 10-12.5'. If you plug this into a voltage drop calculator like

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

And consider that my winch specs say it will easily draw 300 - 400 amps, Using 4/0 wire you are at 0.6V drop already which is over the 0.5V acceptable drop already. If I used 1/0 as planned, I have 1.2V drop at 300 and 1.6V at 400!

Even if you disagree on the round trip being double and use 12.5', 1/0 still has a 0.7v drop at 300A!

So can someone explain why I shouldn't be scared by this and go 4/0?

For complete disclosure, this is to wire a husky 8 to the normal battery location. I have a Blue Sea systems battery switch (9001e) that I plan on using and it's rated at 350A continuous, 600A for 5 min and takes up to 4/0 wire so I believe it it up for the task. I would also like to use anderson connectors (350A) out at the winch so I can disconnect the winch for safety as well as plug in jumper cables, but I'm now thinking I'd be better off wiring the battery switch to isolate the winch there to avoid yet another source of voltage drop and either skip the anderson connectors completely or add them as an additional plug to the side of the battery box.

Any opinions welcome and thanks in advance.

charles
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  #30  
Old December 14th, 2009, 10:25 PM
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I think the run from the battery to the pos terminal was 11 feet with 1.0. This I ran up the right side frame rail in a piece of 3/4 heater hose (acted as a conduit per Pendy's recomendation). I grounded to the frame which works fine for pulling most of you guys out but Warn says run the neg back to the battery.
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  #31  
Old December 15th, 2009, 12:09 AM
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I always run a cabled ground. I don't think you have to double the voltage drop. wire size is a trade off between performance, longevity, and the inconvenience of running 4/0. I don't think it'll even fit in the battery box. 2/0 might be a bit better. I put in 1/0 and have used it in anger. Also I'm not sure it is really that long. looking back at the invoice i bought 15 feet each of black and red. i have 5 feet of each left over. my cables go up the left frame rail.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maryland 110
I think the run from the battery to the pos terminal was 11 feet with 1.0. This I ran up the right side frame rail in a piece of 3/4 heater hose (acted as a conduit per Pendy's recomendation). I grounded to the frame which works fine for pulling most of you guys out but Warn says run the neg back to the battery.
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  #32  
Old December 15th, 2009, 09:15 AM
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IVE FOUND THESE GUYS ARE A GREAT PRICE AND QUICK SHIPPING YOU CAN GET LUGS FROM THEM AND SOLDER PLUGS TOO

http://www.delcity.net/store/Welding...s/p_185187.a_1
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  #33  
Old December 16th, 2009, 05:15 PM
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I decided to go with 2/0. I'll buy the wire locally but ordered ends, heat shrink etc online.

thanks,
charles
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  #34  
Old December 16th, 2009, 07:39 PM
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I don't know how into overkill you are, but as for me, I treat an off road vehicle like a boat. As much as possible I use marine grade wiring and terminals as well as wiring protocols.
First off, let's discuss the ground. I dunno what Winch Guy is talking about burned up brake lines but whoever owned that truck had some seriously fu*ked up wiring that was likely not related to winch installation. A frame ground is just fine and dandy as long as you are sure the connections are clean and tight. My preference is for a separate ground bus bar with a cover. These have 5/16ths tinned studs and can carry 600 amps. You can put several grounds on this type of bar and the cover keeps tools and stuff from causing arcs.
I also prefer marine grade cables. These are made of stranded tinned copper with oil and fuel resistant cover that also have a fire rating. A line as small as grade 8 will carry the loads of a winch motor but the resistance is pretty high. I wouldn't use anything smaller than a 0 for winch cables even though you probably don't need it. Again, overkill.
In order to keep moisture out of the cable strands, I use a tinned copper lug that is crimped (never use solder) and covered with an adhesive lined shrink tube to seal up the gap between the cable cover and the lug. This assembly will withstand dunk after dunk and will not get water in it. Finally I use proper sized boots to cover the connector lug on both the ends of the cable to protect from accidental contact. I spray all connections with either Boeshield or Deka Battery Terminal Spray.

Genuinedealz.com is my choice for on line purchasing. They have always had my order on my door within two days and when I once had a problem they made it right the next day.
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  #35  
Old December 17th, 2009, 12:41 PM
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I've been using the max 0.5v drop calculated on the load to supply run. Based on information in this:
http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Ele.../dp/0895862387

Again, I'd really keep it under 0.5v. For lights, it's doesn't matter than much, as they'll just be dim. For motors the more you run it under the designed voltage the more it shortens the life span.
In figuring the wire size, you also need to ask yourself if you want to base it on the voltage with engine running, or with the engine off, as with it running you're at a higher voltage so a higher drop will still keep you under a 0.5v drop.
A motor drawing 400amps at 12v will only be drawing 355 at 13.5v.
I always go with worst case though. Assuming 15' 2/0 is slightly on the small side for running off just the battery, but I expect you won't be doing that often so you should be good. If you find yourself in a long pull with the engine not running, just let the motor cool more than you normally would.

I can only assume that winch mfg are basing rated winch draw at 12v, not 13.5, but I have no idea really.
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  #36  
Old December 17th, 2009, 12:59 PM
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See my numbers above for a 20 foot run. I'm sure it is less than 20' though.... I'm guessing more like 15'.

2/0 welding cable is easy enough to run and very well suited to the application. Don't use automotive cable as it is way too stiff to work with. Make sure you have properly crimped and sealed lugs. Make sure all connections are clean and secure. These are the places you are more likely to have a problem.
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  #37  
Old April 8th, 2010, 01:28 AM
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Reviving this thread for a question about cable routing.

How are you guys fixing your cables to the frame rail? Long zip ties or perhaps something better?

I have my cables in a 1" wire loom.
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  #38  
Old April 8th, 2010, 08:14 AM
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Cable clamps or zip-ties, depending on where it is.
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Tom Rowe
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Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
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62 88 Regular
67 109 6cyl NADA x2
74 Lightweight - The Antichrist
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97 D1 Automatic
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  #39  
Old October 25th, 2010, 10:46 PM
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This thread was great help in purchasing and installing longer 2/0 cable for my winch.
But where are you getting your (red) shrink wrap? I haven't been able to find any locally.
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  #40  
Old October 25th, 2010, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cred
This thread was great help in purchasing and installing longer 2/0 cable for my winch.
But where are you getting your (red) shrink wrap? I haven't been able to find any locally.
did you try eBay ?
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